06 CRD EGR delete questions

Klach99 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 05, 2019 1:04 am **Posts:** 1

I don't see a reason why I can't remove and plug the EGR Valve. Do the same to the exhaust line from the turbo to EGR valve (blocker plate)

Leave the Intake flap and EGR cooler installed.

With the right tune the flap should help with engine run away by cutting off air flow and help slow down the vehicle during deceleration.
The EGR cooler will actually help retain some more engine heat during winter operation.

Am I missing anything? Some feedback would be appreciated.

Thank you.

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GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 05, 2019 3:02 am

You would produce enormous volumes of exhaust smoke, and run a significant risk of CAUSING a runaway condition.

The engine is not designed to operate with an intake vacuum condition anywhere near to what that would cause. nor is it designed to deal with that volume of oil that would be introduced via the piston rings and the intake valves.

Whether the FCV would deliver any engine braking if it were used that way is very debatable. I tend to the side that it wouldn't.
By closing the valve you are introducing high vacuum to the intake side of your "4cylinder air pump." Rather than making the engine turn harder by compressing incoming air, it makes it easier, as the pump spins with very little air to compress, and what there is, on the compression stroke, comes via the exhaust valves while the piston is at TDC following the exhaust stroke (both valves open during overlap).
After the exhaust valve closes the piston continues down having sucked in a small amount of pure exhaust, it deposits the exhaust carbon throughout the cylinder in greater quantity than that drawn in by the OEM EGR. It then travels back up under vacuum to pressurize the small amount of exhaust gasses, at the end of which stroke, raw fuel is injected into the compressed exhaust. This fuel then attaches to the exhaust carbon particles but has neither heat nor oxygen to actually combust. During the downward stroke, there is no effect other than this carbon-fuel sludge attaching it's self to the cylinder walls for the particles that touch it.
During the exhaust stroke, most of the particles, having not been attached, are pushed out the exhaust valve, where they continue paving everything they touch, and flooding the exhaust with raw unburned fuel.
This condition is bad enough. but Now, you step in the accelerator.
Fresh air, in large quantity is delivered to the engine.
The engine returns to running normally. Including the small amount of still-burning exhaust delivered to the manifold.
Backfire? Ya think? This is no normal backfire. We-re talking exhaust splitting explosion as the next 4 combustion events clear out their throats.

Then you ponder your decision to take such action as compared to simply making a small exhaust block-off plate and pulling out the FCV flap...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Sep 05, 2019 11:22 am

I don't believe the FCV ever fully closes during normal engine operation except at engine shutdown when it goes fully closed to stop air flow into the engine.
During normal operation the FCV only partly closes down to create a low pressure zone in the intake manifold to help facilitate and allow exhaust gases (aka soot) to be pumped into the intake manifold from the EGR valve.

True engine brakes have a valve on the downstream side of the engine in the exhaust pipe that closes off to help with engine braking.
Jake brakes actually close off engine valves to create high resistance to engine turning.
No one uses a valve on the intake side of the engine for braking purposes. As Gordon stated, trying to do so could be dangerous.

The best simple solution is to install a "Block Off" plate on the EGR valve where the exhaust feed tube connects to it.
Long term, it is best to completely remove the entire EGR system with one of the EGR delete kits that are available.
Leaving the EGR cooler in place serves no purpose, it is just more places and hoses that could possibly develop coolant leaks.

See this for EGR "Block Off" plate dimensions:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Does the block off plate go on before the EGR valve or at the EGR cooler exit to intake?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:35 pm

joelukex4 wrote:

Does the block off plate go on before the EGR valve or at the EGR cooler exit to intake?

It goes between the exhaust feed tube that comes around the back of the engine and the EGR valve.

Partsguy19 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 08, 2020 4:25 pm

I'm new to this... I know this in an old thread... So if I just make/install a block off plate, that basically deletes/disables the EGR system? Will I get a light on the dash?

I understand it's best to do a kit and remove everything. Just trying to understand the "basics".

Thanks..

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 08, 2020 11:16 pm

Partsguy19 wrote:

I'm new to this... I know this in an old thread... So if I just make/install a block off plate, that basically deletes/disables the EGR system? Will I get a light on the dash?
I understand it's best to do a kit and remove everything. Just trying to understand the "basics".
Thanks..

If you install just the block off plate, it will totally disable the EGR system.
You should also remove the butterfly plate out of the Flow Control Valve. Very easy to do, only two small torx screws holding it.
Some have reported when installing an EGR block off plate they get an occasional P0101 DTC (check engine light) and some do not.
I ran for a year with just the block off plate installed before the Weeks elbow kit came into being which allows the total removal of the whole EGR crap system.
The EGR delete kit is still available on ebay by a few vendors:> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-FCV-Delete ... Sw-89ZSw6t

06 CRD EGR delete questions

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