Since I'm about to install a lift pump in CRD #2, I decided to review my installation of the pump in CRD#1.
My homemade bracket and jerry-rigging isn't the best but it was cheap and has worked flawlessly. Nonetheless, I think the pictures may help those seeking to take on this project with an externally mounted lift pump.
Here are the hardware pieces I collected including the bracket using angle braces from the hardware store. The fittings are 1/2' with 3/8 nipples. (The only thing that actually comes with the pump from Kennedy Diesel, is the pump.) The idea was to find something that didn't require welding or cutting - and only minor drilling - to fit the pump, allow it to be easily mounted and provided at least minimal protection. The pump mounts are on the top of the pump and there are no through-holes so I wanted a bracket I could mount it to and then mount with a gap between it and the frame so I could access the pump bolts for whatever reason.
Here is the assembled bracket. I would have preferred it ran down below the bottom of the pump but since the pump sits way up under the car I think it's OK. It only serves as basic protection against gravel, mud etc.. but probably isn't needed.
Painted to look nice & ready to install:
Basic mounting done:
Here is what the infamous Silly-air-sucking fittings look like. They are no longer relevant since you are now pressurizing rather than vacuuming.
A simple, old fashion hose-over-line-with-clamp fitting. I spliced into the plastic line, but you will want to do it more carefully and splice into the 3/8 metal line. By golly, it works just fine and there is no way mine's coming off.
I used the high quality lined hose:
I tracked down the wiring harness by looking under the carpet behind the seat on the drivers side:
But you tap into it from next to the door jam. You can also see my ground wire for the motor here. You will need to tap into the blue/orage wire for your power. This is important. It is not just a wire that energizes when the ignition is on. The correct wire stays on for about 15 seconds when you turn the ignition and then turns off. It stays on continually when the engine is running. TEST it first. I'm not color blind but I found it very difficult to accurate discern color differences. Because there are so many similar looking wires, my first choice, after testing turned out to be wrong. Poke the perceived correct wire with the multimeter, turn on the ignition and the watch to see if it goes off after 15-20 seconds:
The wire bundle. There is a mess of 'em:
OK, now this part was just plain old fashioned painful for me. You need to thread the wiring through a grommet which is located a ways under the under the carpet under the seat. Because it is under the seat, it doesn't lift much. There may be a better way to do it but without removing the seat, I'm not sure what it is. I ended up with some nasty scrapes jamming my arms way up under the carpet to find the grommet. It is easier to thread the wiring up from below but you still have to fiddle around to find it under there:
And here is the grommet you are looking for from under the car. This allows you to thread the power through the floor without drilling another hole.
In place and hooked up. Some claim a reduction in noise, others claim reduction in turbo lag, some claim claim reduction in the incidence of the common cold. I have not noticed the major performance improvement that others claim - except that it doesn't suck air bubbles, which means it runs more regularly, which I suppose IS a major performance improvement. The ease of changing filters and avoiding the major fuel bubble hassle and faulty fuel manager problem I just experienced with CRD#2 makes it worthwhile all by itself:
[/img]
