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 Post subject: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:40 pm 
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Location: Sumter, SC
Link to the document with the walkthrough, including pictures:
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E ... ile%2cdocx

Thanks to Papaindigo.

Hey Guys,

I had some funny noises right from the steering wheel area, and I started to research what is going on. It sounded like a relay that was going on/off, but very irregular. With acceleration, the noise dissapeared. Since I had the engine mounts already, I said to myself why wouldn't I spend my Sunday under the jeep? :BANANA: So, this is a mini-walkthrough on how I did the replacement.

1. Prerequisites
Required tools: All we need is Metric sockets some breaker bar and extensions
- metric 15 for the shield(s) – engine and/or transmission
- metric 18 (deep and regular) for the engine mount nuts
- at least 2 ft of 1/2 in extension
- 1/2 flex joint
- ratchets and breaking bars.
- some pb blaster can help loosen up the nuts.
Image

2. Removal & Installation
Lift the jeep on jack stands as high as possible. I did not have access to a shop so I had to do this on the floor of my garage, and honestly, as much space you have under the jeep, as easier is to work.
Proceed with removing the Engine shield and/or transmission shield. Transmission shield (if equipped) must be removed to allow more space for the tools and removal of the driver side mount. So unbolt the 4 bolts from engine skid, remove it then loosen up the transmission skid plate bolts from the transmission crossbar. Do not remove them, only loosen them up since the tranny skid will slide to the rear and come out.
Once the skids are out, proceed to one of the mounts, I started with the Driver side since I’ve heard from people it is the hardest to take out. To be honest, it is not much harder than the passenger side (the one with the heat shield), the difficulty in removing it is due to lack of access. You can squeeze the metric 18 regular socket (the deep is too big) with a flex joint and extension through in between the axle and jeep chassis:
Image
I loosened up both sides while under the car, but only remove one (this case driver side) nut, since we need the passenger side mount secured to the engine and chassis till we change the driver side, to make sure the engine will not move left or right while mounts are removed.
Once the lower nut is removed, proceed to the upper driver mount nut. Here we need a deep socket metric 18, since a regular one won’t reach the nut due to the length of the bolt the mount has. BTW, can’t find a reason why they made those bolts so long, it doesn’t make any sense… Mount the deep socked on a flex joint and use at least a 2 ft extension and make your way to the driver mount upper bolt:
Image
Image
Once the top nut gets loosen up and moves to the top of the mount bolt, you will have to pull out the deep socket and replace it with the regular metric 18 socket, since (at least in my case) the deep socket is too tall and touches the FCV body.
Once both nuts are out, get a small piece of wood (I had a leftover from a 2x4), put that under the engine’s oil pan, then raise the driver side of the vehicle little by little, till the upper bolt of the mount has about 1/4 inch left through the engine mount bracket. As a note, this pic is from raising the passenger side of the engine.
Image
Get under the car, grip the mount and raise it up through the engine mount bracket, then slide the bottom of the mount out and pull down the mount to permanently remove it from the car. Replace it with a new one by inserting the top bolt of the mount through the engine mount bracket, then lower it down on the chassis bracket. Once the new mount is in place, lower the engine back to have it sat on the new mount and place both top and bottom nuts while under the car since it easier. Tighten them and then move to the next, passenger side.
Passenger side is a little easier since the lower nut can be removed without any flex joint. Once the lower nut is out, proceed to the top one. Removing the air filter cover would make everything easier. No need to remove the whole box, just take out the cover and the air filter.

