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| Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=70159 |
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| Author: | greiswig [ Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Just found this thread via several layers of searching. I'll have to take advantage of the excellent content shortly: I had to order Etecno plugs after one of mine finally failed at 130k. Just wanted to publicly thank Squeeto and others for their generous help in posting a play by play like this. Big, big help. Debating whether or not to pony up for the Samco hoses at the same time now... |
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| Author: | FrankCastle [ Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Just a couple of words of wisdom for the unlucky ones who, like me today, are going to change their glow plugs. My mechanic was able to reach nr.3 just unscrewing the EGR pipe, shifting it backward and reaching back for the glow plug. Pain in the booty, I give you that, but you save a lot of time. Cheers |
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| Author: | Billwill [ Sun Feb 02, 2014 3:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
FrankCastle wrote: Just a couple of words of wisdom for the unlucky ones who, like me today, are going to change their glow plugs. My mechanic was able to reach nr.3 just unscrewing the EGR pipe, shifting it backward and reaching back for the glow plug. Pain in the booty, I give you that, but you save a lot of time. Cheers Does this not only apply to the Export CRDs which have a different EGR setup? 
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| Author: | FrankCastle [ Mon Feb 17, 2014 4:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Nope... It does apply actually. I own an export one indeed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | Monomer [ Sat Aug 29, 2015 2:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Thanks! this guide was perfect! Replaced GP #3 (actually, in the process of still) Pulling the controller to check is a nice trick, saved a lot of hassle. Just be sure to check if the harness is on the right way! (mine was) Should I be worried about the other three? Usually when one go's, the rest arnt far behind. It's a bit off, as these wernt done too long ago, as the PO has the GDR tune for 5v plugs and new plugs around 50k ago. (I would guess) So thankfull I dont have to deal with the ceramics. |
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| Author: | Monomer [ Sat Aug 29, 2015 6:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Also: I did most of this work with a Wera 1/4 kit. It really did make this a bit easier. It allowed me to drop the intake elbow from above with little issue. Highly recommended |
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| Author: | kidjedi [ Sat Jan 07, 2017 6:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Squeeto wrote: Good glow plugs are .5 to 1.5 ohms measured cold. The truck will throw trouble codes P1260 to P1267 when the plugs go bad. Typically the bad plug will read in the hundreds of ohms. I am assuming the last sentence means that if a glow plug is bad, the ohms number will be very high. I just did this and my readings are: .3, .3, .3, .5 I am under the impression that this means I am getting low voltage, not necessarily that the glow plugs are bad (though they could be). I'm just trying to make sure my GP's are actually bad before I go through the trouble of removing the EGR and Alternator to replace them. It seems like I might have a bad glow plug wire harness (not necessarily bad glow plugs)? |
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| Author: | flash7210 [ Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Low resistance = high current = more heat. If you are testing just the harness, resistance should be lower than a glow plug. Maybe the connector isn't tight enough? |
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| Author: | aaronguy2k1 [ Sat Jun 24, 2017 8:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Glow plug #4 doesn't have a plastic cap. I imagine what I see attached is the guts inside the cap, just not sure how to deal with it. I've already changed 1-3. Don't know if a facebook link will work, but... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =3&theater |
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| Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Just use a 90 degree pick, and pull opposite the wire attachment. That, or simply remove the glow plug with the wire still attached. Replace the glow plug loom when off. |
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| Author: | aaronguy2k1 [ Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
I managed to reach in there with pliers, I'm just concerned about it sitting like that. I was showing P1267 and P163 which prompted me to change them, but I don't know which the problem one(s) were. #1 was covered in sludge on the outside and #4 has that, but the tips all looked the same. |
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| Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
May as well replace them all, especially if they are the original ceramic type. http://www.idparts.com/glow-plug-harness-liberty-crd-p-3357.html That is a new OEM loom. If price is a significant factor, check salvage yards for 05-06 CRDs. [edit] make sure to get your codes reset. Any codes connected with emissions won't reset themselves. [edit] P1263 - glow plug #2 control circuit low P1267 - glow plug #4 control circuit low |
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| Author: | aaronguy2k1 [ Sun Jun 25, 2017 1:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
