jrsavoie's CRD rebuild

JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

I'm in the middle of doing an engine replacement for jrsavoie

Basic premise;
Dealership received motor from jrsavoie's brother 2 days before it was to be traded in with a "running rough" situation.
Dealership tech did not pull a compression check, simply began disassembly on motor, down to shortblock.
Tech lost head gasket, did not organize bolts, left as a sensored word case.

Problems actual:
14 failed rocker rollers. 12 with 1/8" play in rollers, 2 seized.
lash adjusters just outside of spec

Since it would be over $2000 in parts to fix, and it would still have 140,000 miles, best bang for the buck was to put a Mopar reman in. My dealership got it to me for $5400 with tax. It is yet to arrive, and the parts list isn't very...shall we say, specific, on what it includes. We shall see, but I cannot imagine that since it does have the rear timing cover, timing pulleys, adjuster, h20 pump, injectors, that it will have the injector pump and timing belt as well.

In the process of this project, I am cleaning out the entire engine bay. Working on these is easiest with the whole suspension out of the jeep, so getting it to that point is first order of business.

Then, service.
Trans filter kit and new fluid
Transfercase service
Rear driveshaft Ujoints
Front and rear diff fluid, mopar.
Check and service brakes
Check and service turbo
Install reman motor, set to spec.
All new fluids for drivetrain, steering, etc.
Remove amp/sub wiring
Install GDE eco tune
Install bypass oil filter

I will be doing much preventatively on this as well....copper core sealant on glow plugs to lubricate for future service, etc.

This is my first venture into these 2.8l's, but I have plenty of experience with Cat, Detroit, Cummins, and Renault (my first truck was an 86 MJ 2.1l Renault TD) so the crossover on concepts makes that a non-issue, especially with the correct timing tools.

Before I get into pictures in the next day or so, The only question that I will have is proper break-in procedure on the new motor. Help on that would be appreciated.

user113 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 23, 2013 10:39 pm

According to the owner's manual:

Quote:

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine in your new vehicle.

Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in. Wide open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. The recommended viscosity and quality grades are shown in Section 7 of this manual. NON-DETERGENT OR STRAIGHT MINERAL OILS MUST NEVER BE USED.

A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty.

JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

Thanks!

Just a tidbit from PM with geordi on advice plus where I'm at in the project.

geordi wrote:

JeepCoMj wrote:

Hey Jim,

Thanks for everything so far. I've got everything pretty well figured out now.

Last thing, though, before I can get this thing installed, is the flexplate drive adapter (crankshaft to flexplate adapter).

The FSM insinuates that the adapter to crank bolts are TTY bolts by torque procedure then degree turn after backing them off. That being the case, I'm hesitant to reuse them. What would you suggest?

Just waiting on two new EGR tube clamps, new plugs for the cam lock tool holes (previous tech lost one and put an ASE thread plug in...idiot), and putting flexplate in (I did thumb it on to check lockout...it is off by 1/16" but from my understanding that is within spec as I haven't locked the tensioner in yet on the timing belt)

Tomorrow I will be checking band adjustment in the trans while it's sitting on the engine stand, cleaning, and painting it and the transfercase, as well as installing the Euro torque converter and new trans pump seal.

If you care to read, here's my thread on previous KJ's just to show you what I am capable of;

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f222/02-lib ... ion-53070/

Thanks for all of the help so far!

Honestly... You are beyond my knowledge when it comes to the flex plate and the transmission. All I can say is best of luck with that part.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks Jim,

There is an adapter hub on the crankshaft bolted on with recessed E series TTY bolts, then the flexplate bolts to the adapter with T50 torx bolts.

Procedure to install adapter hub:
Install all bolts thumb tight
Torque to 35 ft/lbs, in a crossing clockwise rotation
Loosen first bolt. Retorque to 19 ft/lbs plus 60 degrees.
Repeat for each bolt continuing in crossing clockwise rotation

Then the flexplate itself is fairly straightforward...torque to spec (haven't done that yet) using the crossing clockwise rotation, and you're done.

Flywheel housing bolts (6 of them) to block are 37 ft/lb torque, lower 4 are 13mm head, upper two are 9mm Allen.

I followed a pretty thorough write-up on injector pump timing, as well as Sir Sam's (CoRobotchicken on youtube) belt # 5 video to ensure I was at TDC # 1 with cams locked via gear lock plus pins and crank lock pin installed with flexplate just thumbed on.

injector pump returns to timing mark on 6th rotation, as described, with it being 60 degrees off on the 3rd rotation.

tensioner tightened to 28 ft/lbs, though the book calls for 22 (followed your spec). Zero issues with helicoil.

Since all the advised marks were hit, and everything looked good/to general consensus spec, I racked the motor on the engine stand and installed the motor mounts, oil dipstick. Waiting on new EGR clamps and cam pin plugs to be done on the sides of the motor.

Need to clean injectors, install new copper washers and O-rings, figure out how to locate them in the correct hole, install, and put rail to injector lines on.

Trans is cleaned/painted/resealed with new full filter kit (including spin-on)

Tcase to be cleaned tomorrow.
Front suspension X-member/cradle to be pressure washed and have new diff fluid put in tomorrow.

Then tomorrow night, with a helping hand, everything should get bolted together on the cradle. From there, I need to install the bypass filter fittings before it can all go back in the jeep.

Thanks Jim!

JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

Started it yesterday. Finally. I have had to put off finishing it for a long time (too long) because of all the delays in parts ordering, and that taking me straight into the busy season of my business.

New parts on it;
Engine and all associated moving parts except turbo and ip.
Glow plugs
Euro torque converter
JBA upper a arms
Front brakes (rotors, pads)
Rear brakes (rotors, pads, calipers, ebrake pads and hardware)
Rear axle seals and wheel bearings
Driveshaft cv joints up front, Ujoints in rear
Airtek lift pump
Samco hoses
All filters
Bypass oil filter

We also adjusted the bands and did a lot of detail paint work underneath the skin, removed the catalytic converter in favor of straight pipe, cleaned a lot, and had a full detail done.

Looks beautiful. Going in for alignment and ac recharge today

Still need to replace battery, running my optima blue top for now.

JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

Test drive went beautiful. Then I parked it outside. And now the starter does not work. After testing all circuits, I am positive it is not the battery, cables, connections. Either bad solenoid on starter, or flat spot. Will pull tomorrow and possibly order a rebuild kit instead of new one...new is a week out.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:07 pm

Pictures, or this never happened :p

JeepCoMj · **Joined:** Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:54 pm **Posts:** 161

Can't put on the forum with my ipad, will bring laptop home from shop tomorrow. I leave it in my shop for work. Pics and vid of startup are on facebook lost.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:37 am

Cool, thanks, I'll take a look on fb.

connolcj · **Posted:** Tue Apr 22, 2014 11:24 am

I'm not able to find them on facebook. Can you point me in the right direction of where to look, or post some here. I'm getting ready to pull my motor and possibly rebuild it depending on whats wrong. Thanks!

jrsavoie's CRD rebuild

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