Image

Image

Image

I’d like to highlight the importance of properly seating the socket on the nut, especially when using a flex joint it may not be so easy right away, maybe the nut is dirty, or maybe just a bad day, take your time and properly seat the socket on the nut, so it will untie nice and easy, without rounding the edges. Especially with this cramped space in this car’s under the hood, rounding the edges of the nut can result in few more days of work.
Once the passenger side mount is out, replace it with the new one using a similar approach like for the driver one. I’d like to note something, regarding the passenger mount: You can go away ordering 2 driver side mounts, both passenger and driver mounts are identical, the passenger has a heat shield due to exhaust being nearby. Now, in my opinion it is not worth to get 2 driver side mounts to save few bucks, I also ordered 2 driver mounts and had to remove the heat shield from the existing, old passenger side to one of the new driver mounts. Honestly, it is not worth the hassle. The head shield is somehow “stamped” on the engine mount upper bolt, and it won’t come out easy. It is doable, but not worth the wasted time, at least if I had to do it again, I would just get the passenger side as new.
Image
This picture has the heat shield on the new mount, and I ended up using a 1/2 washer to replace the “factory” one that somehow was cracked (and not by me for sure). You can see the factory washer on the top of the upper bolt. The new 1/2 washer would definitely resist better than original.
Overall, this is easy a couple hours job, if you know what to do from the beginning. It took me I think about 4, because every time I end up under the jeep, I start looking at this and that and I zone out for few minutes thinking what else needs attention.
If you have any suggestions to the process, please let me know, so I can edit this post and update it accordingly.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


Last edited by thermorex on Fri May 13, 2016 3:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 1:20 pm 
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First impressions after replacement. Idling, jeep is smoother, does not shake as it used to and feels like a gasser. Steering wheel does not vibrate at all. Driving it, I have no vibrations at all. Looking at the old mounts, other than being a little dirty, they look like new. They also feel strong, but definitely almost 130k on them left the fingerprint.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


Last edited by thermorex on Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Great job. I just followed your directions today, and it worked perfectly. I can't believe I didn't d this sooner.

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Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:19 pm 
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Yea, knowing what to do from the beginning saves some time. Glad you find this useful.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:20 am 
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Getting ready to do this myself, I have both of the mounts already just need to put aside the time to get it done.

I do have one possibly off-topic question though: that oil(?) on the crossmember in the first photo, did that come out of the mount? I have a similar spot on my crossmember and was curious if you knew the source? Are the mounts oil filled? I know some mounts are, but wasn't sure about these.

Thanks for the write up.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:29 pm 
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That oil is from the hose that's closer to the tire (in the pic), it was previously zip-tied there on the cross member where the oily spot is. That hose is the drain from provent, the release valve spits out oil when it's more than 6.4-ish quarts in the engine, nothing related to engine mounts. The mounts are oil filled though. You could have a leak from the intake elbow, you can take look at it, when I replaced the rockers and took the intake out, I found it to be very oily, but had dry oil (previous leak from pre-provent times?), possibly also to have issues with the cac hose from intercooler and have a tiny leak. Or can be some fuel from the fuel head, or some weird leak When you did an oil change and spilled a bit on the engine. I'd wash it then see if to comes back in few days. Oh, btw, I also used a ton of pb blaster, it can be also from it.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:00 am 
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Out of curiosity, were the engine mounts redesigned or is this something that is going to fail every 50000 miles or something. My Jeep only has 53000 miles and it seems like i have all the symptoms of bad mounts.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:13 am 
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mass-hole wrote:
Out of curiosity, were the engine mounts redesigned or is this something that is going to fail every 50000 miles or something. My Jeep only has 53000 miles and it seems like i have all the symptoms of bad mounts.


Quite honestly, mine were fine at about 125-ish. Not as good as the new ones but still ok. The engine idles smoother with the new ones, but not like a "world of difference". I am not sure how long they last, some people reported to go bad after less than 100k, I think it also depends on how one drives, since I only drive Jeeps, I drive pretty conservative, maybe this is why my mounts lasted that long. Not sure if the mounts are redesigned or not, I haven't heard of them being redesigned.

Keep in mind that in your case you could also have the transmission mount getting tired, but you can see that relatively easy by looking under the jeep. If you have cracks in the bushing, it may be time for a new one. It can still be worn/soft and look good, you have to try moving the transmission by hand, while the jeep is lifted, and see if there is a lot of play. Also, I would inspect the drive shafts (from transfer case to front and rear diff), normally they should be lubed every 3-6000 miles (for KJ only the rear one), they are known to make funny noises and have symptoms like you described. You can also make sure if it is a mount by seeing if the symptoms are the same when you go forward or reverse. I think if the passenger mount is bad, going in reverse should cause a noise. Anyways, at 53k, your jeep is new, congrats :pepper:

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


Last edited by thermorex on Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:44 am 
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awesome write-up, thanks! Mine are definitely toast at 164k miles. I guess I might as well replace that squishy transmission mount also. It doesn't have cracks, but is really soft.

