Prolly not, but I'll wait till the wee hours of the morning so I can get all the pasting and editing done - takes forever - wish I wasn't so PC-illiterate.................

Ok, here's the pics, for whatever nefarious purposes you guys got in mind>>>>>>>>>>

Here's C1 and C2 in proper position, latches closed


Same, latches open - push down on C1, remove, then pull up on C2


Using a small screwdriver to release the cover, two latches on C1, also on C2


And, released


C2-58pin and C1-96pin, face-on


C1-68 AFC, Brn\Gry - SEGR 7 and 8


C1-85 MAF, DkBlu\Grn - SEGR 1 and 2


C1-90 EGR, DkBlu\Vio - SEGR 4 and 5


C2-1 +12v, DkBrn\Vio - SEGR 3


C2-2 Ground, Blk\DkGrn - SEGR 6


C2-17 T41, Yel\DkBlu - SEGR 9


Spliced - crimped, soldered, shrunk, good to go


When popping the covers back on, make sure the latch is fully extended and handle is at full travel - C1...............


And C2


SEGR with factory wiring


Interestingly enuff, here is C1-11 Torque Management Request pin - hmmmm......what's gmctd up to, now, eh?


Equally as interesting, 8.5psi @ 55degF



A sealed rubber grommet thru the firewall is located just behind the fuel manager head, on the engine side - the SEGR harness may be fed thru that grommet to locate the module in the cabin, if so desired - see Bill Barq's post, somewhere above ^
http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/J ... ingProject

The splicing is easiest in the plastic harness tray on the firewall, but you'll still have to pull the ECM connectors to determine the correct wiring, as there are several of each color in that big harness

Unlatch and remove C1 - push the latch handle down, then pull the connector out, up and back to clear C2
Unlatch and remove C2 - pull the latch handle up, then pull the connector out and up from back of ECM
Carefully pull C1\C2 harness up and out to full extension from harness tray on firewall, clearing other wiring harnesses.

Pull the main harness tray off the firewall far as the brake booster, pop the cover off the tray using a small screwdriver on the latches
Un-tape and un-bundle the wires from the harness loom so you can separate and pull-trace the required wiring for splicing

Locate the pins in the connectors, identifiable by the wire color
The pin numbers are visible on each connector face

C1 is four columns of 24pins, counting top downward - 1-24, 25-48, 49-72, 73-96

C2 has 6 power pins across the top, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6
And four columns of 13pins counting top downward from the power pins - 7-19, 20-32, 33-45, 46-58

The male pins in the kit are for the box-mounted connector shell
The female pins are for the cable connector shell

Crimp is good - solder 'em if ya got 'em

The SEGR connectors are labled 1-2-3 in the top row, 4-5-6 in the second row, and 7-8-9 in the bottom row
Connector pin #'s correspond to termination points on the pcb:

Male box connector wiring from pcb
1=White - 1
2=Wh\Red str - 2
3=Red - 3
4=Blue - 4
5=empty, not used
6=Black - 6
7=Yellow - 7
8=Yel\Blk str - 8
9=Violet - 9

Female harness connector wiring

Cut the DkBlu\Grn MAF wire in two
1=Wh wire to Maf DkBlu\Grn
2=Wh\Red stripe to ECM MAF DkBlu\Grn

3=Red to C2-1 DkBrn\Vio +12v

Cut the DkBlu\Vio EGR wire in two
4=Blue to C1-90 ECM EGR DkBlu\Vio
5=Blu\Blk str to EGR solenoid DkBlu\Vio - used only with optional test jumper plug

6=Black to C2-2 Grnd Blk\DkGrn

Cut the Brn\Gry AFC wire in two
7=Yellow to ECM AFC Brn\Gry
8=Yel\Blk str to AFC valve Brn\Gry

9=Violet to C2-17 T41 Yel\DkBlu

Do 3,6,9 to C2 wiring first, as they are simple taps - the other 6 are cut and splice between C1 and the affected device

For 3,6,9, I carefully pushed a sharp awl thru the harness wire, tinned the bare SEGR wire, inserted it into the hole, soldered the joint and sealed it with black RTV, using a piece of tape for the curing mold.

