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 Post subject: Signs of a failing EGR valve
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:21 pm 
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My CRD just turned 3100 miles.

I 0W-40 is on the shelf.

What the symptoms of a failing EGR valve.

I still am looking for DC to come up with a fix for the 50-60 mph tranny shudder.

Thanks

Tom


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:17 pm 
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Longer than normal turbo lag 0-2000 RPM. Mine was up to about 2-3 seconds before it got to 2000 RPMs. Once the CEL comes on, its all down hill from there. Mine almost stalled out at times.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:34 pm 
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Yea, what n3qik said is what sent me the signals.

And dc corp does know theres a problem, they are stockpiling new egrs here in Chicago for the CRDs. They even admitted to my tech and service manager that many CRD owners are having the same problems. On mine the CEL was on from almost day one. I Just thought it should have some more power than what it had. After I disconnected the EGR it was Amazing how much power my CRD had.


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 Post subject: FAulty ERG
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:32 am 
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My CRD had 3400 miles on her when the Majic Light came on. Local dealer took care of TSB and told me they had to order a new ERG. Light has ben on for 2300 miles (2weeks).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 2:33 am 
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Danno wrote:
After I disconnected the EGR it was Amazing how much power my CRD had.
Why not just disconnect the EGRs and be done with the CEL light coming on and running problems ??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:13 am 
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Katmandu wrote:
Danno wrote:
After I disconnected the EGR it was Amazing how much power my CRD had.
Why not just disconnect the EGRs and be done with the CEL light coming on and running problems ??


Id love to.. Personally Im afraid the dealer would complain if I took it in for service and it was disconnected. Just dont want to give them anything to complain about and possibly put warrenty restrictions on. I brought that up to my tech and he even said, "do what ya gotta do, I just dont want to know"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 2:03 pm 
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I will second that, I had to block off the EGR pipe so I could at least drive it. The service manager rerminded me that doing that could void my warranty.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 5:04 pm 
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Well after getting the egr installed it does run a whole hell of a lot better, just filled up with a tank of b20 so ill let you all know the gas mileage. Still debating on putting the KN back on. lol


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:29 pm 
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Danno wrote:
Yea, what n3qik said is what sent me the signals.

And dc corp does know theres a problem, they are stockpiling new egrs here in Chicago for the CRDs. They even admitted to my tech and service manager that many CRD owners are having the same problems. On mine the CEL was on from almost day one. I Just thought it should have some more power than what it had. After I disconnected the EGR it was Amazing how much power my CRD had.


DC had a similiar problem in the early 90's with MAP sensors. They got a bad batch from a subcontractor. Same thing may have happened with EGR. So far at 5k no problems here with EGR codes. I did have the CEL come on with transmision codes but they reset them and and it has been fine since then.

If this is a Diesel thing as some VW TDI owners have suggested.
1. So where is this EGR ?
2. Easy to change ?
3. What do they cost?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:38 pm 
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Looking from the front of the jeep its on the right side of the engine block, where the hose from the intercooler connects to the Mixing Valve, underneath the Mixing valve and back a bit is the EGR. n3qik had a pic a while ago.

When My tech saw where it was, I was told he just sat there, stared at it for while and cussed alot.. So I dont think it was easy. But, it only took him like 4 hours. Not bad for his first one.

I have no idea of the cost.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:55 pm 
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Yep, what Danno said, just put your hand under that piece and you'll feel another line entering the intake behing the EGR valve there.

What we need to figure out is why they are "failing". Its unlikely the unit is just outright failing since it is a mechanical piece. Something inside of it is not happy with the oil and recirculated exhaust. Might be the sensor there.

On TDI's, EGR problems are just from blockage. The exhuast gases, soot, from the engine mix with the oily fumes coming from the CCV and make a soot sludge that slowly (half inch over 40k on average) lines the walls of the intake after the EGR. It is (comparatively) easy to clean and fix, just REALLY dirty (best to take the removed pieces it to a coin operated car wash and blast the crap out of them)

The EGR system isn't healthy for our engines, but it helps a load with emissions. Disconnecting the system altogether is the best option, but then your vehicle is a) out of warranty and b) illeagal emissions wise, both of which can be avoided by reconnecting the system on a dealer trip/emissions test.

