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 Post subject: Changing the Rear Differential Oil
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:24 pm 
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It's time to face facts. Every once in a while your rear end needs a little help. Whether you drive a rear-, front-, or all-wheel-drive vehicle, the wheels spin by way of a differential. The gears inside the differential distribute engine energy to the axles and the axles spin the wheels the right way at the right speed when you hit the gas.

Another important function of the differential is to allow the drive wheels to spin at different rates as you round a corner. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel as it travels a shorter distance around the bend. From this difference, the differential gets its name. The gears inside the differential slide around coated in a slippery film of oil. Just like engine oil, the differential oil must be changed at regular intervals. Not quite as often, but at regular intervals nonetheless. Without the lubricating properties of this high-pressure gear oil, friction will quickly wear through the special layer of hardened steel on the gear teeth, and the gears can fail prematurely.


You will need 3 quarts (4.4 pints) of 75W-140 Synthetic gear oil. You could use RTV however to save a lot of trouble use a gasket. You can order a gasket from www.lubelocker.com and order the Chrysler 8.25 gasket

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:55 am 
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Be sure to see if you require an additive if you have a LSD/Trac-Loc rear end. Always check your owners manual for factory specs.

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 Post subject: Re: Changing the Rear Differential Oil
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:26 pm 
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skywarn wrote:
It's time to face facts. Every once in a while your rear end needs a little help. Whether you drive a rear-, front-, or all-wheel-drive vehicle, the wheels spin by way of a differential. The gears inside the differential distribute engine energy to the axles and the axles spin the wheels the right way at the right speed when you hit the gas.

Another important function of the differential is to allow the drive wheels to spin at different rates as you round a corner. The inside wheel spins slower than the outside wheel as it travels a shorter distance around the bend. From this difference, the differential gets its name. The gears inside the differential slide around coated in a slippery film of oil. Just like engine oil, the differential oil must be changed at regular intervals. Not quite as often, but at regular intervals nonetheless. Without the lubricating properties of this high-pressure gear oil, friction will quickly wear through the special layer of hardened steel on the gear teeth, and the gears can fail prematurely.


You will need 3 quarts (4.4 pints) of 75W-140 Synthetic gear oil. You could use RTV however to save a lot of trouble use a gasket. You can order a gasket from www.lubelocker.com and order the Chrysler 8.25 gasket


so what is the pro/cons versus gasket and RTV ?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 1:37 am 
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nobody??????

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 9:03 am 
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Lubelocker Gasket....simple, no wait, hard to mess up.. maybe a bit pricey but reasonable.

RTV.....Uhm...cheaper.... works fine, but you can screw it up.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Once I changed it once and knew I had good high quality stuff in there, I just use a hand pump to pump it out. I get about 97% of it out without much fuss - and then I don't need to replace the gasket.

I get probably another 1% out by working with the hose...

But I wanted to make sure I had good high quality so that the 2% that stays in is fairly decent...

Probably every three or so I would want to drop it and do a complete change. But getting 98% with high quality lube should be good enough for three changes in a row...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:46 pm 
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I just take the plug out. :wink:

click for larger view...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:06 pm 
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Goglio704 wrote:
I just take the plug out. :wink:

click for larger view...

Image



Dude that is awesome!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:08 am 
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Goglio704 wrote:
I just take the plug out. :wink:

click for larger view...

Image


ok so did you just drill a hole and then get a bolt and washer ???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 1:21 am 
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Drilled in 3 or 4 stages starting at 3/16" and working up.
Tapped to 1/2" 20.
Installed 1/2" magnetic drain plug with copper sealing washer.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:31 am 
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The drain plug is great. I was looking at getting a cover with a plug from Ruff Stuff http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... p-152.html but if I can tap my the differential without spending the 115.00 then I will. Did you take the cover off when you drilled it to clean the shavings?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:07 pm 
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Yes, the cover was removed. Let me caution you also, if you don't get this drilled and tapped straight, you will likely wind up pulling your rear axle and carrying it to a machine shop to fix the uh oh. I have friends who would have helped me had mine gone wrong. My point is that $115 for a cover could be a bargain. Bear in mind too that I still have a paper thin cover instead of the nice heavy plate. If you wheel hard, you might be better off with the cover.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:42 pm 
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Don't mean to be a smart *ss but this cover won't do you any good. If you fit it so the plug faces down how are you gonna fill the diff? Through the breather hole?

Image

Just a thought: take of the original cover. Drill a hole in the lower part. Weld a big nut on it. Or in it if there's enough room.

Fit a drain plug. Done.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 4:05 pm 
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http://www.barnes4wd.com/chrysler-diffe ... -2177.html


How about this one?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 5:01 pm 
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Image

Here it is pictured.
Any good ????????????
Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 8:20 am 
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tonycrd

The one you pictured above is available with the drain plug
for 5 bucks more. Saw it on Ebay. Rough stuff makes it.
Steve

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 Post subject: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/chrysler-825-375
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:45 pm 
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Look under extras for the 5.00 drain plug option. And you don't sound like a "smart" *ss to me. -------------------Just joking with you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:51 pm 
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I changed the fluid today. I found a gasket at Auto Zone for three dollars and change. It has ROL Gaskets printed on the package. FP- RDS55047.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 29, 2008 5:07 pm 
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instructions from the package for reference:

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Changing the Rear Differential Oil
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:18 pm 
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I know this is a rookie question.. but how do you refill the diff? Is that rubber thing I see a fill plug?

If so.. the procedure is?: remove the cover to drain the fluid.. then reinstall.. then remove the rubber plug and fill?

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