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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:01 pm 
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I did file a complaint (ODI# 10205112 )and also emailed NHTSA. And as of this morning, Jeep will aslo be aware of it through my warranty replacement.
The service manager at my local dealer was ver ynice about the whole thing and even brought out a couple of other folks to share his concern with them.
He agreed to replace not just the filter head, but also the wiring connector under warranty. Parts are on order.

He also volunteered the info that they havent had to many CRDs, but that he has worked on a couple. Many someone already gave him the 3rd degree about the low quality of service the CRDs have been getting at Chrysler dealers.

Considering I bought my CRD out of town last week, and it still has the paper plate and some other dealers logo license plate on it, I thought he was very accomodating and professional.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:58 pm 
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Location: Saylorsburg, PA
Hi everyone,

I wanted to share another finding. Recently my wife and I went on a 360 mile round-trip trip towing our 26' travel trailer. I bled the air out of the filter head before the trip. When we finally got home from the trip, I noticed the CRD took several cranks the next morning to start. When I checked the filter head, it took three full pump up/bleed cycles to remove all the air from the filter head.

Now this was only 360 miles of driving. Why so much air? Most of it was under moderate to heavy boost while towing. I suspect that the CP3 is sucking more fuel under this heavy load, generating more negative pressure at the pump inlet, which in turn pulls more air into the system.

Just a friendly word of warning to those who tow... Bleed those filter heads!

- Chris


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:30 pm 
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I just had the same issue this past weekend towing a Uhaul to our other house in the PA mountains 260 miles away. The next morning it cranked quite a bit before it started. When I bled it, there was a ton of air in it. I just had my filter assembly replaced under warranty due to a leak and it is still getting air in it. When are we going to see a recall??

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 9:54 pm 
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is it hard to bleed the air? do you any special tools... OK just tell me how to do it :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:10 pm 
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Just checked mine and im in florida not much cold down here but anyways mine is leaking fuel and is burned will be filling a report tonight and bringing it to the dealer tomorrow :(

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:39 pm 
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ECM regulates return fuel by monitoring inlet fuel temperature at the filter manager head
- rail volume overflow is decreased as temperature rises, reducing return volume
- this can be accomplished as rail volume is always less than demand under normal loading conditions
- BTU thruput increases as loading increases, demand fuel increases, overflow decreases, less time and available volume for temperature management
- fuel temp increases, still withn acceptable range, aeration increases, trapped air volume increases - etc

Return-line fuel coolers start to look mighty attractive when towing.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it............................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


Last edited by gmctd on Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:12 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 6:38 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
is it hard to bleed the air? do you any special tools... OK just tell me how to do it :roll:


Here's a post with some instructions.

- Chris


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:11 am 
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chrispitude wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
is it hard to bleed the air? do you any special tools... OK just tell me how to do it :roll:


Here's a post with some instructions.

- Chris


Im a tard :oops: I thought I had already asked, but couldn't remember where. Thanks again Chris

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 6:59 pm 
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Mike and Chris.

Mine ran totally awfull anytine I hit a slight hill while towing. Everytime I checked there was air in the filter head. I put on a low pressure lift pump and have only towed our 3500# camping trailer on one trip since but it was night and day difference. I did not put on any type of bleeding bypass, just the pump and there has been no air build up in 2 tanks of fuel :lol: Jeep runs fantastic :!: It had been shuddering since day 1, mile 1 and it has not shuddered since :D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:18 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Mike and Chris.

Mine ran totally awfull anytine I hit a slight hill while towing. Everytime I checked there was air in the filter head. I put on a low pressure lift pump and have only towed our 3500# camping trailer on one trip since but it was night and day difference. I did not put on any type of bleeding bypass, just the pump and there has been no air build up in 2 tanks of fuel :lol: Jeep runs fantastic :!: It had been shuddering since day 1, mile 1 and it has not shuddered since :D

Yeah, I have the shuddering also. As annoying as it is, I just ignore it. I have thought about a lift pump, but I guess I am just hopeful that there will be some recall that will solve the problem. Funny thing is I had no trouble at all while towing, it seemed to do fine.

