DIY ECU Flash

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:04 pm

the battery charger is a precaution, if something goes wrong and you have to rewrite the original file it takes several minutes and the risk of staying without tension is real, I do it on any car where I work via OBD , if the writing process is interrupted , the ecu become corrupted , after is corrupted is not allways possible to rewrite and the ecu is :dead:

, only solution is try to rewrite via BDM pad inside of the ECU

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:25 pm

Gypsy62 wrote:

Thanks, G-nado; "run as admin" got me going.
Before plugging into the beast I'm gonna re-review this entire (and all other) flash-threads, take copious notes, and move forward with as solid a grasp as possible of this procedure and available flashes. I can't afford to make a stupid mistake that compromises my ECU and cripples my jeep...
How long does it typically take to install a flash? I'm guessing it depends how many parameters you're adjusting (computer speed is also in play). A ballpark average-time would be helpful.
Regarding folks advice to hook a charger to the battery while performing flashes, I suppose why not. I'm quite curious if anybody has actually lost power during a flash procedure due to a depleted battery.
Given that I recently established that you can drive a CRD for 1.5 hours* on solely a fully-charged battery (serp removed) before stalling, it's difficult to imagine the current-drain from only the (ignition-on, no?) ECU would pose much danger. Further, I presume that people go for a test-drive after each flash, thereby recharging the battery between experimental flashes.
Again: How long does it typically take to install a flash?
Thanks!
*day-driving w/ no beams/runners, but with a Kennedy electric fuel pump.

It's the laptops battery, not the vehicle! Put the laptop on it's charger while doing the flash :roll:

But the vehicle should have a good fully charged battery as well. :wink:

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2018 6:48 pm

Oh. That makes sense. Thanks.
This goofy old toshiba mini-laptop will only run for two minutes on its (99% toasted) battery anyway, so I HAVE to have its 110vac charger hooked-up to flash!
It seems stupid to drop $50 on a new battery for such a slow/odd laptop; I need to check its charger's vdc output rating to see if I can power it off the jeep's 12vdc. Its 10" screen is kinda' handy. Nicely compact for keeping in the rig for flash-on-the-fly. Bought for a whopping $25, if it gets destroyed or ripped-off I will not shed even one tear.

And thanks for "5-minutes per flash" stat!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:26 pm

The most important thing is you don't want the laptop crapping out during a ECM flash for any reason.
As others have alluded to; if the ECM were to get corrupted for any reason during the flash due to the laptop losing power, the costs to replace or reprogram the ECM can get astronomical. :roll:

Always better safe than sorry! :wink:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:15 am

Gypsy62 wrote:

Oh. That makes sense. Thanks.
This goofy old Toshiba mini-laptop will only run for two minutes on its (99% toasted) battery anyway, so I HAVE to have its 110vac charger hooked-up to flash!
It seems stupid to drop $50 on a new battery for such a slow/odd laptop; I need to check its charger's vdc output rating to see if I can power it off the jeep's 12vdc. Its 10" screen is kinda' handy. Nicely compact for keeping in the rig for flash-on-the-fly. Bought for a whopping $25, if it gets destroyed or ripped-off I will not shed even one tear.

And thanks for "5-minutes per flash" stat!

YVW
My old gateway has the same battery issue. I've gotten by so far by using a cheap 175w inverter that plugs into the lighter socket, and plug the laptop's AC supply into that.
When doing a cold flash, I put a charger on the battery, but for times that I flash when doing drive comparisons, the fresh alternator charge in the GRP 65 battery is plenty. It rarely gets much below 12.5V if that.

manyjeepjake · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2018 6:11 pm

Hey guys newb here. Trying to get a egr delete tune but can't figure out what ecu I have. My jeep is a 2006 liberty (US) 2.8 crd. here is what I got from reading the ecu. Ž 1037512035P53363K0 ·’¥
Thanks for any help

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:31 pm

manyjeepjake wrote:

Hey guys newb here. Trying to get a egr delete tune but can't figure out what ecu I have. My jeep is a 2006 liberty (US) 2.8 crd. here is what I got from reading the ecu. Ž 1037512035P53363K0 ·’¥
Thanks for any help

Does not look right!
Reading the file with a text reader like WordPad after you have read and saved it, it should look something like this: 1037380811P_399430
In this case it is an "811" file. :wink:

manyjeepjake · **Posted:** Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:46 pm

I didn't think it looked right either...what program do you suggest I read the file with? Thanks

edit: I tried reading with WordPad and got the same numbers. What am I missing?

edit2: Ok through my newbery I realized my mistake. Looks like mpps ID'd my ECU for me as an 808. Thanks for the input. :SOMBRERO:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:56 am

a us market 2006 should be an "808" tune.

manyjeepjake · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:38 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

a us market 2006 should be an "808" tune.

