LEXAN KJ HOOD, Early model, Interest??

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:27 am

Any interest in a lexan hood for the Liberty?

BR TECH currently makes them for a couple other models including a narrowed KJ version for rock buggies. They might tackle full size hoods if we get enough interest.

$325 clear, $425 colored.

I have an email in to get more info such as weight, colors available, (and if you can still see through them) ability to use hinges and latches, etc.

Curent info from them says they need to sell 50 to make it worth while but I am trying to get that number lowered since they don't have any to show yet.

DryBones · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:04 pm

smoked would look cool or maybe an opaque carbon fiber look.

Sport · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:13 pm

I wonder what the weight comparison is?

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:26 pm

Sport wrote:

I wonder what the weight comparison is?

Thanks for asking I was wondering the same,

also how they would latch ( with stock hood latch or have to use pins? )
also another question think stock hinges would work ?

inquiring minds want to know :wink:

I want a smoked or black...what else :lol:

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:29 pm

Those are the questions I am awaiting answers on. :wink:

corwyyn · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:30 pm

Well, I'm guessing this is probably the rock-buggy version:

Not sure if they come with the race-car style tie-downs or if the shop that built the buggy did that...

jerseykj · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:15 pm

they'd have to come up with two styles for those of us with the 05-6 rennys.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:24 pm

Man I would have to totally redo my paints scheme :evil:

! And cut some more holes for my vents :evil:

!

But yeah I would buy one,you can count me in for one,a clear one so I can paint it myself,the fun I could have,though a pain to paint it in reverse(the underside to keep the paint looking good).

501 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:52 pm

Maybe they could make them with vents or a hood scoop.

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:55 pm

I have to question why you might want one of these? Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of Lexan. I have used it for all kinds of stuff and it is super easy to work with. You can drill it, sand it, grind it like steel, form it and bend it. I just don't see the advantage on our rigs. A fiberglass hood would be much easier to make and would weigh the same or less. Plus you could integrate a scoop or vents into it. Not to mention that you could get the flat look if you wanted to.

Oh, and tjkj, I can't recommend painting the underside. Lexan is a polycarbonate and is very soft and easy to scratch, unlike an acrylic.

Thanks,
Rescu2000

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:06 pm

Quote:

Oh, and tjkj, I can't recommend painting the underside. Lexan is a polycarbonate and is very soft and easy to scratch, unlike an acrylic.

I've been playing with nitro RC vehicles for 20 years,they use lexan bodies.Painting the underside is the best way to keep the bodies looking good even after a nasty roll,tumble,or smashing into a wall.So it is better to paint a lexan part from the underneath then the outside,less prone to messing up the paint.

Guest · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:25 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Quote:

Oh, and tjkj, I can't recommend painting the underside. Lexan is a polycarbonate and is very soft and easy to scratch, unlike an acrylic.

I've been playing with nitro RC vehicles for 20 years,they use lexan bodies.Painting the underside is the best way to keep the bodies looking good even after a nasty roll,tumble,or smashing into a wall.So it is better to paint a lexan part from the underneath then the outside,less prone to messing up the paint.

I KNEW you had to be an RC car guy to come up with the paint-the-inside solution...I was reading through to see if anybody else would come up with it.

But my issue was exactly the scratching problem. my paint has a few scars, but still shines up nicely. After 2 or 3 runs, none of my RC car bodies have the ability to shine. Granted, the KJ doesn't spend much time cartwheeling across construction sites, and some of the Japanese vehicles I've seen with polycarbonate hoods, they don't appear to have held up very well (but I also don't know how old they are)

Who makes the lexan itself, and the thickness would be my two main concerns if I were interested (and I'm honestly not)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:33 pm

Quote:

But my issue was exactly the scratching problem. my paint has a few scars, but still shines up nicely. After 2 or 3 runs, none of my RC car bodies have the ability to shine. Granted, the KJ doesn't spend much time cartwheeling across construction sites, and some of the Japanese vehicles I've seen with polycarbonate hoods, they don't appear to have held up very well (but I also don't know how old they are)

Using the correct paint is key,you need to use special paint on lexan.All my RC bodies that I have painted have all looked shiny,not the same shine as a profesional tri-coat paint job but just as shiny as any real good single stage paints of the pre-90's era paint jobs.What sucks is that paint isn't cheap.

Guest · **Posted:** Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:38 pm

I know you need to use a special paint (been doing it since the early/mid 90s myself), the paint isn't the problem...the lexan itself getting the snot beaten out of it IS the problem.

Like I said, 2-3 runs, the lexan gets REALLY beat up.

This won't be as much of an issue on a KJ that mostly sees street use, but from what I know of people using lexan windows in drag cars (which, TBH, isn't much) is that it's hard to keep from scratching them when cleaning, and keeping them from fogging

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:00 am

You asked who makes Lexan. I think GE has a copyright on that name. The unnofficial name is Polycarbonate 9030 or something similar. I have actually worked with thicknesses up to 1/2". I'm betting they make thicker. 1/2" is some TOUGH stuff. I used to use the 1/8" stuff to fab up guards and stuff at work. I used a sheet metal bender to put right angles in it. Works great. You can actually put a bend in it without heating. It works better with heat though.

The hood looks like 1/8" sheet or so from that picture. It must have a lot of bracing to be rigid, although the curves will help a lot.

As far as staying shiny, I'm just basing that on the guards I've seen. After wiping with cotton cloths for a while, they get dingy looking. And it seems like anything that touches them leaves a scratch.

I may make some fender flares out of fiberglass, if I end up needing them to stick out further. Maybe I should try a hood...

Rescu2000

Guest · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:09 am

My question was to whether it was real Lexan or a generic polycarbonate.

rescu2000 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:20 am

Oh, Sorry. It better be real Lexan, since the website is using the Lexan name and they have the copyright after it.

Rescu2000

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:19 am

Well, I Was hoping for more of an INTEREST thread and not full blown discussion on the merits of platics. In order to get these made, we need some serious commitment ($$) or we can forget it.

I am expecting the company to produce a couple to show off before people spend the cash but at this rate, I can't even tell them that we have a half dozen that would buy it if it met their expectations.

I'll get this thread cleaned up or start a new one so we can find out Who would pay the price.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:53 pm

How about a nice clear coat on the top to prevent the minor scratches, with the paint underneath?

LEXAN KJ HOOD, Early model, Interest??

Who is online