kapalczynski,

Great work. I'll be following this thread to see how your revised thermostat housing works when it is installed and working for a few months. I am definetely interested in one.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I would be in when my tstat is ready to go.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Sounds good guys. As soon as it's in I will get some good numbers for the actual operating temps at a cruise, idling, towing, etc with a scan tool and the different temp thermostats. Because my OEM thermostat has failed (I run 154* at a cruise ) I just ordered a new OEM one also for comparison values. We can compare the actual operating temps of a new 176* factory temp to the 180* and 192* of my design.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Coolness.

*subscribed thread*

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Just thought I'd give you all an update. I ordered some aluminum stock to machine for sort of an intermediate plate. This allows for an easy machinable area for a perfect recess for the thermostat and solves the issue of the possibility of the outer seem leaking. Also, it eliminates the possibility for mistakes on machining the cores. I think this is the best solution with the least cost. Only adds about $2.00 per part, so total cost of the kit is looking good to be right at $100.

So far kit looks like it will include:


- Used jeep thermostat housing w/newly machined surface
- New water outlet housing
- New machined intermediate thermostat plate
- New thermostat (Choice of 180* or 192* thermostat)
- New upper radiator hose & clamps (hose specific to this water outlet size that is slightly different than OEM)
- New Studs/Nuts/Washers (for water outlet only)
- All new gaskets necessary
- Easy maintenance for the rest of your jeeps life

Added options may include:
- All new OEM jeep hoses
- Second thermostat (different temp - for those who may want to run a 180* in the summer or when towing and a
192* in winter or when not towing)

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

K-

The used TS will be in the mail tomorrow. I showed the TS to our Diesel Mechanics and they all agreed that the upper neck is most likely glued in with some high tech adhesive. I declined their offer of using a torch to try and get it apart. But if you ruin one, send it back and we'll try.

Allen

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'05 CRD Limited
Lt. Khaki
235's 75R16 -
InMotion Stage 2
SEGR - runnin' good
Cummings Lift pump
Fia - Winter / Summer Cover
Turbo Timer

I have a failed thermostat and will donate to the cause. PM the address to send it to.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

Loctite 290 will seal up any small leaks you may get that you can't with welding or other means.
For the threaded holes, using a stud and nut would allow you to seal up the threads with Loctite 290 from any leaks. Since Loctite is pressure activated, screw in the stud with the Loctite in the hole, put on the cap and tighten up the nuts, your sealed in a few minuets.
Looks like you aren't running an ISO 900X shop or it would take another year to get it out.
Keep the innovation process going.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Thanks for the TS! Some of the other guys think it is roll crimped and i think it could even be sonic welded. Sonic welding for aluminum is a newer technology, but it is out there.

From wikepedia:
"Aluminum is a difficult metal to weld using traditional techniques because of its high thermal conductivity. However, it is one of the easier materials to weld using ultrasonic welding because it is a softer alloy metal and thus a solid-state weld is simple to achieve.[10] Since aluminum is so widely used in the aerospace industry, it follows that ultrasonic welding is an important manufacturing process."

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Excellent Idea on the stud/nut with loctite. I will have to do research on the best thread sealers available for that higher temp application. Here is the chart from loctite 290:

M10 bolt/nut Prevail Torque: 260in lb
Chemical/Solvent Resistance...Aged under conditions indicated and tested @ 22 °C.
% of initial strength
Environment...........°C....100 h 500 h 1000 h 5000 h
Water/glycol 50/50..87°C 90....90........90......90

So loosing 90% strength its rated to hold about 19.5ft lbs on a M10 steel nut/bolt submerged in antifreeze for 5000hrs. That might be strong enough to hold fine, but after the nuts have been loosened, tightened several times (changing the thermostats out to different temps...etc) it may have issues down the road. I may consider using JB weld as I know it is perminant and can handle the temps, chemicals, & seal no problem. I think it should have plenty of strength to hold the stud in place so it doesn't twist or come out while replacing the thermostat in the future. Hopefully I can get stainless steel studs/nuts so there will not be any corrosion down the road also.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I forgot... I have the second motor, there is a good chance that I have a spare TS housing that I could also send in for the cause. If you wanted to practice on that one with the studs and send it back for beta testing... That would be OK too.

