192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

We all need to pitch in and buy you a US spec 5000 watt generator. Would that be enough? I'm in for $25 and if others could do same, we'd get this great product back into production ;-)

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:37 am

Assuming a generator with enough grunt to run his equipment can meet the shipping weight limitations then I'm in for upto $50

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:36 am

We used high power variable transformers in shop class to vary the speed of motors.
These will regulate your 240 volts from nearly 0 volts to above 240 volts.
Just set it to 100 volts.

Phatjimmy · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:38 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

The Lathe/mill is 120v 60 hz. The power here is 240v50hz. The transformers change the voltage down to the 120v, but its still the 50hz. The the 50hz causes american motors (built for 60hz) to run really really hot. Its been recommended to me to run them at lower voltage like around 100v to avoid the overheating that damages them. My work facility here does have a built in transformer system, but it has the same issue....its still at the 50hz so machining there wouldn't be any better than at home unfortunately.

Any ideas on how to get down to approx 100v?

Well, I do high voltage work for a profession and the only solution other then a generator is a VFD (variable frequency drive). Allen Bradley probably makes the best. I'm sure you could find one on E-bay used. I know they are well over 1K new. A VFD is the only way to change frequency safely on any A/C motor. Resistors only change voltage and capacitors only help with a kick on start up. The other option is to spec out a 240v, 50 hz motor for your replacement. That is probably your best option as a 50 hz motor will cost around the same as a 60 hz motor. If you have a Kirby Risk or Grainger supply down under, they can spec out a replacement motor for you. If you want, send me the motor specs and I can try and find you some replacement part numbers. Anything to help

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:45 pm

I thought about recommending a VFD also, but most of them are three phase. He has a single phase motor, probably capacitor started, as such it is not a great application for a VFD. A locally sourced motor set up for the proper voltage would be the easiest and most reliable way out.

Phatjimmy · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:11 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

I thought about recommending a VFD also, but most of them are three phase. He has a single phase motor, probably capacitor started, as such it is not a great application for a VFD. A locally sourced motor set up for the proper voltage would be the easiest and most reliable way out.

I didn't think of that but you are right most are 3 phase. They do make single phase VFD's but they are geared more towards PLC applications. I would have to look through my catalog to see if one even is available. I did replace a Siemens VFD on a single phase Rotweller bore bar machine a few years back. It was a pretty complicated process. But, I do agree a motor change for the voltage and frequency in Mark's area will be the best solution. Easy change and you can probably get a better quality motor then what Harbor Freight will sell you.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:35 pm

Mark,
Once you're back in production, will you/we be able to ship via an FPO/APO to save on freight etc. ?

Thanks for your service to the USA !!
Dennis

PS, My daughter (E-5) is in ATC @ Nellis
4th generation of service, all branches
now covered.

Glend · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:44 pm

Mark, Welcome to Australia! Hope you enjoy your time here and get out into the outback (well outside of Alice at least).

Glend
Sydney, Australia

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:46 pm

kmondon wrote:

I may be a little naive, but could you use a locally sourced 50 hz electric motor to drive a 60 hz generator head?

Somewhat like the rotary phase converters used to operate 3 phase equipment on single phase electricity.

Great idea, I think I missed this post earlier.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:57 pm

Thanks for the welcome Glend!

Dennis, Thanks for honoring the men/woman of the military and congratz and thank you of the generational service of your family.

Thanks for everyone's ideas and the thought to pitch in for me to get things up and running. :frankie:

I'll try to make this brief and to the point as I have a lot to fill you all in on.

I have received a motor from Wholesale tool that fits my lathe/mill (they sell one nearly identical to mine). Harbor Freight's customer service is the worst I've experienced in my lifetime and I will do what I can to avoid them completely for any purchase in the future.

The motor is all wired up and working properly after a bit of T/S. I also was able to re-machine my Mill motor pulley to make it run true to avoid the previous vibration issues and hopefully preserve bearing life on the motor.

For cooling I am using a medium sized Air Conditioning unit with ducts running to each motor fan intakes. I am able to sustain temperatures below 200º F at idle (not machining) and prevent temps rising above 220º F under heavy machining load at 100% duty cycle. This is the simplest/cheapest way to avoid the whole issue of having to change the Hz or drop the voltage to prevent overheating damage.

