Here's some pics of me changing out the clutch on my KJ, mine is a 2.5 CRD but for a 2.4 or a 3.7 there should be little difference (besides the flywheel....
)
It took me 5 hours to complete the job, that includes coffee and smoke breaks.
New flywheel : LUK 415 0152 10 (note: the pilot bearing comes with the flywheel)
Clutch plate : LUK 327 0042 10
Pressure plate: LUK 127 0024 10
Pressure bearing: LUK 500 0550 10
You need a hoist, it's to much of a hassle to do this on the ground
In my case we started taking of the skids, then the driveshafts
Then the transfer shifter cable and the slave cilinder
When you have all the cables and connectors off, you can take the support beam out. Remember to support the gearbox with a special jack before you do!
On the KJ the gear leaver is fixed with 4 bolts, take them out when you lowered the gearbox a little.
Then you can take the bolts out that hold the bellhousing on the engine
Now we can push the gearbox off the engine, make sure it's supported well by the jack, the transfer case may make it want to 'turn' and you don't want that
And now we have the gearbox and transfer case out of the KJ
Ok, now we can see the old clutch, there are 6 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel
If you are not going to reuse the pressureplate (recommended!) you can bang it out with the airgun. If not, you need to loosen the bolts little by little by hand so the pressure plate won't warp.
Here we have the old stuff
And the flywheel
IF you have a CRD, this is a so called 'Bi-mass' flywheel most modern vehicles (well overhere) have, it serves to reduce vibrations. If you want to check yours, mark a point on the flywheel and rotate it. If it passes 5 to 8 teeth on the starter gear it's worn out and needs to be replaced
New
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiwcG_96qDkWorn out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7DaYxobP3AThe air gun comes in handy again, bolts are TORX btw
So, now we have a naked rear end of the CRD engine. As you can see the startermotor is attached to the engine itself so no need to take it out too.
Now we will start fitting the new clutch and flywheel
Clean out the bellhousing, sand the contact surface between gearbox and engine
Mount the new pressure bearing, don't forget to put some good grease in the sleeve
You can just 'click' in the clutch fork, meaning you first fit the clip back and then push the fork in place
Here we fit the new flywheel
Torque spec is 81-88 Nm
Use some blue Loc-tite on the bolts
Clean the flywheel, make sure it has no grease etc
Use a special tool to align the clutch plate, if you are of center the gearbox primary shaft will not align with the pilot bearing and you will not be able to get the gearbox back in place...
Now tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts in a circular motion litlle by little to 32Nm
Now we can bring the gearbox back in position and slide it into the new clutch
Refit the bellhousing bolts, rotate them by hand a couple of turns first so you know they are not going to cross thread.
Refit the gear leaver / 4 bolts.
Jack up the gearbox and refit the gearbox support beam
Now we can refit the slave cilinder, transfer shifter cable and electrical connectors. Put some grease on the rear prop shaft splines.
And we end where we started, refitting the skid plate
Here is a close up of the N3550.
A.- Gearbox breather
B.- Transfer case breather, funny enough this one does have a tube that is fixed by a top bolt of the bellhousing (so sits right behind the cilnder head(-s)
C.- Reverse switch
D.- Transfer case position sensor
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