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 Post subject: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:55 pm 
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Location: Toledo Ohio
So I purchased the whole kit to do the 100K service on my 2006, cost about $750 shipped. I was not able to find on any website or even the mitchell1 pay car repair website adequate instructions to change the water pump. So here is my stab at a particularly difficult way to accomplish the timing belt and water pump change. I endeavored to not have to take off the intake cam sprocket and was able to get away with only removing the exhaust cam sprocket! In doing so I incurred quite a bit more work for myself, but I had neither cam locking pins nor the cam pulley locking holder. So I was willing to incur extra work, that can be done with hand tools, rather than wait weeks for right tools. total i have about 30 hours of work on it, some being thinking, most wrenching.

I saw that the timing belt was giving off some rubber dust, especially around the injection pump. it must take alot of power to run that thing and it shows by eating up the belt. I suggest that perhaps the next belt should go on at 160,000K miles not 200,000K. what do others think?

To summarize the following instructions, I removed the exhaust manifold and that enabled me to reach the one hidden water pump bolt, then with the exhaust cam sprocket removed its possible, very hard still, to pull the rear timing cover away from the engine sufficiently to wiggle the water pump in and out. I will also generate a post with instruction with how and what in replace the mechanical fan with a electric. I purchased to install a 2400 CFM fan and a thermostatic fan controller (only $140 total), so that the mechanical fan never goes back on. However once change I did was in process of replacing the thermostat, so if someone foolishly chooses to follow these instructions they can duplicate the modification.

follow these instructions as you see fit, i know this is not the best way to do this job, its just the way i did. so take this for what it is.

I have 5 PDFs that would be helpful, but i have no way of hosting them up, so PM me if you can host up please.

Instructions to replace water pump and timing belt:

Drain all coolant
remove 2x 10mm bolts from overflow bottle
undo hoses
remove coolant overflow bottle

remove clutch and fan and remove with fan shroud. (or remove radiator and pull fan support bearing out whole) use loops rope to hold pulley without damaging unit. (i suggest removing the radiator first so that is does not get damaged)

remove serpentine belt
remove PS drive pulley (3x10mm)
remove idler pulleys (two are reverse threads)
remove crank damper bolts (4x13mm)
remove viscous heater (2x13mm, 1x10mm)
remove all the outer TB bolts (17x7mm)

remove heat shields on exhaust manifold (13mm)
undo turbo V-band (10mm)
undo turbo oil feed line (watch for copper gaskets)(15mm)
undo turbo drain line (2x 8mm bolts)
undo turbo-manifold bolts (4x13mm)
undo turbo bracket (1x10mm)

remove oil feed line at block (~21mm)
pull drain line out of block

remove exhaust manifold bolts, 13mm
undo EGR tube (flat head V-band)
push EGR tube back and slide manifold off

undo PS pump mounting bracket (3x 13mm)


use 6mm key to lock crankshaft to flex plate (by oil filter)

in order to make your own cam locking pins go to home depot and buy two M10-1.0x50mm bolts and one m10-1 nut, grind the end of the bolt into a narrow point and rotate the screw while grinding (using the nut as a bearing) to keep the point centered on the bolt. Also if you drop one of the cam locking pin plugs simply buy two M10-1x20mm bolts and some plastic washers, done.

Image
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Mark with a black sharpie the location of the cam sprockets, injection pump and crankshaft pulley

Image

install exhuast cam locking pin, and make sure the camshaft cannot move at all.
remove exhaust cam sporket bolt (only the bolt) and mark the sprocket hub to the camshaft with alignment marks

Image

undo all the rear timing belt bolts, 4 small ones and three big ones.

undo 4x WP bolts 13mm combo wrench)

Image

pull rear TB shield forward and work WP off of the studs (make sure both alignment dowels come out of WP mount)

clean block with scotch pad

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install water pump and torque bolts to 24.4 nm

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install exhaust cam sproket with blue locktite, torque to 108 nm (80lbft)
install TB rear cover bolts (10mm bolts 45 nm – 8mm 10.8nm) with blue locktite
install TB tensioner loosely (do this WITHOUT the belt being looped on it, the factory helicoil is EASY to damage)
install intake side TB idler pulley (47/35 nm/lbft)
loop belt on all pulleys, use wedges to hold belt into the teeth between sprockets and inner TB cover
install exhaust side idler pulley, torque to (47/35 nm/lbft)
use two 3mm keys, or other tool to twist tensioner to correctly pre-tension, rotate engine clockwise to seat belt and re-tension as needed . Tighten the tensioner bolt to (36/25) nm/lbft



screw in 17x outer timing cover bolts with blue loctite and torque to 6 nm.
Install fan support bearing 4x 13mm torque to (47/35) nm/lbft
install PS pump pulley bolts and dampener bolts (27/21)


install pump inlet housing with new gasket (connect oil cooler hose first)(don't over tighten these bolts, the spec that I had was wrong and I stripped the new pump housing!!!)(i drilled and tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt to fix)