I was able to thoroughly test out the mill, and I have machined the remaining units (the last 15 or so) to have their decks machined to the proper height.

At the moment I have about 25 units all at this stage. The next step is to drill/tap them all for the studs.

I have recently received a parts order for more studs/nuts/washers/gasket material. I already have enough hoses/water outlets for the 25 units I have.

I'll keep you updated as things go. I just don't like to keep pushing this thread back to the top unless I have something good to say.

My PM box is full on here and I like to keep the messages for records of who wants what on the thermostats/other email traffic so I wont delete anything else.

Please email me at awdv8@yahoo.com if you need to get a hold of me as I have unlimited space on the yahoo account for messages.

- Mark

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:30 pm

Thanks for the update Mark! Keep plugging away.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:52 pm

Hey Mark,
In your past posts you mention that you purchase your upper T-stat housing from the Kia dealership. Here is an after-market product that seems to be the same.

Auto 7 Inc. pt# 311-0024 http://www.auto7inc.com/

You may be able to buy them direct in quantity if you set-up an account with them.
I see them listed on eBaY and Amazon.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:05 am

Mark,
On another note, I think the the Stant 3208/3209 thrmostat can be crossed over to a Motorad thermostat 335-180/335-192 (last 3 digits denotes temp.) Dimensions are the same, Stant vs. Motorad

Here's Motorads catalog.
http://www.fishman-tt.com/_Uploads/dbsA ... atalog.pdf

Hope this helps.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Nov 16, 2012 10:17 pm

IT might be worth looking into for the water outlet housings, however I have about 25 at the moment so should be good to go for this go around.

On the stant tstats, I looked into both brands, however the 3209's seemed to be inferior in quality. the steel was thinner, it wasn't rolled in areas where motorad was for strength, the lower block off piece wasn't quite centred and it was simple punched out steel that looked to be a more porous lower grade of steel compared to the MotoRad. If I remember right the stant was available in 195º temp where as the motorad was only available in 192º for the higher temps, but I just couldn't bring myself to trust the cheaper looking tstat.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:11 am

Leaving tomorrow for vacation, will be back in approx a month. I have all 25 units machined flat and drilled now. All the bugs are worked out of the machine adn the Air Conditioning unit is keeping up with the temperature issues the motors were having. I will drill the intermediate plates upon my return and continue catching up with the list. I have received gasket material, nuts, studs, washers, hoses, water outlets, etc for the 25 units I have here.

I am not adding anyone to the list or taking any new orders Strictly catching up at this point. It's hard enough to find the time to keep going with this project, but I am determined to at least catch up and complete what I have here.

- Mark

castnblast · **Joined:** Fri Oct 29, 2010 8:34 pm **Posts:** 18

Thank you for your dedication to this project, Mark.

Have a great vacation!

Castnblast

06PeakBagger · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:21 am

Thank you

Have a wonderful vacation and enjoy the Holidays!

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sat Feb 09, 2013 4:45 am

Back from vacation but having back issues. Gotta see a specialist out of town and get a MRI. I'll keep you guys posted, but not doing machining lately for obvious reasons. Hoping to feel up to it next weekend.

There has been a lot of interest in this unit so I decided to post what information I have on it so others can make their own if they feel the drive for it.

I recently added an image with dimensions and a diagram of my intermediate plate and my bypass port insert piece. I also added a list of the parts from other vehicles required to do the conversion. These will stay up on the 1st post of the 1st page on this thread for easy access by all who are interested (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50940&p=566488#p566488).

- Mark

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:46 am

Good luck with your back Mark. Hope you get it feeling better.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:16 am

Update:

Nelson15's Unit should be shipping out Monday as soon as I hear from him, bugnout is next on the list.

bugnout, Please shoot me an email at awdv8@yahoo.com (my inbox on here is completely full) and let me know what options you want. Your unit is machined, drilled, tapped. The spacer is machined and drilled, I just need to final machine the bypass insert and press it in and to know if you want me to leave the plastic or install the brass fittings.

- Mark

192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

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