In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Dec 01, 2019 1:45 pm

So I finally went back in to swap the float as I missed that step (cut a hatch, will post in other thread soon), but my airtex which I bought about a year still causes a red fuel dash light. The gauge is reading properly.
I thought someone mentioned adjusting a potentiometer in an old thread, but I can't find any reference to it now.
The light comes off and on, but is mostly a problem in cold weather. Maybe i need to add a resistor, as current flow increases in cold weather...
At least i can add a resistor without pulling the sender again. Even though it's easy with the hatch, it's still a mess and man I have to beat the heck out of that ring, it shifts the whole tank (in vehicle).

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:56 am

IIRC all of the rheostats are the same, mountain man, and the floats likewise.
The bit that's different is the steel wire that attaches the float to the rheostat.

This is the CRD float arm. The regular Dodge arm would be right at the table level before it makes the 90 degree bend to the float.
The whole thing can be changed by unclipping the rheostat on both, and swapping them.
The only wiring necessary is for the fuel rheostat - to - fuel level gauge, and those wires are resistance only (no polarity) can go either way.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

CRD Joe wrote:

How do you know if you NEED this mod? Ive never had fueling issue with EITHER of my CRD's.

With a lift pump installed you will experience better start especially in cold weather, you will also feel the engine have quicker throttle response. You will also be sure you never have any fuel aeration issue and never gonna have to pump the fuel filter head again.

After the Webasto and the HDS thermostat housing, the in tank lift pump is the best CRD mod and one of the cheapest one.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Dec 08, 2019 2:58 pm

PZKW108 wrote:

CRD Joe wrote:

How do you know if you NEED this mod? Ive never had fueling issue with EITHER of my CRD's.

With a lift pump installed you will experience better start especially in cold weather, you will also feel the engine have quicker throttle response. You will also be sure you never have any fuel aeration issue and never gonna have to pump the fuel filter head again.
After the Webasto and the HDS thermostat housing, the in tank lift pump is the best CRD mod and one of the cheapest one.

And it will actually make the engine run and idle a little smoother as many have reported after installing an intank pump.
Behind EGR removal, it is the second most popular MOD to the Jeep CRD and well worth the time and money.... :rockon:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Dec 08, 2019 5:04 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

IIRC all of the rheostats are the same, mountain man, and the floats likewise.
The bit that's different is the steel wire that attaches the float to the rheostat.

This is the CRD float arm. The regular Dodge arm would be right at the table level before it makes the 90 degree bend to the float.
The whole thing can be changed by unclipping the rheostat on both, and swapping them.
The only wiring necessary is for the fuel rheostat - to - fuel level gauge, and those wires are resistance only (no polarity) can go either way.

Thanks! I'll have to look at swapping the whole rheostat assembly, versus just the float arm. I might just measure the resistance of both though, and maybe fix it without pulling the float again

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 42

Hi all,

I'm finally going to do this mod soon. Does anybody have any updates/etc to add to what's been provided here?

THANKS in advance for the help!

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2023 4:44 pm

SJBrooks wrote:

Hi all,
I'm finally going to do this mod soon. Does anybody have any updates/etc to add to what's been provided here?
THANKS in advance for the help!
Steve

See this, it provides a pretty good overview of intank fuel pump install:> Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift Pump Install Jeep Liberty CRD

Wire terminals available at Mouser Electronics if you want to add two wires to your existing wiring harness and build your own. (very easy)
Wire Terminals: Aptiv APEX (formerly Delphi) 2.8 Series Terminals 16 AWG to 14 AWG Bulk Automotive Connectors.
2 female and 1 male pins required & one 1/4" ring terminal for ground wire to body under rear seat
male, 14-16 gauge wire, Mouser Part #829-10757692-L
female, 14-16 gauge wire Mouser Part # 829-15509075-L
https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/aut ... onnectors/

You can purchase the wiring harness at Sasquatch Parts if you don't want to build your own.
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... berty-crd/

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 42

Thanks WW. I also previously printed out that Airtex pump install info from the link you provided. I expect that, between it and the main thread's info, I should be able to get it done.

Steve

xpenguin51 · **Posted:** Tue May 28, 2024 2:29 pm

dgeist wrote:

I believe the harness coming through the bottom of the seat cavity is a bit different based on the 2006 model having more ABS sensors on the back end. The same pins should be in place (and you can test that with key-on/key-off tests after you put a fuse in. The tank and sending units should be the same, but I'll say a 2006 owner might want to chime in just to confirm that. It's easy to verify if you don't mind having your carpet pulled up in the back while you figure it out. You're only really committed when you drain and drop the tank (by far the most labor-intensive part).

