CRD timing belt kit

kk3dln · **Joined:** Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:40 pm **Posts:** 23

I have a 2005 CRD that just turned 100,000. Does anyone have a suggestion what is the best kit to get for it. I see them priced any where from $140. to $500. They all seems to use Gates belts.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 15, 2016 11:05 am

ID Parts is one very good source and they support our little Jeep CRD family with good quality parts at reasonable prices... :wink:

http://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit-liberty-crd-p-2721.html

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 19, 2018 11:17 pm

Developed a cricket cirp in the front end. Seems to be RPM related weather I'm moving or sitting still. Rev up the RPM's and chirping goes faster.
Thinking a idler bearing might be going out. Have approx 120,000 miles with no timing belt replacement yet. Is there any other things that may cause
this type of chirp, sounds just like a cricket.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Huhhhhh wrote:

Developed a cricket cirp in the front end. Seems to be RPM related weather I'm moving or sitting still. Rev up the RPM's and chirping goes faster.
Thinking a idler bearing might be going out. Have approx 120,000 miles with no timing belt replacement yet. Is there any other things that may cause
this type of chirp, sounds just like a cricket.

Most likely the chirp is the alternator decoupler pulley. They get corroded inside and have to be replaced. I.D. Parts most likely has them.

If it indeed is the ADP, you should not ignore it or. Failing to change out and ADP will cause the serpentine belt tensioner to fail.

Grotsoldaat · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:08 am

Huhhhhh wrote:

Developed a cricket cirp in the front end. Seems to be RPM related weather I'm moving or sitting still. Rev up the RPM's and chirping goes faster.
Thinking a idler bearing might be going out. Have approx 120,000 miles with no timing belt replacement yet. Is there any other things that may cause
this type of chirp, sounds just like a cricket.

Also fraying cam belt can cause it, when some string is protruding out of it. That may become costly.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:09 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

Developed a cricket cirp in the front end. Seems to be RPM related weather I'm moving or sitting still. Rev up the RPM's and chirping goes faster.
Thinking a idler bearing might be going out. Have approx 120,000 miles with no timing belt replacement yet. Is there any other things that may cause
this type of chirp, sounds just like a cricket.

Do you know if the timing belt has ever been replaced?
If not and if it is the original, it is way past due for replacement. 100k or 10 years whichever comes first are what many recommend. :roll:

You do not want it to slip a few teeth or break; if it does, it will get very costly very quickly as this is an interference engine and parts will break it this happens. :grim:

As to the cirp, like Jeff suggested, it is most likely the alternator belt pulley. They are know for going bad.

Simple way to test, remove the serpentine belt, start the engine and see if the cirp is gone.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:26 pm

No timing belt replacement yet. Looking into if it's something I want to do myself or let the stealership destroy my wallet.
Working two jobs doesn't leave a lot of time to work on things.

Could it be an idler pulley? If I remove the belt and the noise goes away how do I know which pulley is the culprit?

Grotsoldaat · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:44 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

No timing belt replacement yet. Looking into if it's something I want to do myself or let the stealership destroy my wallet.
Working two jobs doesn't leave a lot of time to work on things.

Could it be an idler pulley? If I remove the belt and the noise goes away how do I know which pulley is the culprit?

Culprit will not rotate totally freely and there might be loose in its bearings. If it is alternator pulley, you can feel it by hand. When I replaced mine because of the noise it made, its bearings were so loose it was moving couple of millimeters sideways.

But have the belt and water pump done ASAP, 120k is too much and if it snaps, you can expect :dead:

for the engine. And faulty water pump may get noisy as well.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:49 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

No timing belt replacement yet. Looking into if it's something I want to do myself or let the stealership destroy my wallet.
Working two jobs doesn't leave a lot of time to work on things.

Could it be an idler pulley? If I remove the belt and the noise goes away how do I know which pulley is the culprit?

Spin them by hand one at a time with serp belt off and listen for any noise. Also rotate and feel each one individually for any roughness in bearing.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:53 pm

Just got a quote from the stealership for $2,500.00 to do the timing belt kit with water pump.
Think I'll find time to do the ID Parts kit. Anything else I should do while I'm in that deep?

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:14 pm

On the ID parts timing belt kit is it necessary to buy the thermostat housing?
Can you just buy a thermostat and not the housing?

Should I replace the Serpentine Belt Tensioner while I'm in there?
Is the Upgraded revised design with stronger pulley good to have?

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Huhhhhh wrote:

On the ID parts timing belt kit is it necessary to buy the thermostat housing?
Can you just buy a thermostat and not the housing?

Should I replace the Serpentine Belt Tensioner while I'm in there?
Is the Upgraded revised design with stronger pulley good to have?

Check your private messages...

Grotsoldaat · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:28 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

Just got a quote from the stealership for $2,500.00 to do the timing belt kit with water pump.
Think I'll find time to do the ID Parts kit. Anything else I should do while I'm in that deep?

