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 Post subject: OLD NAVY: ORM ... Off Road Mod ...
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:09 pm 
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ORM is short for OFF ROAD MODIFICATION. The orm consists of unplugging the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. The MAF is between the turbo and the air box. By disconnecting you disable the EGR. By turning off the EGR you improve your fuel milage and power greatly. Also you set off the check engine light (CEL) by disconnecting the MAF. It is called the ORM because it is not necessarily a legal modification unless you are driving offroad.

As you're looking at the connector, pull the red clip back towards you (slides towards the wires). You should be able to do it w/ just your fingernail, but a coin or something similar may help. Once the red tab is extended, mash down on the tap and the connector just pulls/slides off.

The ORM increases the MPG's, smooths out the engine and make it more responsive while reducing all the soot you would deposit on the trees. IF ONLY USING OFF ROAD the oil will clear up and not be soot black after a couple of oil changes.


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 Post subject: jumper
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 2:31 pm 
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are there any pins on the plug that can be jumper'd to prevent a CELL

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:18 pm 
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Short answer NO.

There are three solutions to the CEL besides living with it.

>1 - Disconnect the MAF after vehicle startup.

>2 - Turn off the CEL with an OBDII code reader. You can drive into your friendly auto parts and do it but that gets old so some have purchased them. There is one from Harbor Freight that some have used for around $40 and many are using the ScanGaugeII which has some other neat features (some do not work on the CRD). I am sure there are other scan tools that also work. The ScanGaugeII lists for $169.95 shipped but I arranged a group buy for $149.95 shipped from the manufacture. The information for the group buy can be found here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=23817

>3 - TurboTim did a ton of sleuthing and designed a circuit that makes the CRD think the MAF is there at startup. LocoCRD put all the pieces together in kit form for $75 and UFO is assembling the kits for those who don't want to do their own for around $25. It is a great project but it does require that you cut and splice into the cable harness. There will soon be a second, and likely last, buy if you want to get on the list. You can find information on that buy here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=22498 If you miss the group buy TurboTim has documented the project and the parts could be put together by you independantly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:03 pm 
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Only problem with the constant MAF CEL, which is harmless, is you will never know when a real problem is anouncing itself, which could be very harmful, even fatal to your little Jeep Diesel - I sincerely suggest purchasing and installing the ORM kit - clean your MAP sensor, if further persuasion is required.

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 Post subject: What would happen if EGR was blocked?
PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:34 pm 
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In the days when I worked in close proximity to my tool box and had a repair shop, EGR valves were strictly mechanical devices. The Liberty CRD EGR is Solenoid controlled instead of Vacuum. Is there any reason a thin copper, brass, or stainless steel disc can not be placed between the exhaust inlet and the EGR valve? This seams more simple than doing major wiring harness surgery so that electronic components can lie to the ECM to shut off the EGR.

Steve :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:18 pm 
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Won’t work. The reason is you need the SEGR electronics. Read the threads on how the SEGR works, but here is a quick review.
When the computer decides that it is time to put some EGR smoke into the engine, it fires the EGR valve. (The computer watches the electrical current into the valve to make sure that it is there). The computer also knows that a diesel doesn’t have any vacuum to suck it in, so it has to make some. It does this by firing the AFC valve to close or choke part of the air flow into the engine. (The computer also watches this valve electrically too). Now for the reason blocking off the EGR won’t work. When the computer fires both valves, it expects (and there will be) less air flow into the engine. The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor reports less air flowing into the engine. How much less depends on how long the EGR is told to fire. If there is no reduction in air flow (such as a blocked EGR), then the computer figures that something is plugged up and we need to set the CEL light.
No way around it, you just going to have to fool it electrically. Now remember that the EGR gets disconnected so it never opens (same as a block off plate only a lot easier).

The SEGR keeps the computer happy while it thinks it is EGRing the engine, but you will like the kick in the pants as the performance increases. The computer is happy, your happy, and the CEL is off and happy.

So hopefully you can see why we are where we are today…


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 Post subject: I got an idea!
PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 3:10 pm 
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Hey! I got an idea ! - if it really works to unplug the MAF after startup - which I haven't tried yet but I will - I'm new to all this - then why not just put a switch in the cab? You know - an extension spliced into the MAF wiring - to a switch under your dash or something? Eh? that should work theoretically? Just turn off the MAF with the switch once you started the car.
Now does it need to be completely disconnected - with more than one wire interupted - or just one wire - and which one? We'll see. Could be cheaper than an SGII or SEGR. Though I'm probably going to just get one anyway.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:12 pm 
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First - Welcome to LOST
Second -if I remember correctly it doesn't work that way.
- The computer checks all sensors on startup - which is why you can unplug it after start and the CEL won't come on - but then it also cycles through to monitor that the feedback is within the limits it expects - it they're not it sets a flag and the CEL comes on at the next startup - and stays on for 3 engine cycles. - It was explained in the original thread.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=13299&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=orm&start=0

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:34 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
Only problem with the constant MAF CEL, which is harmless, is you will never know when a real problem is anouncing itself, which could be very harmful, even fatal to your little Jeep Diesel - I sincerely suggest purchasing and installing the ORM kit - clean your MAP sensor, if further persuasion is required.


