I bought parts for my version of a homemade Provent a while back. I installed it in the truck yesterday.
I didn't use all the parts though. Here are the pics:
And the oil drain tube out the bottom:
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Homemade Provent installed |
I bought parts for my version of a homemade Provent a while back. I installed it in the truck yesterday.
I didn't use all the parts though. Here are the pics:
And the oil drain tube out the bottom:
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| Author: | UFO [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:10 pm ] |
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Looks good, and very similar to mine. I recently had a noise and exhaust smell under the hood so I thought mine got plugged after 20k+ miles. I checked it out, but it was clear and turned out to be a compression leak in injectors 2 and 3. |
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| Author: | liberty2.8 [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:06 am ] |
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Looks good Squeeto; you have inspired me to follow your instructions. Looks like it should cost under $20. Couple of questions though:
Is the ball valve easy to get to in order to open? How often do you think it will need to be drained given the relatively small size? This should be a sticky. Best description I've seen for the homemade Provent! |
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| Author: | RJM [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:51 am ] |
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Looks great, I have a similar setup. I found that after a 500 miles oil started finding its way through the filter/condenser so I added a second one in series. no problems since. |
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| Author: | UFO [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:45 am ] |
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I put my valve at the bottom of the drain hose. I drain it at oil changes and get at most 1/2 a cup to drain. I maintain the oil level just above the lower dipstick mark. |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 2:38 pm ] |
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liberty2.8 wrote: Looks good Squeeto; you have inspired me to follow your instructions. Looks like it should cost under $20. Couple of questions though:
Is the ball valve easy to get to in order to open? How often do you think it will need to be drained given the relatively small size? Thank you, but this is just my version of what many have done before in this forum. I used the clear pvc so that I could "see" if this works. I wanted to see how sooty the hose gets after my separator. The pvc won't last as long as the hydraulic line, so I will replace it later. I positioned the valve facing the grill and there is enough room to reach down and open it without having to move anything. I don't know how fast this fills, yet. I recorded my km's and will check it every so often. I hope to be able to drain it every time I do an oil change. The nice thing with these screw together parts, is that they can be added to. Also good to be able to open up and clean if needed. I also later want to check if the scrub pad is rusting. I didn't buy the dollar store type scrub pad though. UFO said: I put my valve at the bottom of the drain hose. This is a good suggestion and a quick mod if I need it. |
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| Author: | Silverdiesel [ Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:19 am ] |
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Going to to by parts soon- I likey!!! Hey administrators/moderators make this a CRD tech entry- simple, cheap, effective, workable, parts available! Roland |
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| Author: | hankdz [ Tue Sep 22, 2009 2:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Home made Provent also |
Hi. I also made a home made CCV vapor separator. I used a two chamber oil squeeze bottle and lava rock with shredded paper and cotton the first time. Another member suggested steel wool instead. The first one crapped up in about 1,000 miles and I changed the medium to steel wool. It lasted about 3,000 miles. I just redid it again and switched the intake and outlet around so the intake is into the small chamber and the outlet is from the large chamber. I am replying to your post to let you know the performance of my design and to learn something about yours. One of the things I did was to use hydraulic hose throughout. I can see into the chambers to tell when they are getting crapped up so I didn't need the clear hose. The first assembly crapped up the cotton and paper filler quickly so I abandoned that method. The lava rock part worked fine. However, i switched to steel wool because it makes sense when considering the surface area for adsorption. The second assembly worked better but the problem with both assemblies was that there is some carry over of oil vapor into the outlet hose and thereby into the intake manifold. It isn't much but it does occur. My question to you is would you please let us know whether your design takes all of the oil/water out of the vapor before the gas is passed back to the intake manifold? Another note. Your assembly is cleaner looking than mine and i tend to want to abandon mine just for that reason alone. Again, I am very interested in whether your design eliminated all of the moisture from the gas passing back to the intake manifold. Thanks. Hank Dz |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:16 pm ] |
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hankdz I'll try to post a picture tomorrow. |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:28 pm ] |
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This is the output hose after 2060Km, 1280 miles. 
I'll drain the oil later and post a pic of how much I collected. |
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| Author: | RJM [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:48 pm ] |
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Squeeto wrote: This is the output hose after 2060Km, 1280 miles.