I did change them all. Reading about it I knew I didn't want to get in there more than once. I think someone took the elbow off before and left a couple things loose, possible contributing to the sludge outside #1. I was also missing the 2 bolts behind the elbow, opposite the cable bracket. I was too pissed by the time I got to anything where pictures would have been useful, but I'll add what I can. When taking the elbow off of the manifold, I removed the 2 outside screws, the broke the other 2 loose from the bottom. I could then reach around and remove the rear inside one (worried about dropping everything inside the engine bay). From there I turned the elbow backward and off the EGR pipe, and could remove the front inside screw by hand. Getting that one back in to start was a pain, I only dropped it 6-7 times while trying to hold the elbow and line up the first screw and turn without the gasket coming off. Once in, I got them all started from the top, and then torqued back from the bottom. Lining up the extension train is not easy. I pulled the battery and tray out to get working room. The fuel filter I took the bracket off the rear wall and just shifted it one slot to the right and put a nut back on, that gave me mostly enough room to get around without having to remove any lines. I have a dewalt right angle adapter as well as a flexible extension. I used both, sometimes together, to get everything past the FCV. Glow plug caps (where they existed) came off easily with combination pliers. No problem removing the plugs themselves once I could get at them (I think 2 owners ago was probably a member here and put stuff on all the things) I recommend as many pairs of tiny hands as you can legally manage. |
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| Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
I can sympathize with that to an extent, but I had to replace the head, and all that stuff went on during the re-assemblly. No more EGR or FCV in the way. Honestly, I doubt having the rubber cap/elbow off will pose problems, other than being exposed to splashed water, etc. It's only powered when the glow plugs are, so about a minute during cold startup, tops. The likelihood of anything shorting across it is pretty small. Putting the manifold - elbow stub on wasn't a problem for me, since the valve cover was off, but I can see how it would be a pain if done in place. |
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| Author: | Hankwesty19 [ Mon Mar 25, 2019 8:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
Thank you to the op and all those who contributed to this thread, I have a code 1267 so will check wiring first but will change all 4 plugs as I have no record of Jeep ever replacing the originals. The dealer replaced plug 3 (5142577AA)* and wire (5142576AA)* per code po673 back in 03/27/06 under warranty, labor time not listed on receipt. Am planning to go with 7 volt as I live down here in Tx. *part #'s? |
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| Author: | jreaper7 [ Sat Oct 05, 2019 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
So, i'm currently on the adventure of replacing my glow plugs. Last guy tightened the eff out of everything but the alternator bracket... service records state the glow plugs were replaced in 2011 by a jeep dealership. not touched since... alternator bracket bolts were nearly loose enough to unscrew by hand... i can't get the bracket off the bottom of the intake elbow for the hose that connects to it, so i am working around the elbow with it still connected to that bracket... the bolt is so tight that i've nearly stripped it twice just trying to remove it... a: is the intake elbow gasket ok to reuse? i do not currently have a replacement and new to crd's... so i kind of assumed it was a metal reusable one. b: whoever replaced them last over torqued the glow plugs. are they supposed to tighten down to the nut or just until you can't see any threads? service manual is vague on this. c: #1 had a chipped thread and was difficult to thread in without a bit of force applied to the ratchet. 110 in lbs was not going to happen with #1... 110in. lbs would've left half the threads sticking out of the bore... after threading i pulled it back out just to make sure the threads inside the cylinder head and the plug weren't pulling or cross threading... they didn't. but again it was not as easy as "tighten by hand" to get it back in... d: i've seen in another post to not use anti-seize on the thread... it uses the head for ground the post stated... but here people say to use it... so is it ok to use or not? e: was there supposed to be an o-ring on the threaded side of the plug? or just the connector side? i want to make sure to put this together right this time... as whoever did it before when it was switched over to 5v steel plugs in 2011 i'm sure did it wrong. it literally feels like everything was put together with an impact and air ratchet. i'm sure it shouldn't have taken a good part of the day just to get access to the plugs... and looking at the factory service manual, nothing should have been as tight as it was... but this is also my first go at it. |
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| Author: | GordnadoCRD [ Sun Oct 06, 2019 5:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Glow Plug Inspection, Remove and Replace |
A: I re-used mine, with a very thin coating of high temp silicone. No issues. B: Thread in until the taper seats against the head. (see C:) The torque spec is very very slight. As in INch-lbs. 110, to be exact (12.5 Newton-Meters) C: Might be worthwhile to get a tap or thread chaser to GENTLY run in by hand. D: The official SAE stand is to not use anything, but I've used both permatex and loctite brand Copper-based anti-seize with no ill effects. IMO it's at least as important to put a bit on the tapered seat just thread-ward of the heated tip, as it is on the threads. If this sticks too hard, the body (shell) of the plug between this seat and the hex drive will crumple and twist in two. E: No gaskets, seals, or o-rings past the one for the electrical terminal. Now, In case you come across this, some glow plugs, when properly torqued, compress slightly, making a gap where the electrical terminal seal is located, and the terminal it's self will wobble slightly when moved by hand. This was an issue with the ones I installed nearly 4 years ago, and in spite of my concerns, have performed flawlessly since. |
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