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 Post subject: Resistor will get hot
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:09 am 
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The resistor will get hot and could be a hazard under the hood. I would hate to melt any wires.
Unless some jerk in the federal or state legislature passes a law making it a crime to drive with a check engine light on, I would put up with the light until the part comes in.

Steve :idea:

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:28 am 
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Its in the low 30's whenever the vehicle is driven to/from work each day. Its a temp fix until replacement parts arrive.


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 Post subject: Re: Resistor will get hot
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 9:28 am 
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Location: Saylorsburg, PA
warp2diesel wrote:
The resistor will get hot and could be a hazard under the hood. I would hate to melt any wires.
Unless some jerk in the federal or state legislature passes a law making it a crime to drive with a check engine light on, I would put up with the light until the part comes in.

Steve :idea:


What's the voltage across the sensor, 12vdc? At 2200ohms, the resistor is well within its power rating.

- Chris

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2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:27 pm 
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The FTS, and most other sensors, operates off ECM precision-regulated current-limited +5v sensor supply source - simple ohms law calc would seem to indicate little possibility of that 2200ohm resistor warming, or heating, or over-heating, 'n es ci pa?

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Didnt mean to get out of control in earlier posts but i
PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:34 pm 
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spent enough time and effort to get mine fixed and couldnt take it lol. Right now dealer will change something out for $50 out of my pocket i hope its not just the heater plug. The total bill was over 200 so i hope its mostly new parts included. $50 i can deal with, what is a lift pump people have talked about?


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 Post subject: Re: Didnt mean to get out of control in earlier posts but i
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:32 pm 
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CRDLIBERTY wrote:
spent enough time and effort to get mine fixed and couldnt take it lol. Right now dealer will change something out for $50 out of my pocket i hope its not just the heater plug. The total bill was over 200 so i hope its mostly new parts included. $50 i can deal with, what is a lift pump people have talked about?


The going price on the complete new filter head, including a new filter is around $150. Sounds like that's what they did for you.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:21 pm 
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The 2200 ohm 1/2 watt resister did the trick until I got my Omega temp sensor installed into my new Racor filter.

This thread title should be renamed "Throw away OEM filter assembly and install a Racor". I should have done this mod 35,999 miles ago!A


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 11:06 am 
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Location: Lake Orion MI
I didn't have time to read the whole 14 pages but here's how I disabled mine.

Open the power distribution box under the hood (it's front driver side with fuses & relays in it).
Find the relay marked Fuel Heater. Remove it.
Notice that the cover will come off if you genly pry it over the catches on the two long sides.
Find the part that moves (it's called the Armature) it's a copper sheet with a dot on the end.
Remove it.
Replace cover.
Replace relay.

Buy a replacement mini ISO relay if you want to reactivate it.

I also did this for my viscous heater to save fuel during the 9 months of the year I don't really need the extra heat.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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 Post subject: fuel filter head leak
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:16 am 
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Im still reading through this thread, hard work.

My filter head has started seeping around the heater plug, its a 2007 KJ CRD. I wondered what was going on the filter head was looking oily, WTF.

Have unplugged it for now.

It just occurred to me and I may have missed something like this in reading done so far or have yet to read it. Whilst the fuel leak in the first instance is an issue, can I suggest that the proximity of the filter head is more than just a problem for air build up. I mean its mounted directlly over that EGR and piping, quite hot I bet and now that emissions control seems to increase the use of the EGR its probably hotter, and if that EGR valve was actually not closing properly.

What if fuel dripped onto it, or under some circumstance spirted onto it. I know if I wanted to start a fire with fuel Id put it next to something thats really hot......

Hmmmmm.......

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KJ CRD 2.8L AUTO 2007
BP ULTIMATE
Extra Transmission cooler
2.5 inch full flow muffler.
Fuel Heater Disconnected.
In tank lift pump :)
Provent :)
Boost, EGT and Trans temp.
Engine Bay Vents soon.
Transgo Valve body (no resistor) :)
Hemi TC P04736587AC replaced (original TC P04736582AD in '07 KJ CRD) - Nice -:) :) :)

If im not here Im there....


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 Post subject: Don't worry about fire...
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:07 am 
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...the smell of leaking fuel is enough of a pain. Members who are fire fighters can give you all of the specifics, but from a gear head perspective, you will have a mess to clean up. If you have warranty left, have the dealer replace it. If you don't pick one of the choices in the threads and take action.
GMCTD has made a bunch of posts.




Steve

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:27 am 
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Fortunately, Diesel fuel is not volatile enuff to easily flame up - look at the damage to Goglio's heater puck, and no resultant flames - Diesel fuel in this engine has to be misted and sprayed across a fully glowing @ 1125degF glow plug to start a flame, assisted by cylinder temps of ~1600degF - not much to worry about in the KJ CRD engine bay, unless the turbine snail is fully glowing under heavy load - the fuel leak at the puck is really more wasteful, than hazardous - any leak in a gasoline system would have been recalled long B4 now due to the extreme volatility of that fuel - volatility means ease of vaporization, and all fuels ignite easily in the vapor stage, some (patooie) way more easily than others..............

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:41 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
So then, off to get a new one, under warranty. Then replace later.

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KJ CRD 2.8L AUTO 2007
BP ULTIMATE
Extra Transmission cooler
2.5 inch full flow muffler.
Fuel Heater Disconnected.
In tank lift pump :)
Provent :)
Boost, EGT and Trans temp.
Engine Bay Vents soon.
Transgo Valve body (no resistor) :)
Hemi TC P04736587AC replaced (original TC P04736582AD in '07 KJ CRD) - Nice -:) :) :)

If im not here Im there....