The cut and splice joints were crimped, soldered and heat-shrinkable tubing used to insulate

Locate each wire\pin at the connector, noting the color, then pull that wire away from the main harness, noting which wire moves in the main harness, trace it back to where you want to splice it - terminate both ends B4 proceeding to the next cut\splice

After each wire is cut\separated, the end toward the connectors is ECM, as ECM EGR or ECM AFC - the other end, toward the engine, is the device, as EGR or AFC

When reassembling the covers to the connectors, make sure the latch is fully extended and the handle is at max open travel

Tape everything back up, re-lay the harness in the tray such that all wiring beds-in and can be covered, pop the cover back on and onto the firewall studs

Position the ECM harness to connect C2 first by pushing C2 into position, keeping C1 harness back against the fender\firewall - push C2 squarely into it's nest, push the handle down - movement should be firm, but not difficult as connector seats

Now carefully feed C1 harness down in behind C2 harness - it'll fit, it was there when you started this gig - insert C1 into nest, pull the handle up as the connector seats

Connect 9-wire harness connector to the black box, crank it up, and yer good to go

_________________
2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...

Nothing to add as yet...but I wanted to thank you for posting this in such detail. When I get around to installing this thing, this writeup will be a huge help.

Best,

_________________
George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary

I bought the SEGR pre soldered. However, my mechanic no longer available to put this in. I am a medic. Happy to work on people. Not sure I will cut the right wires etc. Looking for local help. Happy to pay!!
pablo0423

maybe ive been on this site too long i cant seem to find this info....can you tell me where you bought the segr and how much?
thx
Mike

_________________
JUST BECAUSE YOU CAN OR WILL DOES NOT MEAN YOU SHOULD!

I can try to find the name and email address, he is in New Mexico. The price for a finished (presoldered) was about $200. The kit, on hwhich you would have to solder some electronics boards etc, was less, about $100.00. Mine is still in the box, unused. Have not found a mechanic as of yet, so if you want this one, let me know. burkefamily6@comcast.net. Happy new year.

pm LocoCRD for the basic kit - or UFO to see if he has an assembled one

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

That's it! I could only remember the "loco" part. Very nice guy, very helpful. I just work on people, not machines!
pb

Ugh, that doesn look easy! Rats!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD Ltd - Suncoast, GDE Eco, EGR Delete, After market T-Stat, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back
2005 KJ CRD Sport-Suncoast, Transco, GDE Hot-GDE Trans, EGR Delete, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back, After market S-Stat
1987 Suzuki LWB Samurai -diesel powered, custom 4 link coil suspension 38.5 SX Swampers

After receiving my built SEGR kit from lococrd i decided to install it on saturday. The reason for purchasing the SEGR was that my Jeep was starting to run increasingly rough and belch black smoke on hard acceleration, which indicated a sticky EGR valve (IMO) after seeing how covered in carbon my MAP sensor was, I thought it was time to give the SEGR a go, to clean up the engine and make it run cleaner. EGR's just were not meant for diesel engines!

I started by disconnecting the battery and removing the 2 harnesses from the drivers side fender well l and removing the tops of the harness clips to expose the backs of the wiring and pins so that I could determine which wires to tap into i found the tops of the harness clips to pop off easier in the fully closed position. Cutting, splicing and taping the 8 connections didn't take much time, but cleaning it up and putting everything back in the harness to look factory took alittle longer!

After driving about 30 miles last night, all was working perfectly and my check engine light turned off all on its own. I will report more as I
put more miles on the jeep with the SEGR. If you can install a stereo,
you should easily be able to install the SEGR build kit.

I haven't decided where I am going to mount the box yet, right now it is temporarily zip tied on the passenger side of the engine bay. I'll update my feedback once i figure out where its going to go.

unfortunately, I didn't take pictures along, the way, but GMCTD already did the hard work.

_________________
Jeremy
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
OME 2.5 " Lift
BFG ALL TERAIN RADIAL T/A 245/70/16s
Pro Comp Series 7089 wheels
Factory Light Bar
Magna Flow straight through muffler
SEGR
Equus CanOBD2(R) Scan Tool