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Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:01 pm 
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Mountainman wrote:
awesome write-up, thanks! Mine are definitely toast at 164k miles. I guess I might as well replace that squishy transmission mount also. It doesn't have cracks, but is really soft.


Oh Yea, definitely do the tranny mount, especially since you'll take it out for the Suncoast. You'll soon have a new jeep with all the parts you replace, lol. Good luck!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:08 pm 
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:rockon: I sure hope so, it will be replacing the old 4runner, so I hope to make it as reliable. :JEEPIN:

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 1:27 am 
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thermorex wrote:

Once the lower nut is removed, proceed to the upper driver mount nut. Here we need a deep socket metric 18, since a regular one won’t reach the nut due to the length of the bolt the mount has. BTW, can’t find a reason why they made those bolts so long, it doesn’t make any sense…


Did you consider cutting down the bolts on the replacement mounts? Seems like having shorter studs would make it much easier to remove as well as to install...

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:15 am 
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user113 wrote:
thermorex wrote:

Once the lower nut is removed, proceed to the upper driver mount nut. Here we need a deep socket metric 18, since a regular one won’t reach the nut due to the length of the bolt the mount has. BTW, can’t find a reason why they made those bolts so long, it doesn’t make any sense…


Did you consider cutting down the bolts on the replacement mounts? Seems like having shorter studs would make it much easier to remove as well as to install...


Never thought about it, but other than the hassle doing it, it may prove easier to take the nuts out. Personally, I think it's more work cutting the bolt and grinding a bit from the sides to allow the nut to go in easy than just get a long socket. But for some folks it may work the extra work...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 4:53 pm 
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Looks like I get to take on this job next weekend... Any torque specs on the mount bolts or just good and tight? I can only find the specs for the mount bracket to the block.
Thanks!

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'06 CRD Limited: Samcos, Fumoto valve, Etecno1 glow plugs, K&N AF, ORM, Intake Elbow Kit, GDE ECO Tune, Carter Cummins intank Fuel Pump
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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:12 pm 
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1stepp wrote:
Looks like I get to take on this job next weekend... Any torque specs on the mount bolts or just good and tight? I can only find the specs for the mount bracket to the block.
Thanks!


I just good and tight them, don't remember if the fsm has the torque specs...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 10:40 am 
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I just replaced the engine mounts and to say "Driver side bottom nut is PITA to get to" would be an understatement. Make sure you use 6-grove (as opposed to 12-groove) 18mm HEX short socket for the driver side bottom nut. I only had 12-grove HEX socket at hand. I wasn't able to tighten the lower nut to my liking with this socket without risking rounded nut edges. Also the passenger side bottom nut is not a straight shot so try to use flex joint for that as well. I had Weeks kit installed so I had to remove the weeks elbow to get to the top nut on the driver side.

Other than those minor points, the write up was on the money even without the pictures.

Thanks to OP.

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 2:37 am 
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thermorex wrote:
Hey Guys,

I had some funny noises right from the steering wheel area, and I started to research what is going on. It sounded like a relay that was going on/off, but very irregular. With acceleration, the noise dissapeared. Since I had the engine mounts already, I said to myself why wouldn't I spend my Sunday under the jeep? :BANANA: So, this is a mini-walkthrough on how I did the replacement.

1. Prerequisites
Required tools: All we need is Metric sockets some breaker bar and extensions
- metric 15 for the shield(s) – engine and/or transmission
- metric 18 (deep and regular) for the engine mount nuts
- at least 2 ft of 1/2 in extension
- 1/2 flex joint
- ratchets and breaking bars.
- some pb blaster can help loosen up the nuts.
Image