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 Post subject: So, what's up?
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 6:43 pm 
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Location: Provo, Utah
So, I've done the usual easy mods and now see this heater fire fiasco thingy.
So, now I've unplugged it. Luckily, it only looks a little brown around
the black wires hole. No melty damage or leaking of fuel - yet.
This might be a newer unit, put in recently - as it looks too clean.
I just got this vehicle about a week or two ago. Love it though.
And all these little problems just make it more of a challenge.
SO, what IS the latest? Swap the system? Leave it in place?
Put in a centrifugal inline pump? Racor 245? I had a little air in the
system, bled it, then ran it a while while I was playing with the
OBDII, then checked it again when I unplugged the heater element,
and put some little condoms on the plug and socket, and dang if
there wasn't some more air in there already. Not much, but a puff
of air is enough. I think I need the pump.
Should I file a report with the NHTSA ?
I suppose I should.

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2006 CRD 59k miles,
EHM, ORM, Fumoto,
unplugged fuel heater.


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 Post subject: Re: So, what's up?
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:08 pm 
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Doctor B wrote:
So, I've done the usual easy mods and now see this heater fire fiasco thingy.

Should I file a report with the NHTSA ?
I suppose I should.


Sure can't hurt but as you know it was swept under the rug once already :roll:

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)


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 Post subject: I'm gonna do it anyway, what the hay.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:12 pm 
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Here's my text to the NHTSA:

"...2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
Fuel filter separator heater element evidence of pending failure and leak and fire hazard; browning of plug contact and air in system due to some sort of slow leak. This makes element overheat in aformentioned air - as it was designed to be submersed in fuel - and will melt thermoplastic plug element fitting, causing leak, which will dribble onto hot areas below - if gasses not ignited by heating element first in air/fuel space created by air leak - and potentially cause fire and death...."

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2006 CRD 59k miles,
EHM, ORM, Fumoto,
unplugged fuel heater.


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 Post subject: Re: I'm gonna do it anyway, what the hay.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:36 pm 
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Doctor B wrote:
Here's my text to the NHTSA:

"...2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
Fuel filter separator heater element evidence of pending failure and leak and fire hazard; browning of plug contact and air in system due to some sort of slow leak. This makes element overheat in aformentioned air - as it was designed to be submersed in fuel - and will melt thermoplastic plug element fitting, causing leak, which will dribble onto hot areas below - if gasses not ignited by heating element first in air/fuel space created by air leak - and potentially cause fire and death...."


Good Luck, Airline Pilots are still P.O.ed at them for blaming the Pilots for the crash of the Airbus A-320 that had it tail ripped off over Queens, NY back in 2001. Lawyers are cheaper than the cost of out fitting 11,000 CRDs with the lift pump. Lets say it would cost Chrysler $500 a CRD to fix the problem, $500 X 11,000= $5,500,000, $5.5 mil will pay the salary of a $120,000 a year Lawyer for 45.8 years, by then we will all be putting out a bunch of CO2 even if we are not breathing. When they can pass the buck onto a vendor, they go after the vendor and get them to settle.
How many Corvairs ever got the roll bar kit Ralph Nader wanted? None!! Did some Corvair owners install roll bar kits, Yep! Just like we installed Lift Pumps. Since no one has gotten burned to death yet, your case will most likely get shot down.


Steve

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: I'm gonna do it anyway, what the hay.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Dugg for:
Doctor B wrote:
and potentially cause fire and death...."


Oh, wait wrong forum (http://www.digg.com) ... :lol:

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:07 pm 
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I thought this was a sticky
We have fixes on the CRD tech - but we don't have the original problem
so can a Mod either sticky this - or put it over in Tech
That way the new CRD owners will understand - why we push for the Racor/ New fuel head?

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stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:27 am 
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Posts: 48
Location: BC Canada
I agree with ATXKJ (thanks again for the link to this thread). I am one of the new owners he is talking. Actually I have had my CRD for almost 2 years and have been living with the painful/stressful symptoms of the leak filter head and air in my lines for about 6 months now. Thanks to this great forum I was able to figure out the problem.

This seems like such a common problem that it should stay at the top of the list (like a sticky) so it is one of the first this they find. I have a feeling there is alot of CRD owners out there with this problem who are either afraid to go to their dealers because of their lack of experience on these CRDs or because they have no warranty.

The symptoms and codes I was having from this problem originally made me think the TC was locking up. So when I first got to this forum and saw all the talk about Suncoast TC's, transgo shift kits, tranny cooler filter leaks, and tranny pumps, I thought I would be pulling my tranny for sure. Then all the talk about EGR valves seemed possible too since most of my symptoms went away when the engine warmed up. I also saw the talk about filter heads and air in the lines but it didn't seem as likely because the symptoms included running fine in Park or Neutral but stalling and loosing power in Reverse or Drive.

To me, it sounds like these symptoms and the codes are also leading lots of dealers and reputable shops down the wrong paths as well. I am even wondering how many TC's, EGR valves, MAF sensors and MAP sensors, etc. have been replaced due to air in the fuel system.

A bit long winded but I just wanted to offer some "LOST newbie" perspective. Great Forum!

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05 CRD, F37 and ball joint recall.
Brought to Canada from Wash. state,
no warranty :)
Trying new style Mopar Filter Head installed Jan 27/09.
I think it's Blue, my wife thinks it's green


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:47 pm 
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^^^ shhh, don't tell "onthehunt" :roll:

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'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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