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 Post subject: Fuel Filter Change
PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:16 pm 
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Finally found some time to change the fuel filter on my 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel). overall it took only 30 minutes to do the job. this is my first filter change on my CRD, i have 25k mileage. I purchased the fuel filter from Hall Chrysler. No guarantee is made for the accuracy of this document, so use at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage or problems that may result from following these instructions.

Gathered the following tools:
Flat screw driver, crescent multi plier, hose plier, and 7/16" open ended spanner, shop towels.

Here are the steps i followed:
1. crawl under the car (under the driver side) and locate the fuel filter, remove the water sensor connector. you can just reach by hand.

2. open the hood, locate the fuel filter, disconnect the two electrical connectors (temp sensor the blue, heater the read one), loosen the clamp on the fuel output line, see the arrows on this pictures. it took me a while to remove the temperature sensor connector (the blue plug). i had to squeeze the bottom tab for that plug.

Image

3. using the hose plier, twist/wiggle the hose and remove the hose on fuel out line, it would look like below.

Image

4. now you will have enough room to remove the fuel filter, i used large crescent plier, put some rags under the fuel filter in case if you spill.

5. after removing the fuel filter, remove the water sensor plug located in the bottom of your old fuel filter, drain water and fuel in an container, here is the picture of new filter and water sensor plug which is removed from the old filter.

Image

6. remove the white color water drainer from the new filter and install the water sensor (the black color) on the new filter.

Image

7. make sure you remove the old o-rings from fuel filter assembly, i put few drops of Stanadyne Fuel Additiveon the new o-rings and added little bit (2 oz) of Stanadyne additive in the fuel filter.

Image

8. install the fuel filter, i just did hand tight, reattach the water sensor connector in the bottom, put pack the hose, reattach the electrical plugs on the top. now you need to loosen the air bleeder screw using 7/16" spanner. just one or two turns. this screw is located on top of the fuel filter. see the red arrow. put some shop towel under this air bleeder screw.

Image

9. push the primer button (see the red arrow in the picture below) until you see some diesel come out, Tighten down air bleeder valve, and pump till resistance. Bleed out the air and repeat. Do this until steady fuel comes out the air bleeder valve. tighten the air bleed screw. check for any leaks.. that is it..good luck.

Image[/url]

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Last edited by silica on Sun Sep 07, 2008 12:33 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:00 pm 
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Location: Metairie,Mt.Hermon La.
Hell of a first post.Thanks for the play by play on the filter change.
Been having a fuel filter for about 6 months just begging to installed.
Think i might just put it on,thanks to your detailed post.
Great job bro.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:40 pm
Posts: 639
Location: Colorado
great post.... i did this today at 47000 miles i think.... i took off the
connectors, and pulled the filter out throught the bottom of the
truck (i have fairly long arms)... still easy and still a 30 min or less
job... the lift pump made it nice and easy to prime... just turn the
key to on a few times (30 sec in between)

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'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K


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 Post subject: Perfect
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:49 pm 
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Changed mine today by following this write-up. Great post - I printed it out, and went through it step by step. First time I have ever done a fuel filter, and I probably wouldn't have attempted it without this post. At the end, it only took 3 cycles of pump-and-bleed before it was fully primed.

All I can say is: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LARGE PLIERS OR AN EXPANDABLE FILTER WRENCH!!! The ones I had were too small, luckily another gearhead 2 doors down had a neat little oil filter wrench that saved my bacon. As best I can tell, the filter was the original from the factory, and it was pretty tough to get off. And, thank you for the note about the temp plug on the filter head - your noting that made me look for it, and may have saved me a costly repair since until I looked closely at the arrow in the pic I thought it was supposed to come off closer to the head unit, like the heater plug does.

Great post, silica. I can't thank you enough.

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2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 12:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 12:42 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Nice, just the post I was looking for. Bought my filter last weekend and needed this post before I wanted to try.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 3:34 pm 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
I found if you take off both the fuel inlet and outlet hoses and also remove the two nuts holding the whole asembley to the fire wall you can pull the whole thing out and disconnect the water sensor connector without having to crawl under the jeep to do so.

I then screwed it back to the firewall to remove the filter with a wrench as it was on there pretty tight.

This was such a simple procedure to do that the stealerships should be ashamed at themselves for what they want to charge do do it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:39 am 
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Location: Victoria B.C
Huhhhhh wrote:
I found if you take off both the fuel inlet and outlet hoses and also remove the two nuts holding the whole asembley to the fire wall you can pull the whole thing out and disconnect the water sensor connector without having to crawl under the jeep to do so.

I then screwed it back to the firewall to remove the filter with a wrench as it was on there pretty tight.

This was such a simple procedure to do that the stealerships should be ashamed at themselves for what they want to charge do do it.


Thanks very very much for posting the idea of taking the whole bracket off the firewall to change the fuel filter. It was a thousand times easier and it saved a lot of "F- bombs" for other things !

Thanks again!!
Matt


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 Post subject: You guys are phenominal....
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 8:54 am 
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Location: Rochester, NY
Haven't been online for months. I have to change my fuel filter. Did a search and up popped this thread as the first post. Makes life so much easier to know what I am doing before screwing it up to learn.

Thanks silica...