Dan

So DO you need to put in another fuse? if so where? I just bought a Liberty with the lift pump added, and new Sasquatch wire harness, but it never ran after the install. Already has after market pump head too. Lots of air in the line even after bleed and prime. The lift pump doesn't run at all on key-on also.
I'm thinking bad ground or missing fuse/relay but everything I've read so far implies the fuse and relay and power should already be in place.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue May 28, 2024 3:50 pm

xpenguin51 wrote:

dgeist wrote:

I believe the harness coming through the bottom of the seat cavity is a bit different based on the 2006 model having more ABS sensors on the back end. The same pins should be in place (and you can test that with key-on/key-off tests after you put a fuse in. The tank and sending units should be the same, but I'll say a 2006 owner might want to chime in just to confirm that. It's easy to verify if you don't mind having your carpet pulled up in the back while you figure it out. You're only really committed when you drain and drop the tank (by far the most labor-intensive part).

Dan

So DO you need to put in another fuse? if so where? I just bought a Liberty with the lift pump added, and new Sasquatch wire harness, but it never ran after the install. Already has after market pump head too. Lots of air in the line even after bleed and prime. The lift pump doesn't run at all on key-on also.
I'm thinking bad ground or missing fuse/relay but everything I've read so far implies the fuse and relay and power should already be in place.

What year model? 05 & 06 are different. Let us know so we can help! :wink:

If you have the correct wiring harness for your year model installed and wired correctly?
Does it have a fuse in place for the lift pump and a relay installed in the Power Distribution Center (TIPM) under the hood? See picture.
2006 is fuse 24 I believe, relay is same location as shown in 2005 model picture below.

THIS IS FOR AN 2005 MODEL YEAR ONLY!

xpenguin51 · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 8:24 am

WWDiesel wrote:

What year model? 05 & 06 are different. Let us know so we can help! :wink:

If you have the correct wiring harness for your year model installed and wired correctly?
Does it have a fuse in place for the lift pump and a relay installed in the Power Distribution Center (TIPM) under the hood? See picture.
2006 is fuse 24 I believe, relay is same location as shown in 2005 model picture below.

THIS IS FOR AN 2005 MODEL YEAR ONLY!

Wow, thanks for responding so fast!
It is the 2006, I saw that relay number 38. I swapped it with another one on the same panel to rule out a bad relay.
Ram cummins lift pump and sasquatch harness, here are the links of the parts the original owner bought:
https://www.idparts.com/tank-lift-pump- ... -5944.html
https://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-lif ... -2871.html
Basically, the original owner had driven it to the mechanic to install the lift pump, harness, and new fuel head (it's black painted metal), then it sat 6 months there not running- so I was able to buy it cheap and tow home. (If I prime it a ton and bleed air, it will run a minute or 2 and then the line is full of air again).
Turning the key on-off-on to acc does not pump fuel- i can't hear it running and no start anyways.
I just cut a hole for access to the pump and I'm ready to try and diagnose if there is no power but I don't know what to do exactly. Like using volt meter on which wire and turning on key.
I'm going to replace the quick disconnect fuel lines at the tank with real fuel hose and clamps.

xpenguin51 · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 10:06 am

Dunno if my last post actually posted:
2006 liberty sport crd automatic
Original owner drove it to mechanic 6 months ago, mechanic installed ram cummins lift pump, sasquatch wire harness (links below on the part numbers he ordered), and new fuel head (aftermarket painted black metal).
The relay is there, 38, I swapped it with 37 to rule out a bad one. So there may be a fuse I need to add, position 24 in the side of the dash or under hood?
I do NOT hear the pump run with key-on-off-on to acc. The ground wire is screwed to the hump the plug is attached to under the seat with paint sanded off a bit but since that's welded to the floor pan I assume it's a good ground.
I cut a hole in trunk for access to the pump and will switch the quick connect lines for rubber fuel hose next.
Basically I can bleed it and prime it a BUNCH and it will run for a minute, it throws a p0093 fuel leak code- no wetness anywhere- and a lot of air is in the line again with no prime.

https://www.idparts.com/tank-lift-pump- ... -5944.html
https://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-lif ... -2871.html

WWDiesel wrote:

xpenguin51 wrote:

dgeist wrote:

I believe the harness coming through the bottom of the seat cavity is a bit different based on the 2006 model having more ABS sensors on the back end. The same pins should be in place (and you can test that with key-on/key-off tests after you put a fuse in. The tank and sending units should be the same, but I'll say a 2006 owner might want to chime in just to confirm that. It's easy to verify if you don't mind having your carpet pulled up in the back while you figure it out. You're only really committed when you drain and drop the tank (by far the most labor-intensive part).