PM me your address, and I'll look tonight. I was planning on starting to part out that motor soon anyway. This gives me some incentive.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks! PM sent. I'll b on later tonight as well.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Stainless studs are a good idea, better stick with 316 instead of 304 or 18-8. The clorides in the road salt will rust the 304 and 18-8, besides 316 shines like chrome.
Should you choose to make your own studs by cutting the heads off bolts or using threaded rod, you will need to passivate the Stainless Steel to remove the surface iron. In industry, the put the small parts into a tank of 10% Citric Acid (by weight in water) and heat it to 140f for one half hour. For large pieces of equipment like I work with or small operations like yours, this is impractical. When I do passivation in the field, I spray the solution on and leave it on for at least two hours, often I just leave it on until it gets rinsed off by rain or housekeeping operations. For your operation if you don't have a buddy who works at a Soda Pop bottling plant, food factory that uses Citric Acid, or some industrial processing facility, here are some other sources. Lemons or Limes that are no longer good enough for your Tequila, Mountain Dew that has gone out dated or flat, other Soda Pop that has citric acid toward the top of the list on the label. Soak the parts over night and rinse off and the job is done. Hydrochloric Acid will have the opposite effect and make the Stainless Steel rust worse than doing nothing, been there done that. Nitric Acid works great, but if you buy some, BATFE will want to see more than your gun collection, even if you don't have one. Plus Home Land Security will be checking your email, your house, and who you hang out with. If you buy Nitric Acid, let me suggest you either be a Chemist or hang out with some buddies that enjoy a good brew and have it documented by credit card transactions, terrorists have an aversion to adult beverages that are created by using good bacteria. If you are a Biodiesel Home Brewer and have Nitric Acid around, you better have a good Lawyer when Home Land Security shows up.
The JB Weld will work great for the thermostat studs, figure in a 5000PSI shear strength for stud retention if you like playing with the calculations. If you use Loctite with Stainless Steel and want it to work in the foreseeable future, use some chlorinated brake cleaner for the accelerator.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I was pretty much sold on the JB weld when I looked at the stats yesterday, plus it is COMPLETELY inert to chemicals so it won't be weaker in antifreeze like the threadlocker. As far as the stainless, well that just makes good sense. Hopefully I will be able to find studs the correct length in 316 Stainless and not have to do any cutting to specific lengths. I can also work with the intermediate plate depth or drill/tap the holes a bit deeper to make the studs meet at the length I need so I SHOULD be able to avoid cutting the studs.

As far as passivating to remove the surface iron, I'm pretty sure you were saying I would only need to do that if the studs were cut, correct? Just want to verify. And I think Cocoa Cola is the highest in Citric Acid content for the sodas...just a guess.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Mountain Dew is the highest, it causes Dew Rot in teeth, worse than Coke. Passivation is only needed if you cut or grind Stainless Steel. Any Stainless Steel bolts or studs you buy come passivated already. McMaster Carr has a very good assortment and maintains Quality Control on what they sell. The strength of 316 bolts are comparable to Grade 5 or 8.8 metric. 304 and 18-8 are a little better than Grade 2 (bolt wood together quality).

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Sounds good. I'll see what is available to ensure a quality finished product.

The aluminum shipped out yesterday so should be here soon enough (timing belt and parts shipped thursday also ). I am doing the timing belt/water pump next weekend so hopefully everything will be ready by then for the install all at once. Also going to send in my ECU to GDE for the HOT tune while the jeep is apart and should have it back by Monday after everything is done. I kinda wish I had a spare ECU to compare temps with a scan tool to that of the stock tune as well. I talked to Keith at GDE today and he recommended the 192* thermostat since I'll have the option. Might even bump my winter economy up a bit.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I haven't machined the intermediate plate yet, but I think I'm going to need two 361 stainless steel M6 x 1.0mm pitch studs (25mm and 50mm in length). So thats $ 8.83 ea for the long ones and $7.87 ea for the shorter ones from McMaster - Carr plus shipping.

That adds another 17.00+ to the parts list unless theres a cheaper option for those sizes. I will look locally to see if theres a cheaper option. On the bright side, he nuts from the same place with the same steel are $8.23 for a pack of 50 so only $0.17 ea

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

What is your price on the 316 M6 threaded rod? With all the Mexican markets (some good authentic food sources) in my area they put limes on sale and 1 Lime or Lemon will passivated a hand full of studs, even if you squeeze most of the juice into your drink.
Fastenal may have a better price on 316 M6 threaded rod and if they are local, you can pick it up and save on shipping.

A hole saw may save a bunch of machining time on the intermediate plate. then you could finish off the ID with your lathe. I have used Carbide tipped hole saws to bore holes into stainless steel, use cutting oil if you heat your shop and WD-40 if it is cold and you don't.

Good luck

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

We do have a Fastenal in town (Colorado Springs) so I will check there and Ace Hardware to see if i can get them in bulk or cheaper. 316 SS threaded rod is only $16.80 for a 2 meter rod from McMaster-Carr and should make about 20 sets of studs (2000mm/100mm=20 sets of studs). That comes out to $0.84 per set, much much cheaper...just a bit more labor to cut/grind the ends/passivate, but thats ok, my labor is free...lol.

As far as the hole saw, I already ordered aluminum tube that is 3" OD and 2in ID to save machining time and cost so we can negate that step .

**Update** Just ordered the hardware from McMaster-Carr as they are the best deal for cost/quality. Hopefully they will arrive before I am finished with my timing belt/waterpump swap so I don't have to change the thermostat assembly at a seperate time and waste coolant.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I'm really interested to see how this all shakes out. I think both of my CRDs are running cool.

I don't really see why the studs have to be stainless. Seems like it really jacks up the cost and making them out of allthread takes a lot of time. I have used studs from BMW for various projects on that car and they are cheap and readily available. Any dealer can order them up for you. I just search realoem.com with google for the size and find the part number.

Stud bolt, M6X25-ZN, 07129908100, $0.20
Stud bolt, M6X50, 07129908106, $0.60

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.