Write up by our own
"gmctd"...some great info and insights:
Well, the goodies are in - I dropped the trans\xfer case assembly complete with cross-member attached - easier to do, easier to balance on the trans-jack, and the attached x-member allowed positioning with the knees while the hands were otherwise occupied
The Suncoast torque convertor is much tighter than the DCX version -
DCX impeller\turbine vanes are just a RCH off exactly vertical to the axis of the t\c - no cupping, loose
Suncoast version is way more aggressive, with a pronounced cupping arc from center to circumference - it got hookup, folks.
The Transgo shift kit went smoothly - left out the pressure-boost resistor for later switchable installation, when time permits observance with scantool
(Thanks for the DRB reference pressure, Dzl_Lou)
Check the pics for reference -
Note the radial dimples in the t\c cover - any curvature from the center outward depicts vane angles, or cupping - the cover is the impeller - inside, turbine vane angles match impeller angles
- reverse curvature = little hookup, as in small displacement engines
- straight, little curvature, as shown = better hookup, but slips badly as power increases
- deeply arced curvature = very aggressive, very efficient hydraulic hookup
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 007#255007
- the rusty bit is the DCX oem F37 'upgrade' with stamped steel TCC clutch housing , straight impeller vanes, and plastic stator - there are two large chunks of steel counter-weight spot-welded onto the housing circumference for balance - Jeep passes this off as a torque convertor.
- the painted version is the Suncoast 2.8L CRD offering, with cnc-machined billet steel clutch housing for positive TCC apply, aggressive impeller vane angles for excellent low-rpm hydraulic hookup, and cnc-machined aluminum stator for reliable off-the-line 2.4:1 torque multiplication - oven-brazed fins for increased rigidity - a manly-man's Diesel torque convertor.
Shown is the oem Torque Convertor Clutch - the last pic is the clutch plate area of the drive cover, showing the burned areas where the disk was not applied full circle - this was likely caused by warpage of the stamped steel cover - the disk has been applied with only partial contact - this would cause slippage and shudder, eventually burning the friction material and depositing it in the fluid, with eventual transmission loss
That pic alone speaks volumes for a replacement billet torque convertor like the Sun Coast version
The nex-to-last pic is of an aluminum stator - but you got a plastic version of that in your oem DCX convertor, similar to the custom-finished version in the last pic - Sun Coast cnc-machined a new aluminum stator for the CRD 545RFE trans.
Note also the oven-brazed turbine-fins in the next-to-last pic - no girly-man convertor, there, folks.
Also shown is the redesigned pump cover plate with relocated front seal for the F37 pump upgrade.
Reason for the F37 pump replacement is -
http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0005se4.jpg
- trans has a removeable round stamped steel cover at the front of the case, covering and protecting the pump - cover outer diameter is sealed to a machined surface in the case, inner diameter fits over and is sealed to a machined collar or hub on the all-aluminum pump front cover
- the front oil seal for the t\c is installed in the collar on the original pump - in-chassis replacement is difficult, aluminum collar is easily damaged
- aluminum expansion\contraction properties are vastly different than steel
- final assembly has three seals - outer, inner, t\c
- replacement front pump is machined to eliminate the collar for the inner and t\c seals, is supplied with new replacement front cover and t\c seal
- front seal is now in the steel cover, easily removed for in-chassis service and replacement, not easily damaged by fumble-fingered techs
- final assembly has two seals in steel - outer and t\c
- definite improvement from any standpoint
And, one final thing -
- the oem t\c has an orange silicone o-ring in a groove on the driving hub for internal pump sealing
- the o-ring on our MAR07 F37 t\c and pump upgrade is scuffed and brownish and rough on the outer surface, where it would contact the inside bore of the pump
- got to realize, here, that the installation was done in March, but no way would that seal properly
- it almost appears as tho the pump and t\c was assembled dry, where the o-ring was damaged in the first few seconds of dry operation at 800 cold-idle rpm.
It is likely that any resultant problems from F37 t\c-pump upgrades are due to the same scenario - dry assembly with no pre-lubrication
This would certainly enhance shudder and poor shifting
This is not the currently shipped Suncoast Jeep t\c -
http://www.suncoastconverters.com/Jeep/ ... ducts.html
Also -
http://www.transmissionsone.com/45rfe_p ... om_pat.htm
Also also -
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/gene ... index.html
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