assemble in reverse order except for notes*
*clean turbo inlet copper gasket mating surfaces and tighten BEFORE tightening the oil supply line to block connection
*I could not find a torque sequence for the exhaust manifold, so I tightened from the center out.
*Triple check all heater hoses and clamps 1) they are connected 2) that the clamp is on right.
*I got tired of populating torque values so please get values off of the attached PDFs
*install belt tensioner BEFORE the PS pulley
*if the alternator de-coupler pulley is being replaced a no-tool way to get it off the alternator is to weld a piece of metal to the pulley and whack it (using the inertia of the alternators armature to 'hold' the shaft still) hit the metal chunk in the anti-clockwise direction.
*When installing the accessory belt loop it on the alternator last.
*Check the antifreeze protection of the coolant if its being reused. I mixed the old coolant and new Prestone (any color style) together and made sure it was -50F protected.

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this is the mod i did for the electric fan, i put a coolant temp probe right into the thermostat housing, in the thickest part of the aluminum. Like i indicated i'll do a full write up of the electric fan mod in a different post.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 7:41 am 
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Great write up! Thanks, that clears up my doubt if you really had to take the entire T-belt back plate of the engine to remove the waterpump. :D

On the other hand, if you take of the front plate, you can leave the exhaust manifold in place...Image

For the 2002-2004 KJ CRD's the T-belt interval is 62K miles. They changed it to 100k miles in 2005.

But the engine stayed the same...

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Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 1:36 pm 
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Great writeup - although I question this

Quote:
Check the antifreeze protection of the coolant if its being reused. I mixed the old coolant and new Prestone (any color style) together and made sure it was -50F protected.


The original was a HOAT - special hybrid that does not mix well with non-hybrid.
I think Zerox G05 or Mopar are the only allowed coolants.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:55 pm 
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Location: Toledo Ohio
Good question about the coolant, here is a response from a Honeywell scientist to the question of will Prestone work in the CRD. I can forward any follow up questions on to him if needed.

"The Prestone coolant is a HOAT coolant (hybrid organic acid technology) which would contain silicates (usually organo-modified triethoxysilanes), organic carboxylates, various azoles or nitrogen containing compounds and a lot of other components that aid anti-corrosion and compatibility with various coolants. I’ve been up to the Danbury Labs a couple of times and after seeing their test capabilities would trust whatever they claim regarding performance and durability. They are experts at formulation; they would have tested compatibility with everything under the sun. They also have a lot of test vehicles and do pretty extensive lab testing using pretty sophisticated equipment.

The durability claim would come from their use of sophisticated anti-corrosion additives in the coolant. The organo-triethoxysilane is an active crosslinking agent which would essentially glom onto metal surfaces in the cooling system and make it hydrophobic and reduce oxidation. I’m pretty sure they’re also using metals known to be effective at protecting against corrosion. They also use a mixture of all kinds of glycols and derivatives which would aid compatibility with other coolants."


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Well - having been a Honeywell process engineer - I can recognize a non-answer as well as anyone. All he said was that he has confidence that Prestone knows what they're doing - okay - Did he ask them if it was compatible?

I do give Phd folks enough credit that if you ask a specific straight question...you'll probably get a straight answer but it's commonly that they don't know..... or they have to do more research.. unless it was about their Theisis in which they can talk for hours....

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:45 am 
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This is from 2006, but seems to still be valid.

"Honeywell's claim that Prestone can be used in vehicles of 'all makes, all models' was not substantiated." http://www.gohtsn.com/article_321.shtml

The comment from Honeywell engineer ""The Prestone coolant is a HOAT coolant (hybrid organic acid technology) which would contain silicates..." doesn't match what I've noticed and is the first and only time I've come across this claim. Does anyone have other evidence to back up this statement?


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:31 am 
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I think that I've got some pretty solid evidence that it's not worth taking the risk with "unapproved" coolants - in the form of a radiator that's packed solid with gummy snot! The best I can figure is that somewhere along the line someone topped off the system with something other than true HOAT.

See this thread - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=58582

If I were adding coolant to a system that I was sure still contained the factory coolant, I would use only the Mopar stuff. If I was doing a complete flush and refill - I'd then refill with either the Mopar or Zerex G-05. Also - if I had a system that I knew someone had added even a little of the wrong coolant to - I think I'd have it completely flushed and refilled with the right stuff. If you wait 10,000 miles - who knows what it will do. I talked to some folks in the lab at a company that makes cooling system cleaners & conditioners - they tell me that adding the wrong stuff to a HOAT system can have catastrophic effects almost immediately.

Deep-cleaning the system and replacing the radiator is a real P.I.T.A!