$2,500.00..?!? :dizzy:

Are their parts made from titanium or they charge million x :2cents:

/hour?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 4:00 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

On the ID parts timing belt kit is it necessary to buy the thermostat housing?
Can you just buy a thermostat and not the housing?

Should I replace the Serpentine Belt Tensioner while I'm in there?
Is the Upgraded revised design with stronger pulley good to have?

It is advisable to replace the serpentine belt tensioner while you got it apart, their springs get weak with age.

Other items to consider:
serpentine belt & idler pulleys.
alternator override pulley
check torque of crankshaft pulley bolts and make sure the rubber is good and tight (sound condition) some have been know to come loose.
thermostat is a single sealed unit and must be replaced as such. It has no serviceable parts (does not come apart)
clean, flush out *CAC (intercooler), they have been known to collect oil in the bottom of them if you don't have a ProVent filter installed. ([*]requires removal)

The TG Kit by IDParts should have everything else you need other than the proper tools....

:SOMBRERO:

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Grotsoldaat wrote:

Huhhhhh wrote:

Just got a quote from the stealership for $2,500.00 to do the timing belt kit with water pump.
Think I'll find time to do the ID Parts kit. Anything else I should do while I'm in that deep?

$2,500.00..?!? :dizzy:

Are their parts made from titanium or they charge million x :2cents:

/hour?

Rightly or wrongly, stealerships for YEARS now have made as much or more $$ on service than they have on actually selling vehicles. When you factor in the high overhead they have to deal with, (trained technicians and support staff, bricks and mortar & infrastructure costs, taxes, etc., etc.), it is easy to see how this job can be $2500.00 USD.

If I had my own automobile manufacturing company, my vehicles would be VERY expensive because I would design them to heavy-duty commercial standards and would be very easy to service using commonly available tools and parts. Think about $100,000.00 USD for a Jeep Liberty type of vehicle that I would produce. The upside would be that this would be a vehicle that the customer would be very satisfied with and could keep for their entire life and not have to put up with the BS we currently do with automobiles manufactured today.

My vehicles would have and be designed as follows...

1) ... better designed and built drivelines that give satisfying performance, great fuel economy and rock solid reliability. Think diesel electric using an iron head on iron block engine architecture with GEAR driven camshafts.

2) ... commonly available, but high quality fasteners that can be sourced everywhere.

3) ... easily serviced using hand tools that would cost no more than $1000.00 USD. That would be for every tool necessary to tear down the vehicle to each individual part and/or diagnose the rare problem that would occur. Customers who would be purchasing such a vehicle would be obligated to take a 3-day course in servicing the vehicle.

4) ... upgradeable chassis and driveline as newer technologies for increased efficiencies and reliability become available.

Given the rather high level of competence displayed by members of Jeep Forums in general and in particular LOSTJEEPS; I really think that such a vehicle would be very successful. The U.S. and Canadian militaries in particular would love such a vehicle.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 8:10 pm

Avoid the dealerships.
If you can't do it yourself, find an experienced mechanic that has actually worked on these before. Service people at dealerships mostly don't even know these CRD vehicles exist.

Go with IDParts kit.
It has everything you need, nothing you don't, and uses quality parts, not the cut rate Crown / Omix-Ada crap other kits use.

I do recommend doing it yourself or WITH a mechanically inclined buddy, as you will come away with a much better understanding of how these things work.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 8:35 pm

The ID parts kit looks great. Seems like there are a lot of other things I can be proactive about while I'm in that deep.
Reading through a lot related threads and building a list of things to do. I really don't like how they pigeon hole you into
a thermostat and housing in one unit for an outrageous price. Whoever thought up that needs to be kicked in the nuts. :dizzy:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:46 pm

Huhhhhh wrote:

I really don't like how they pigeon hole you into a thermostat and housing in one unit for an outrageous price. Whoever thought up that needs to be kicked in the nuts. :dizzy:

I agree.

Since you are that deep already, you can easily go one step further and pull the intake/cam housing off.
This gives you access to:
- Cleaning the intake from EGR sludge
- Cleaning the CCV puck and drain tube.
* * *If you can afford it* * *
- Eliminating the EGR with the WEEKS kits.
- Checking your roller cam followers and hydraulic adjusters for wear and damage. Replace any worn ones before they break.
- Removing your TTY head bolts and replacing them with ARP studs one at a time, to maintain your head gasket seal integrity, as preventive to future head gasket failure.

Huhhhhh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 11:44 pm

Is there a section on here that has exploded views of assemblies or any service and repair manuals like chiltons?

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:08 am

Save yourself some money and a big headache, don't drive the vehicle any more until you change that timing belt. Mine failed catastrophically at 96K miles at the most inopportune time; just across the Canadian boarder with a brand new pup 150 miles from home.

CRD timing belt kit

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