Jim

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2005 Liberty Sport Stone White
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 1:21 pm 
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I just changed mine Today these instructions were helpful. I used a strap style filter wrench..... not that easy to get it in place but mine had a pivoiting handle so I could move it better than a standard one. I also filled my filter with diesel and some diesel clean and so it was nearly full before putting it on.

I did away with my factory bleader valve and installed this kit.

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/ ... oductid=70

I was able to bleed the air out very easily and have the flow go in to a cup.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat
Fumoto valve, MH ProVent
GDE Eco tune
Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
OME 790/948 springs
OME struts OME N132L shocks
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:52 pm 
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The problem with pre-filling it, is that you're pouring unfiltered diesel into the 'clean' side.

may or may not be an issue -

if you've got the lift pump - it's easy to put the filter on empty and tap the key once or twice to fill it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:33 pm 
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ewww I didn't really think about that. All seems well. I got the fuel from a very busy location and put in in a clean can that had a screen in the spout to filter out any dirt so I would think I did not put dirt in to the clean side. atleast I hope not.

I don't have a lift pump unless the first owner installed one. how would I know if I did?

I am very new to diesel power, this jeep is my first diesel. after today, the first time I handled diesel closely while changing the filter. since I never see much of it when I fill up. I think diesel looks clearer and cleaner than gas. It's just a little thicker, more oily, and smells different than gas.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat
Fumoto valve, MH ProVent
GDE Eco tune
Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
OME 790/948 springs
OME struts OME N132L shocks
Jeepin by Al A-arms


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:35 am 
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Unless the 1st owner was a LOST reader - odds are overwhelming you don't have a lift pump
however most of the installs have used the factory wiring which automatically primes the system if you turn the key on/off
all you have to do is open the vent and catch the overflow.

this is my first diesel too - I've just been reading LOST longer.

if you think about diesel as vegetable oil - it's a lot closer to the properties than gas

(in fact a couple of folks do run vegetable oil -
but there are a lot of issues about how to do that without killing the engine)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:21 pm 
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mikey1273 wrote:
I just changed mine Today these instructions were helpful. I used a strap style filter wrench..... not that easy to get it in place but mine had a pivoiting handle so I could move it better than a standard one. I also filled my filter with diesel and some diesel clean and so it was nearly full before putting it on.

I did away with my factory bleader valve and installed this kit.

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/ ... oductid=70

I was able to bleed the air out very easily and have the flow go in to a cup.



I should have posted this before. that bleader kit i put on ended up not workin out so well it seemed fine the day I did it but the next afternoon the engine shut down on me. I had air in the fuel system. I bead it out again and tightened the whole thing up several times but it still kept pulling air so I went back to stock and have no issues now.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat
Fumoto valve, MH ProVent
GDE Eco tune
Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
OME 790/948 springs
OME struts OME N132L shocks
Jeepin by Al A-arms


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 Post subject: Where to get the new fuel filter?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Location: Fort Collins, CO
My 06 CRD has 75K miles. The only bit of scheduled maintenance I have left to do is change the fuel filter and water collector. I went to NAPA and they want $24 for the parts. I went to the dealer and they want $115 - $130, depending on whether or not I need a new "pigtail" (wiring harness, I believe) + $45 for labor. So ...

Which parts should I get?

How do I know if I need a new harness?

Thanks!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:03 pm 
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They redesigned the fuel filter head because of the problems the original had.
if you haven't had any unexplained stalling issues, and you don't have fuel leaking out of the heater plug
then your original is okay and all you need is to change the filter.

however if you've had any problems or have fuel leaking from the heater
then you need the new head - the new head needs a new wiring pigtail (the plug is bigger)

the new filter head comes with a new filter installed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:38 am 
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After unhooking the wire plug from the bottom I use a flat steel chisel/punch (or a flat screwdriver) and gently tap it with a hammer while holding it on the top edge of the filter. Angle it slightly in the direction that the filter needs to rotate to loosen as you tap and it will loosen the filter easily. There was enough room to remove the filter out the top by only removing the wires. I filled the new filter about 3/4 with clean fuel before installing (hand tighten only). The engine started right up with NO priming!!!! NAPA had a filter sale....NAPA Gold part number 3647 $16.50.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:52 am 
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Wow timing must be everything $16.50 is like half what I paid. $31.99 with AAA show ur card discount for me. $36.99 at my local NAPA sans discounts.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat
Fumoto valve, MH ProVent
GDE Eco tune
Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
OME 790/948 springs
OME struts OME N132L shocks
Jeepin by Al A-arms


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:59 pm 
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mikey1273 wrote:
Wow timing must be everything $16.50 is like half what I paid. $31.99 with AAA show ur card discount for me. $36.99 at my local NAPA sans discounts.


Another reason to consider the Racor setup, replacement filters can be found for $20-$22

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Filter Change
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:32 pm 
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good write up just did mine today helped me alot

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The Wifes 2005 CRD Liberty with Fumoto Valve, Scangauge II, 2.5" straight pipe, EHM, and EGR unplugged awaiting poss Water Meth and a 2" lift kit


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Filter Change
PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:23 pm 
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I have read this post before but after 2 fuel filter changes from underneath, I was wondering why you would want to go through all of the extra steps to do a simple filter change. Both times I changed mine, filter unscrewed by hand from under jeep after disconnecting harness. A few primes with the bleed port cracked open and she's ready to go. Maybe a little fuel spilled when coming off with the old filter but no bigee :2cents:

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