Dan

So DO you need to put in another fuse? if so where? I just bought a Liberty with the lift pump added, and new Sasquatch wire harness, but it never ran after the install. Already has after market pump head too. Lots of air in the line even after bleed and prime. The lift pump doesn't run at all on key-on also.
I'm thinking bad ground or missing fuse/relay but everything I've read so far implies the fuse and relay and power should already be in place.

What year model? 05 & 06 are different. Let us know so we can help! :wink:

If you have the correct wiring harness for your year model installed and wired correctly?
Does it have a fuse in place for the lift pump and a relay installed in the Power Distribution Center (TIPM) under the hood? See picture.
2006 is fuse 24 I believe, relay is same location as shown in 2005 model picture below.

THIS IS FOR AN 2005 MODEL YEAR ONLY!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 5:14 pm

xpenguin51 wrote:

Dunno if my last post actually posted:
2006 liberty sport crd automatic
Original owner drove it to mechanic 6 months ago, mechanic installed ram cummins lift pump, sasquatch wire harness (links below on the part numbers he ordered), and new fuel head (aftermarket painted black metal).
The relay is there, 38, I swapped it with 37 to rule out a bad one. So there may be a fuse I need to add, position 24 in the side of the dash or under hood?
I do NOT hear the pump run with key-on-off-on to acc. The ground wire is screwed to the hump the plug is attached to under the seat with paint sanded off a bit but since that's welded to the floor pan I assume it's a good ground.
I cut a hole in trunk for access to the pump and will switch the quick connect lines for rubber fuel hose next.
Basically I can bleed it and prime it a BUNCH and it will run for a minute, it throws a p0093 fuel leak code- no wetness anywhere- and a lot of air is in the line again with no prime.
https://www.idparts.com/tank-lift-pump- ... -5944.html
https://www.idparts.com/liberty-crd-lif ... -2871.html

That is the correct fuel pump and the correct wiring harness for a 2006 year model.
You tried swapping relays, and you said it made no difference.
Did you check all the fuses in the Power Distribution Module under the hood with a 12v test light or a voltmeter to make sure you don't a bad/blown fuse?
I think on a 06 it is fuse no. 24??? FSM is not real clear.
Is the ground good under the rear seat under the carpet for the fuel pump? Easy to check ground and wiring connector under the rear seat. See drawing.

Simple check is to test at connector if you are getting power when you switch the key on to the start position, it should energize the fuel pump circuit for about 15-20 seconds. While the engine is running, the fuel pump should run continuously.
You should also be able to feel the fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Center under the hood (TIPM) energize (click/close) when you first turn the key to the ON/RUN position.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 5:23 pm

If you remove the relay for the fuel pump and put a jumper from terminals 30 to 87 in the cavity in the Power Distribution Center with the key in the ON/RUN position, the fuel pump should run if all other wiring is connected correctly and the fuel pump has not froze up.

xpenguin51 · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 5:51 pm

I changed fuse 17 from a 10 to 20, but fuse was good anyway. I swapped to another relay too- I'll try testing the ground and then the jumper of the relay next.
Fuse 24 space has no metal contacts under the holes.

WWDiesel wrote:

That is the correct fuel pump and the correct wiring harness for a 2006 year model.
You tried swapping relays, and you said it made no difference.
Did you check all the fuses in the Power Distribution Module under the hood with a 12v test light or a voltmeter to make sure you don't a bad/blown fuse?
I think on a 06 it is fuse no. 24??? FSM is not real clear.
Is the ground good under the rear seat under the carpet for the fuel pump? Easy to check ground and wiring connector under the rear seat. See drawing.

Simple check is to test at connector if you are getting power when you switch the key on to the start position, it should energize the fuel pump circuit for about 15-20 seconds. While the engine is running, the fuel pump should run continuously.
You should also be able to feel the fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Center under the hood (TIPM) energize (click/close) when you first turn the key to the ON/RUN position.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 29, 2024 11:06 pm

xpenguin51 wrote:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pWQtyRCVPoAUjoyhLLfSdYHU-XmPRgkQ/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rAwmTo0WtHUadcwkxKCUsmGfQzS2nTrH/view
Neither of you Google photos are showing. I tried to fix them, but could not make them work properly.
I did get the links to at least work.
I changed fuse 17 from a 10 to 20, but fuse was good anyway. I swapped to another relay too- I'll try testing the ground and then the jumper of the relay next.
Fuse 24 space has no metal contacts under the holes.

The fuse panel on the side of the dash has nothing to do with the running of the fuel pump. Everything is done from the fuse panel under the hood.

Is the fuel pump relay activating when you turn on the key? You should be able to hear it click or put your finger on it and feel it close.
Next test would be to remove the relay and jumper relay cavity pins 30 to 87 as I shown you in previous post and test for voltage at the tank connection on top of the tank or the connector under the rear seat using one of these:

In-tank Lift Pump Installation Details

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