I'll drain the oil later and post a pic of how much I collected. I used the same type of braided hose for my initial setup but had to replace them after about 15000miles, they get hard and brittle. Low pressure hydralic hose seems to be the only thing that stands up to the oil and heat of the engine. Just a thought. |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:35 pm ] |
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I used it just to see how sooty the hose gets after my separator. I will replace it later with low pressure hydraulic hose. |
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| Author: | mackruss [ Fri Sep 25, 2009 1:09 pm ] |
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Did you fit the ball valve on the oil drain hose or not? |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:08 pm ] |
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mackruss wrote: Did you fit the ball valve on the oil drain hose or not?
No, but I am still not sure that I shouldn't. The device does seem to filter the oil from the flow. I took it apart and there is a lot of black oil throughout but none at the top (output) - good. But the soft plastic, when heated, leaks. I wasn't getting too much indication on the driveway, but I suppose as I drove off, it would start to leak. What to do? I could tighten the crap out of it when it is hot but that's probably not be the best way. Maybe glue all the fittings except the top so I still have accessibility. The top doesn't leak anyway. If it does start to leak, past time to drain the oil! Scrap it and buy the metal one someone found a while back. Any ideas? |
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| Author: | RJM [ Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:33 pm ] |
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PVC shrinks when it gets hot, no matter how much you tighten it the plastic will distort, shrink and start to leak. try my setup with Banjo fittings you'll like it. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ccv+filter |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:03 pm ] |
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RJM wrote: PVC shrinks when it gets hot, no matter how much you tighten it the plastic will distort, shrink and start to leak. try my setup with Banjo fittings you'll like it. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ccv+filter
A pressure washer inlet filter is a good idea but I sure don't want to have to unscrew the cup to drain the oil. Tapping the plastic at the bottom would crack and leak in no time. Now, if one could find a brass fitting with a flanged head, rubber seal, nut and washer to go with a pressure washer inlet filter; that would work. 
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| Author: | RJM [ Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:18 pm ] |
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Squeeto wrote: RJM wrote: PVC shrinks when it gets hot, no matter how much you tighten it the plastic will distort, shrink and start to leak. try my setup with Banjo fittings you'll like it. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ccv+filter A pressure washer inlet filter is a good idea but I sure don't want to have to unscrew the cup to drain the oil. Tapping the plastic at the bottom would crack and leak in no time. Now, if one could find a brass fitting with a flanged head, rubber seal, nut and washer to go with a pressure washer inlet filter; that would work. Both my units are drilled and tapped and linked together with a Tee 10000 miles on them with no leaks. the only leak I had was with the o-ring that comes with the filter assembly, it is not compatible with petro products. I replaced both with small oil filter gaskets. |
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| Author: | RJM [ Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:18 pm ] |
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Squeeto wrote: RJM wrote: PVC shrinks when it gets hot, no matter how much you tighten it the plastic will distort, shrink and start to leak. try my setup with Banjo fittings you'll like it. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ccv+filter A pressure washer inlet filter is a good idea but I sure don't want to have to unscrew the cup to drain the oil. Tapping the plastic at the bottom would crack and leak in no time. Now, if one could find a brass fitting with a flanged head, rubber seal, nut and washer to go with a pressure washer inlet filter; that would work. Both my units are drilled and tapped and linked together with a Tee 10000 miles on them with no leaks. the only leak I had was with the o-ring that comes with the filter assembly, it is not compatible with petro products. I replaced both with small oil filter gaskets. |
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| Author: | Squeeto [ Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:29 pm ] |
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Quote: Both my units are drilled and tapped
How thick is the plastic where you tapped? I have 3/4 inch of thread contact with pvc to pvc fittings (with teflon tape) and they leaked. |
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| Author: | RJM [ Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:59 pm ] |
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Squeeto wrote: Quote: Both my units are drilled and tapped How thick is the plastic where you tapped? I have 3/4 inch of thread contact with pvc to pvc fittings (with teflon tape) and they leaked. Approx 1/4", The body of the filter is not PVC I think it is structural foam, the same material used to make heavy duty tool boxes. try silicone on the threads as pipe dope instead of teflon tape, make sure both male and female ends are clean with no oil residue. It seals better and has greater vibration resistence. |
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