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In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=37868		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  Biohazard KJ CRD [ Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:17 pm ]
Post subject:  In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift Pump in a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

Total time: 20 hours

For someone with more luck and skill it might take less time, but for me it took about 20 hours spread over 4 days. I'm sure it can be done in 19.

Read on...


Image
Author:  irboogie [ Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
That was an awsome write up, great job.
Author:  dgeist [ Thu Dec 11, 2008 6:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Great write-up
I get a warm fuzzy when people link their write ups to the ones I did :) Also, I had the same issue with the new in-tank unit gasket. I just left mine at one-notch. I figured if it's in there that tight, I'm unlikely to hit anything hard enough to get it out and if I do, I'll notice the very abrupt change in my fuel meter telling me that the sender just popped up.

Dan
Author:  gmctd [ Sat Dec 13, 2008 1:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Way excellent post, dude, with marvelous graphics - very professional - additionally, the correct method of installing the clamp ring with a hammer and drift driver is to triangulate the thrust and parry, which keeps the ring centered: select any slot, tap it, then move to any of the other two slots at 120* angle from the first, alternating the hits between the three slots at 0*, 120*, 240*, 0*, etc, keeping the clamp centered in the tank ears and on the module - can also do 4 slots at 0*, 180*, 90*, 270*, 0*, etc - just takes a little more time - and, since these CRD KJ's are less than three years old, reusing the original o'ring is a good option, making installation even easier - the Miller SPX #9340 tool is also easier, tho requiring two people, one to hold the tank, one to compress and manipulate the 1/2" drive break-over bar - very surprised Crusty and Igor couldn't handle it - maybe they couldn't figger out how to both charge time on one tool to one simple job :roll:
Author:  kelticknight [ Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:12 am ]
Post subject: 
nice review,my floot has come undone in tank as gauge reads full all the time but isnt,so will have to drop tank to reattach it,at lease now i know what its like
Author:  kelticknight [ Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
is the 15 mm bolt holding bracket holding tank the one attached to seatbelt which is also 15 mm,
Author:  Biohazard KJ CRD [ Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:52 am ]
Post subject: 
I don't know. I only removed the rear two bolts at the bumper and let the tank ride down the straps.
Author:  kelticknight [ Sun Mar 29, 2009 2:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
cheers guy,we did it today as float got detached and dropped the tank and connections,,and back on again
cheers
Author:  Coal Cracker [ Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
jsut did this mod today, only took me 5 hours spread out over two days. I did not have to remove left rear seat, was able to remove the panels and lift up carpet, just enough to get at wiring. used a cut piece of plywood and a floorjack, removed the straps totally, and dropped tank, worked out very well that way. used a new harness and swapped wires around, and removed the extra wires and connector for the tank sensor.

swapped the float rod, snipped the index tab, and installed the same configuration as the old sender unit, guage reads perfect. the shorter harness from the gasser wasn't bad to install either. I just jacked tank up into the well, and dropped it down about 4 inches, and you can get around the front of it and reach up and plug the connector in.


In my opinion this is the best mod you can make , and it was easier than installing the SEGR, don't be afraid to tackle this , with all the work and instructions these guys have given , it's a cake to do.

This should have been the first thing i did to my little tractor, throttle response is crisp, no more stumbling after full throttle, fires quicker, nicer highway manners, I cant wait to tow my boat.

Whatever bean counter said that these didn't need a pump in the tank , should have been given their pink slip, and flushed down the urinal.
Author:  AZ CRD [ Sat May 09, 2009 7:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
That is the coolest write up/pictorial guide I've ever seen on the internet. Saved it so I can torture myself again after installing my SEGR kit.

Thanks!
Author:  kelticknight [ Sat May 09, 2009 8:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
took me and friend about 2.5 hours to do,the guide help lots,cheers
Author:  CHenry [ Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re:
kelticknight wrote:
took me and friend about 2.5 hours to do,the guide help lots,cheers

2.5 hours compared to the OPs 20 hours seems odd?
Author:  dgeist [ Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Re:
CHenry wrote:
kelticknight wrote:
took me and friend about 2.5 hours to do,the guide help lots,cheers

2.5 hours compared to the OPs 20 hours seems odd?


Depends if you've had practice dropping a fuel tank before, if you have a strong back, and how particular you are about wiring and carpet... Mine was about 5 hrs start to cleanup.
Author:  Sawmilldon [ Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
I am preparing to do this mod, but I have access to a lift and a tranny jack. I am sure that it can be done pretty quickly, even with a beer in hand....
Author:  dgeist [ Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
Sawmilldon wrote:
I am preparing to do this mod, but I have access to a lift and a tranny jack. I am sure that it can be done pretty quickly, even with a beer in hand....


Sounds like you can avoid the heavy/painful parts pretty well. The whole thing can be done more quickly with crimp spliced on the electricals and so forth, but ugly electrical drives me crazy, so I took a lot of time to un-wrap the looms and solder/splice everything so it's more factory looking:
http://kj.polter.net/pics/cummins_pump/
Dan
Author:  Stephen_Jones [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
Thank you so much for this excellent guide! I am still pretty new to all this. So please be kind...

I am about to attempt this mod, but am I not the best with a wrench, or pliers, or a screwdriver! Are there any revisions, updates, changes or other caveats since this was posted that I might want to know before starting?

Since I will already have the tank out, what about replacing the fuel lines at the same time? What is your recommendation on that? What type hose would I need?

Any other tips, suggestions or warnings would be so much appreciated!

Thanks!!

Have a joyous Thanksgiving everyone!
Author:  bugnout [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 3:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
This is the latest howto thread, but might help to review the earlier thread as well.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385

I replaced the flexible hard lines with fuel hose. The supply side needs 5/16" line, the return 1/4". Used some very nice fuel hose clamps that have smooth bands, no holes and tapered on the edges so they don't cut into the hose. I got them from Napa. I also extended the tank breather line and ran it up by the filler tube. I left the fuel lines long from the tank and cut to length once I got the tank back in place.
Author:  Stephen_Jones [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
Thanks for the update. Will any old hose due? Or do I need something specific?
Author:  ATXKJ [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
a different thread had recommended Marine diesel hose

Okay - I'll just Quote Papa's response - I haven't seen any mentions of a source - so I'm guessing it not hard to find.

papaindigo wrote:
As I recall there are 2 quick disconnects back toward the tank. One is apparently accessible with the tank in place but the other requires dropping the tank. When dropping the tank you don't want much fuel in it due to the obvious weight issue. I don't have ready access to a post that provides a how to but as I recall you need to disconnect the fuel lines, probably an electrical connection to the fuel gauge sending unit, and the filler tube. Once done the rear tank straps can be undone and the tank lowered.

IMHO don't go cheap on fuel line, been there done that have the cracked line in the trash to prove it. Best get some marine grade diesel rated fuel; it will last forever and only costs a few bucks extra as you don't need much. Also don't cut the fuel line so you need fence stretchers to make it fit; a bit longer than minimum is desirable.

Those fittings are the usual source of air, other than the fuel filter head but... There are some possible sources in even the 2n gen filter head (inner gasket left on new filter install, leak at bleeder, leak at primer seal, filter not tightened enough) so you might want to stick a bit of clear vinyl tubing between the filter head and the inflow line to see if bubbles of air are coming in from there or "in front" of there before tackling the quick disconnect replacement.
Author:  Stephen_Jones [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details
Thanks again! One more question - how much hose do I need? I assume it is sold by the foot??
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