Disclaimer: I don't know if drilling a hole in the crank case is good idea or not so don't blame me! Having said that, turbo oil drain is almost at the same height as the hole I drilled so I think it should be OK.

I followed directions from http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/ and installed provent. I made couple of changes.
1. I fabricated two piece mounting bracket from the scrap metal I had on hand. I decided to use ECU bolts and one bolt from the original guide.
2. I decided to drill one of the free boss from old EGR cooler and tap it to 1/8" NPT. You can use 11/32" (better) or R size (best) drill bit to drill the hole for 1/8" NPT tap. I routed the oil drain from provent back into crank case using 1/8" NPT hole. Pictures does not show but I used 45 degree adapter (1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb) on the crank case.

By the way, the EGR cooler boss shown almost touches the end of the piston! I did not want to drill through/close to the piston so I did some measurements before I drilled the boss. I measured 150 mm from top of the block to the boss. FSM shows that stock length is 100 mm. FSM does not show the height of the piston so I figured the piston can't be longer than 50 mm. I was right on the money! You can acutely "feel" the edge of the piston if you wiggle ear swab in the drilled hole.

Slideshow at: http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jigar_patel2/slideshow/Provent
Note: Picture titles have instructions.

If you don't have a free boss on the intake side of the engine then there are couple of free bosses on the exhaust side also. If you use exhaust side boss then you may have to find a longer route for the oil drain pipe and/or relocate provent next to the coolant reservoir. It will be too hot near exhaust side so I decided to use the intake side.

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

I learned that if you connect the oil return line in sump above the oil level then you need a "return valve or check valve". Otherwise crankcase vacuum will ingest atmospheric air and blow the rear oil seal. I do not have check valve installed yet. For now I have plugged the crankcase hole and hooked a plastic bottle (with some holes at the top) on the oil return line. I will post picture on my temporary solution later in the original slideshow.

FYI: This is how the proven check valve looks: http://www.inlinefilters.co.uk/Filters-Air/Breathers/Engine/FMH-2400843621

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'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

I can't see your pics :

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.