I'd really like to find out what actually fails on these valves.

cevans


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 9:27 pm 
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I got to see the old EGR valve from my Jeep. It was carbon build up the caused the valve to stick open.For only 4800 miles it was 1/16' thick in some spots.The oil from the CCV will not make it to the EGR valve. IF anything it will mess up the EGR mixing valve. This is the part attched to the intact and humms/buzzes after shut down.

Fixes:

EGR carbon might be less with ULS diesel and/or Bio-diesel, this can be proven as there are little problems with CRDs overseas as they have better fuel.

CVV oil is installing a CCV filter, this does two thing no EGR problems and no clogged intercoolers like VW's

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 9:44 pm 
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So, the EGR valve is not located at the same spot that the "EGR mixer" is? And the valve, at the exhaust side, not the mixer on the intake side, is failing? Was the carbon buildup dry or oily? If it was oily then there is defintely CCV vapors getting there.

How long have the replacement parts lasted? Longer?

cevans


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 Post subject: Its My Turn
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 7:13 pm 
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Well it has finally happened to me. 3700 miles, 16.5mpg and the engine light came on. Checked the codes and thanks to LOST's help, figured it was the EGR.
The real problem came when I took it to the dealer. He did understand that I knew what I was talking about, it's just a shame there weren't any qualified techs that did! Sooo.."Come back during the week we'll have are top mechanic here and he will check it out".....So reluctanly I did. This time he says he can't write down my opinion of the problem the tech has to diagonse it. Now I feel like I'm in the emergency room and this is not Good! Well seven hours later he calls me and tells me its the EGR valve, ( what a surprise) and that the part is on back order, should take 7 to 10 days!
UUGGGGGGGHHHH! I hate Stealerships! :evil:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:13 pm 
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cevans wrote:
So, the EGR valve is not located at the same spot that the "EGR mixer" is? And the valve, at the exhaust side, not the mixer on the intake side, is failing? Was the carbon buildup dry or oily? If it was oily then there is defintely CCV vapors getting there.
cevans


The carbon on the EGR valve was dry. It's placement in the system should keep it somewhat that way. Now the EGR mixing valve, that's a whole another story. I think this is where the CRD and the VW TDI will have common problems. The oil from the CCV will mix with the exhaust gas and form a build up at the mixing valve/intack area. Time will tell. I belive ULS diesel/B20 and a CCV filter will make the CDR last a whole lot longer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:53 pm 
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Mine says type 43 is that a cel, what is a cel?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 9:33 pm 
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BCool wrote:
Mine says type 43 is that a cel, what is a cel?


That isn't a code its printed on the dash and when the light hits just right looks like it is lighted.

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 Post subject: CCV Filter
PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 12:26 pm 
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good idea putting an oil trap in the CCV line, finding the room to do it is the trick.

I've used the same idea for a couple years on my old '87 Subaru, and my '04 Dakota before I traded it in on a CRD.

Unit I used was actually pre-made, sold by a company in Canada. Went in the PCV line between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. Basically, it has a wire mesh filter cartridge with dessicant beads inside, the oil mist condenses out and drops to the bottom of the jar, the blow by gases go on to the intake manifold. Idea was to keep the oil from being burned in the engine and building up carbon. Works pretty good, was amazed at the amount of oil that thing would trap over a couple of weeks.

The company in Canada has a website and makes units for both gas and diesel engines. I won't mention their name here, don't want to be accused of generating spam, and I'm not associated with them. If interested, send me a private e-mail and I'll tell you their website address, let you check it out for yourself and decide if it's worthwhile.

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 Post subject: EGR Valve
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:04 pm 
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With all this talk about the EGR valve, this is my experience. I purchased my CRD in April. On May 24th, had all the symptoms you all talk about. The dealer said it was the EGR valve. Took a week to get a new one, and after 30 miles was doing it again. Ordered a second valve, same thing. Shipped the Liberty on a truck to Lampassas, Texas. The diesel mechanic there tried everything, couldn't get it to work. He finally opened a sealed box with microchips. Found dirt and a house fly.(no kidding) Said the box was sealed at the factory. The contamination told the computer how to run, and that was the problem. Cleaned out the box, and its run great ever since, including two trips to the Rockies to 4 wheel. The dealer had it for a full month, but paid that month's car payment for me and provided another Liberty for a loaner.


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 Post subject: Sealed box?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:19 pm 
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What box was this? The engine mgmt computer?

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