That's what I discovered after reading through a bunch of the posts and first page of this thread. My Jeep now has the 808 egr/fcv delete and mild tune. So far no issues. :BANANA:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:44 am

manyjeepjake wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

a us market 2006 should be an "808" tune.

That's what I discovered after reading through a bunch of the posts and first page of this thread. My Jeep now has the 808 egr/fcv delete and mild tune. So far no issues. :BANANA:

Good. You will love it and your Jeep will be much better off without all that EGR Crap! :rockon:

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:02 pm

you have take a big risk ,2054 is not an 0808 , but fortunally for you is compatibile , guy pay attention when do this suggestion ;-)

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:07 pm

Dez wrote:

For those of you, that want the Mild 808 Yeti Tune, Mild Nicks 808 Tune or Stock 808 Tune with P0403,P1140 Deleted, Follow the link here.

If you decide to download Yetis or Nicks tune, Please send them a PM Thanking them for their work. Ive only went through and removed DTC's based off the How-To written on the forum, using the public tunes already posted

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1K0odg ... bYbnZt1ZqW

Updated the first page.
Let me know if there is any other link that I should add.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2018 1:14 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

a us market 2006 should be an "808" tune.

FWIW, my '06 US market CRD is an 035.

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:06 pm

kidjedi wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

a us market 2006 should be an "808" tune.

FWIW, my '06 US market CRD is an 035.

there is 28 firmware version that I have received from USA , Canada ,EU and Australia , changein FW is by year , transmission and emission ,plus some Chrysler recall from turbo , glowplug and other .

mrj248 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:58 am **Posts:** 6

There are something wrong in apardo001's 806 EGR/FCV delete file.

I did file comparison and result is:
C:\806>fc 806-oem-stock.bin apardo001-806-EGR_FCV_Delete-Stock_Tune.Bin
Comparing files 806-oem-stock.bin and APARDO001-806-EGR_FCV_DELETE-STOCK_TUNE.BIN
FC: no differences encountered

When I looked maps from addresses E1E50 and E2960 - those are like stock - no EGR/FCV ellimination.

Anyway I took my 806 version from EURO KJ - https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3187nbjhoeiz ... k.bin?dl=0

and modified it according to HrastProgrammer's 513 EGR/FCV delete file - https://www.dropbox.com/s/c84l906rt9m2j ... e.bin?dl=0

Can someone just look my work and verify that I did it properly.

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:21 am

It's ok , but you need to delete the p1140 , in your file you have deleted only the p0403 , if you want unplug the FCV connector and the maf delte this DTC
0101
0100
0102
and
1140

and you are ok

ps nice job ;-)

mrj248 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:58 am **Posts:** 6

Yeti, thank you, I'll make some corrections. After reading HrastProgrammer's error code guides I start to understand little more what is what.

apardo001 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 21, 2018 10:34 am

apardo001 wrote:

Here's my EGR/FCV delete tune:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mhn1aj032no2lzs/1037380806-stock-EGR_FCV_delete.Bin?dl=0

Original post with the correct file. Thanks mrj248 for noticing, seems you're the first 806 to try it :wink:

Squeeto will need to update the first post with the correct link or file.

mrj248 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:58 am **Posts:** 6

apardo001 wrote:

Here's my EGR/FCV delete tune:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mhn1aj032no2lzs/1037380806-stock-EGR_FCV_delete.Bin?dl=0

Original post with the correct file. Thanks mrj248 for noticing, seems you're the first 806 to try it :wink:

Squeeto will need to update the first post with the correct link or file.

Yes, this version is correct, seems that first page have some typo.
I looked your modified file and have one question - you changed values between FDE78..FDEFF. Can you please enlighten this?

DIY ECU Flash

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