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Bear, Delaware
2006 Liberty Sport CRD 253K


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 11:37 am 
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Got to wonder if it's bad design or faulty construction :?: If it’s bad design then virtually every unit out there will fail sooner or later. If it's faulty construction then a limited number will fail and some will last the life of the vehicle. I will probly wear mine out just checking it :(


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 12:53 pm 
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Nothing wrong with the fuel manager head in and of itself, far as I can tell - it's placement in the system is the problem - being the highest point in the system, it is also the logical accumulator for air bubbles

- fuel, much denser than air, takes much longer to heat than air, also providing cooling for the plastic surrounding the heater element
- air heats much quicker than fuel, providing no thermal stability in the thermoplastic heater module

System design guarantees failure, particularly in colder climates where the heater is in frequent use - a failure poll: North vs South, for lowest encountered winter temps, would tell the tale

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 1:22 pm 
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[quote="gmctd"]Nothing wrong with the fuel manager head in and of itself, far as I can tell - it's placement in the system is the problem - being the highest point in the system, it is also the logical accumulator for air bubbles

I agree 100% :lol: I just roughly measured the drop from the outlet on the filter head to the inlet of the CP3 and it's over a foot :shock: My last tdi had a bubble every few seconds in the clear line going into the pump but it was only like a 3 inch drop and it was never a problem.

I'm also recently retired from the computer industry and have engine oil in my veins :lol: :) Bosch published a book titled "Diesel Fuel Injection" that is a wealth of information but being published in 1994 it does not include our CP3 peizo injectors. I'll have to look for a updated version :D

Joe

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:52 pm 
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I ironically it seems to me that from those mentioned here a lot of the failure of the heater have been in warmer climates where one might have never expected it to come on. I don't think anyone has done a poll though.

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'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 3:27 pm 
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I believe about 90% of the problem in the fuel system is the plastic puck that the fuel heater and temp sensor plug into.
It's probably mounted it the wrong position too - allows air bubbles to coalesce - but the root cause looks a lot more like pinholes/porosity in the plastic - leaking under vacumn. That's why a change to Racor - by itself will eliminate most if not all of the problems.

The folks who have problems - can't get them fixed until they change major parts. the folks who aren't having problem - don't get new problems. They don't start after a fuel filter change or other maintenance. And dealers don't have a clue on how to troubleshoot a vacumn system for leaks.

The lift pumps will overwhelm the leak, and they're low enough pressure they normally can't force a leak (takes a much larger hole to leak out diesel than to leak in air)

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Last edited by ATXKJ on Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:57 pm 
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If the preponderance of failure turns out to be below the Mason-Dixon line, where warm fuel and resultant fuel aeration would be a greater problem, then it would behoove the pollster(s) to determine the heater puck manufacturer's spec on service life vs percentage of immersion - the heater has max temp of 85degF, certainly not within damaging range of the thermo-plastic housing - flowing fuel will prevent any excessive thermal accumulation, or hot spot - aeration and air bubbles would definitely result in hot spots, charring the critical t-p bonding, destroying the element seal, and shorten the service life

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 4:54 pm 
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Here is a summery of the NHTSA "Defect Investigation":

Make: JEEP
Model: LIBERTY
Year: 2006
NHTSA Action Number: PE07041
Summary:
THE SUBJECT VEHICLES ARE POWERED BY A 2.8 LITER 4-CYLINDER TURBOCHARGED DIESEL ENGINE. A FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR ASSEMBLY IS LOCATED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT THAT INCLUDES AN ELECTRIC FUEL HEATER FOR PRE-HEATING THE DIESEL FUEL. CONSUMERS ALLEGE THAT DIESEL FUEL IS LEAKING AT THE FUEL HEATER CONNECTOR TO THE FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY. IN ADDITION, CONSUMERS REPORT THAT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR FOR THE FUEL HEATER WAS MOIST, BURNED AND/OR DISCOLORED. ONE REPORT ALLEGES THAT THE "ENTIRE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE" WAS BURNED BECAUSE OF THE DIESEL FUEL LEAK. FOUR CONSUMERS SAW OR SMELLED SMOKE; AND, ONE CONSUMER SAW BOILING DIESEL FUEL AT THE CONNECTOR AND SMELLED BURNING PLASTIC.

You can search the Action Number HERE

According to the letter to DCX, dated 8/20, they were to summit their response by October, 3 to the NHTSA.


We purchased our CRD last week, this was the first thing that I looked for, it clean and the plugs looked like that came straight from the factory, know that I said that wonder if they did.

Robert


Last edited by click23 on Mon Nov 05, 2007 5:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 5:01 pm 
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Very cool and great job :!: :!: :!:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:53 pm 
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I wonder if Chrysler made the oct 3 deadline.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:14 pm 
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I now have 2000 miles on the clock since I had my filter head replaced under warranty.
The past few day, I have noticed the Jeep needed to crank much longer than before.
So I checked it out, and sure enough I had to purge a bunch of air from the head already.
Amazing how quickly it builds up. I showed the wife how easy it is to do incase she is ever stranded somewhere due to it.


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