Which is it that you suggest buying?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:35 pm 
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Is the ORM worse for the environment?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:16 pm 
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The correct way to fix this issue is to install an oil trap like the provent or the many home made examples of oil scrubbers that can be found on this and VW TDI boards. The purpose of the ORM is to temporarily prevent the problem of oil vapor being vented into the turbo, charge pipe and intercooler until you can find and install an oil scrubber. The ORM vents the ccv into the atmosphere rather than venting it back into the intake.

If you don't do either, oil can collect in the hoses and intercooler that has to be cleaned out, worse case it can cause failure of the turbo hoses, reduced efficiency of the intercooler and cause premature failure of the turbo.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:05 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
s. The purpose of the ORM is to temporarily prevent the problem of oil vapor being vented into the turbo, charge pipe and intercooler until you can find and install an oil scrubber. The ORM vents the ccv into the atmosphere rather than venting it back into the intake.

If you don't do either, oil can collect in the hoses and intercooler that has to be cleaned out, worse case it can cause failure of the turbo hoses, reduced efficiency of the intercooler and cause premature failure of the turbo.


Ummmm... I think you meant EHM. The ORM has nothing to do with oil vapor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:25 pm 
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Pablo wrote:
bugnout wrote:
s. The purpose of the ORM is to temporarily prevent the problem of oil vapor being vented into the turbo, charge pipe and intercooler until you can find and install an oil scrubber. The ORM vents the ccv into the atmosphere rather than venting it back into the intake.

If you don't do either, oil can collect in the hoses and intercooler that has to be cleaned out, worse case it can cause failure of the turbo hoses, reduced efficiency of the intercooler and cause premature failure of the turbo.


Ummmm... I think you meant EHM. The ORM has nothing to do with oil vapor.


:oops: :oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:54 pm 
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Things are becoming clearer but back to my question. If the ORM "increases the MPG's, smooths out the engine and make it more responsive while reducing all the soot you would deposit on the trees", then why is the MAF there in the 1st place? Are there any negatives to say the environment besides the CEL?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:30 pm 
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Congressional mandate...................

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GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Stealership Techs Warning
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:10 pm 
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I recently had my tranny filters and service done at the local stealership
and I had a chance to talk to the tech - he claimed the ORM would increase
some operating temp somewhere - I unfortunately can't recall which -
and not that it would be too detrimental - but that it wasn't necessarily
a good thing. I'm not sure what to make of that. He seemed honest
and forthcoming enough.

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unplugged fuel heater.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:12 pm 
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Somebody got it backwards: ORM (and SEGR) reduces intake temps by eliminating Recirculated Exhaust Gasses (EGR) - exhaust gasses are hot (~650degF avg), even when those temps are somewhat cooled by engine coolant (~180degF) prior to being dumped into the intake plenum - shut off ECM control of the EGR valve and you shut off the source of higher temps into the intake manifold = cooler intake temps, usually ~20deg above ambient after passing thru the charge air cooler - plus you get 100% pure atmosphere into the cylinders, which, being denser and purer = more power

Gassers (patooie!) employ an O2 sensor(s) in the exhaust path(s) to measure and regulate EGR - an O2 sensor in a Diesel engine would soon be buried in soot (remember the mess on yer MAP sensor?), so educated guesses (charts and matrices = maps) or some other method must be used in order to meet emissions requirements: enter the Mass Air Flow Sensor - placed directly in the intake path, it's output is directly related to the flow of atmosphere into the engine - if a 'nuther source of intake flow suddenly appears, such as a duct or gasket leak, the MAF will immediately respond with a lower reading, as air supply duties are now being shared by the leak - now, consider the EGR as a congressionally mandated intake leak: as the EGR valve opens, MAF output drops, and voila! = we have (wanted, or not!) a method of measuring EGR input (probably or not!, if the popularity of the ORM and SEGR is used as an indication of owner satisfaction)

And there, as tole by yer fav nut, ya have it in a nutshell...................

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Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Ah ha
PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:47 am 
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That does make more sense - that it would be cooler
not putting in the exhaust gases. Thanks.
I can't imagine why the DC tech would want to
put out any misinformation regarding the ORM.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 2:05 pm 
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Congressional mandate..................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Re: OLD NAVY: ORM ... Off Road Mod ...
PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:33 pm 
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DarbyWalters wrote:
The ORM increases the MPG's, smooths out the engine and make it more responsive while reducing all the soot you would deposit on the trees. IF ONLY USING OFF ROAD the oil will clear up and not be soot black after a couple of oil changes.



I'm a bit confused. Wouldn't the ORM INCREASE soot deposit on the trees? I mean, didn't Jeep do engineer it this way to be more environmentally friendly at the expense of the motor?

Thanks in advance for clearing this up.


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