2. Removal & Installation
Lift the jeep on jack stands as high as possible. I did not have access to a shop so I had to do this on the floor of my garage, and honestly, as much space you have under the jeep, as easier is to work.
Proceed with removing the Engine shield and/or transmission shield. Transmission shield (if equipped) must be removed to allow more space for the tools and removal of the driver side mount. So unbolt the 4 bolts from engine skid, remove it then loosen up the transmission skid plate bolts from the transmission crossbar. Do not remove them, only loosen them up since the tranny skid will slide to the rear and come out.
Once the skids are out, proceed to one of the mounts, I started with the Driver side since I’ve heard from people it is the hardest to take out. To be honest, it is not much harder than the passenger side (the one with the heat shield), the difficulty in removing it is due to lack of access. You can squeeze the metric 18 regular socket (the deep is too big) with a flex joint and extension through in between the axle and jeep chassis:
Image
I loosened up both sides while under the car, but only remove one (this case driver side) nut, since we need the passenger side mount secured to the engine and chassis till we change the driver side, to make sure the engine will not move left or right while mounts are removed.
Once the lower nut is removed, proceed to the upper driver mount nut. Here we need a deep socket metric 18, since a regular one won’t reach the nut due to the length of the bolt the mount has. BTW, can’t find a reason why they made those bolts so long, it doesn’t make any sense… Mount the deep socked on a flex joint and use at least a 2 ft extension and make your way to the driver mount upper bolt:
Image
Image
Once the top nut gets loosen up and moves to the top of the mount bolt, you will have to pull out the deep socket and replace it with the regular metric 18 socket, since (at least in my case) the deep socket is too tall and touches the FCV body.
Once both nuts are out, get a small piece of wood (I had a leftover from a 2x4), put that under the engine’s oil pan, then raise the driver side of the vehicle little by little, till the upper bolt of the mount has about 1/4 inch left through the engine mount bracket. As a note, this pic is from raising the passenger side of the engine.
Image
Get under the car, grip the mount and raise it up through the engine mount bracket, then slide the bottom of the mount out and pull down the mount to permanently remove it from the car. Replace it with a new one by inserting the top bolt of the mount through the engine mount bracket, then lower it down on the chassis bracket. Once the new mount is in place, lower the engine back to have it sat on the new mount and place both top and bottom nuts while under the car since it easier. Tighten them and then move to the next, passenger side.
Passenger side is a little easier since the lower nut can be removed without any flex joint. Once the lower nut is out, proceed to the top one. Removing the air filter cover would make everything easier. No need to remove the whole box, just take out the cover and the air filter.

Image

Image

Image

I’d like to highlight the importance of properly seating the socket on the nut, especially when using a flex joint it may not be so easy right away, maybe the nut is dirty, or maybe just a bad day, take your time and properly seat the socket on the nut, so it will untie nice and easy, without rounding the edges. Especially with this cramped space in this car’s under the hood, rounding the edges of the nut can result in few more days of work.
Once the passenger side mount is out, replace it with the new one using a similar approach like for the driver one. I’d like to note something, regarding the passenger mount: You can go away ordering 2 driver side mounts, both passenger and driver mounts are identical, the passenger has a heat shield due to exhaust being nearby. Now, in my opinion it is not worth to get 2 driver side mounts to save few bucks, I also ordered 2 driver mounts and had to remove the heat shield from the existing, old passenger side to one of the new driver mounts. Honestly, it is not worth the hassle. The head shield is somehow “stamped” on the engine mount upper bolt, and it won’t come out easy. It is doable, but not worth the wasted time, at least if I had to do it again, I would just get the passenger side as new.
Image
This picture has the heat shield on the new mount, and I ended up using a 1/2 washer to replace the “factory” one that somehow was cracked (and not by me for sure). You can see the factory washer on the top of the upper bolt. The new 1/2 washer would definitely resist better than original.
Overall, this is easy a couple hours job, if you know what to do from the beginning. It took me I think about 4, because every time I end up under the jeep, I start looking at this and that and I zone out for few minutes thinking what else needs attention.
If you have any suggestions to the process, please let me know, so I can edit this post and update it accordingly.

Thermorex, thanks for the write up. Any chance you can re-upload the pics as they are broken.

Thanks in advance

Chris

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 3:56 pm 
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Chris, see below:

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E ... ile%2cdocx

The original post has been updated with this link at the very top.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 4:12 pm 
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Awesome. Thank you so much.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine mounts - replacement walkthrough
PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 3:11 pm 
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Thermorex, what did u talk the upper and lower nuts. I can seem to find the spec I'm the FSM. Cheers

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