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Fumoto, Samco, V6 airbox and nylon fan, Gen 2 fuel head, Kennedy lift pump, Magnaflow, Autometer EGT, boost and trans temp gauges, DieHard P5, BFG 235/75-16 Long Trail TA's, PowerStop brakes & Prodigy P3, AirCoils, Euro TC, GDE FT Eco Tune

2005 Liberty CRD Limited
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2011 17' Casita Spirit Deluxe


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 2:16 pm 
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TonyCRD, I see you have an option to get the water pump out without removing exhaust manifold. My 06 GDE CRD is stripped, the timing belt is off and I'd appreciate if I could avoid that manifold option.

As for the coolant, it is important to use diesel [sleeved engine] rated quality, red color. Regular coolant causes oxidation or rusting where different kinds of metals are mated. That is my simplified understanding of it, how it was explained to me.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:20 pm 
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TheImaginaryMe - you've made it to the worst part of the whole timing belt / water pump job. I just did the job on my '06. Still needing to do the job on my '05 - I made lots of notes and photos the first time around. This part of the job is not documented anywhere that I could find.

You've got the belt off. I assume that you got the tools from GDE and have the cams locked in place? If so, you can remove the cam sprockets, etc... allowing you to remove the timing belt rear cover. Once this is done - three of the four nuts that hold the WP onto the studs protruding from the block can be reached fairly easily with a standard 13mm box end. The forth nut (bottom left when looking from passenger side) is nearly impossible to get to. After trying every possible u-joint, wobble extension, crows foot, etc - you'll realize that the "water manifold" needs to be removed from the back of the WP, allowing you to slip a 13mm socket on an extension between the back of the WP and the water manifold, gaining access to the tough nut. (the water manifold is what the lower hose and a bunch of other hoses attach to)

Getting at the three small bolts that hold the manifold onto the back of the WP is no easy job either. Take your time and use an 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive, various extensions, open and box ends, etc. A big magnet to catch falling bits and tools is really handy.

When I did this job, I was also replacing the t-stat and doing some other work - so I took off a lot more stuff than was probably necessary - coolant tank, alternator, almost every heater hose. There was one hose that connected to the bottom of the water manifold that was really had to get to - so once you get the manifold loose from the pump, it just kinda hangs there on this hose. I've found that in the long run - it was probably way easier to label and remove everything possible, than it would have been to fight my way through all those hoses and stuff to get at the water pump.

It's pretty obvious that all this stuff was assembled before they dropped the motor in. I miss working on the old CJ where you could take the whole front grill and fenders off!

Good luck!

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Fumoto, Samco, V6 airbox and nylon fan, Gen 2 fuel head, Kennedy lift pump, Magnaflow, Autometer EGT, boost and trans temp gauges, DieHard P5, BFG 235/75-16 Long Trail TA's, PowerStop brakes & Prodigy P3, AirCoils, Euro TC, GDE FT Eco Tune

2005 Liberty CRD Limited
Flipped Spare

2011 17' Casita Spirit Deluxe


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:53 pm 
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Thanks for the quick response, yes I was in process of getting at the 8mm screws when I dropped my 1/4 inch drive with the rest and can't find it. [skid plate must come off now]. I was almost at the point trying to loosen the manifold without taking it off and try to pull it away, just enough to fit open end, etc in between the head to get at the screw.
Time to get 1/4 inch drive set for more reach options. Now I know it can be done, so I'll keep trying.

Thanks again!!! :)

So I did it, Saturday morning it was done. it is a pain. To my surprise and looking and trying I found out that all you need is 8mm deep socket 1/4 inch with a ratchet on it. That takes care of two screws, the third one gets out with open end wrench. The rest is easy. Have bunch of pics if anyone wants to see any of it. :BANANA:

Here is followup on rest of my mods if you are interested: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=63697&p=703778#p703778

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO: change CRD water pump and timing belt (no tools)
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:18 am 
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I use the very same coolant in my 2.8 CRD that I use in my previous Cummins ISX and my current Detroit Series 60 engines... the red Extended Live Coolant that is under the Rotella Ultra ELC, Delo ELC, Final Charge ELC, Detoit Power Cool ELC, etc brand names.

This type of product is designed specifically to provide maximum protection for wet sleeve liners and virtually eliminate cavitation problems. No supplementary coolant additives needed, and the products are good for 6 years or 600,000 miles, whichever comes first. It is the product that is recommended by the Technology and Maintenance Council, the de facto standards committee regarding fleet operated commercial vehicles from pickups to class 8 semi tractors with wet sleeved diesel engines. And it provides maximum water pump lubrication and aluminum protection also.

Others may do so, but I am not up to playing "what if" games regarding coolants. This type of coolant is the top end of the food chain regarding engine coolants. Easy to obtain from any truck stop or truck parts supply. Sure, it is a little pricier than something you could get at Wally World, but come on, we are only talking a few gallons of 50/50 mix here. People will spend all kinds of cash on fancy mods and such, but will quibble over a few gallons of a high quality product they hardly ever have to change. Go figure. If it is the best product for my engines that individually cost more than my Jeep Liberty CRD did, then it is good enough to go into the CRD also.

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2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.


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