That was my next question...because it seems that longer CVs would maybe fix this problem?

Jeepjeepster, thanks for answering my questions. I love the frankenlift and the height of it but I just want to make sure that I won't have any problems later on down the road.

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02' Frankenlifted White Sport on 31" TrXus M/Ts

89' 2 Dr. Khaki XJ- Waggy 44's, 4.88s, 35's, 3-link on 5.5" coils.

The CVs are weak period. Mine broke while turned hard against a rock with a sprinkle of torque thrown in for good measure.

Breakage was totally unrelated to the Frankenlift. I do recommend the CVs if you're going to seriously off road the Liberty. Or at the very least by a stock set for spares. In Crozet I probably saw five or six different vehicles break an axle.

My biggest concern now, is that the problem has moved. Now I've got stronger CVs, so what will break next? Hopefully, not the front diff, but I have located a driverside drop Dana 44 just in case!

Mutt,
better take that 35mm socket along next time just in case.

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Slightly modified Lt. Khaki 3.7 2004 LTD 4X4. Purchased new 8/6/03.
What I don't have....A Mag light mounted to my seat.
Original Old L.O.S.T. #000354

Nick's Pics & Mods click here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/531173
http://www.survivaltopics.com/forums/

Trust me, it's in the console with the key for the wheels. I won't even put it in my travelling tool box!

3 quick questions. how hard is it to swap out a CV, what retains the inner side of the CV in the diff, , and can the CV assy be replaced in the field?

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2006 CRD Sport
MOPAR skid plates, RRO Rock Rails, tow hooks, JKS quck disconnects, 245/75R16LT Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts. OME790s and Rancho RSX17505 struts in the front OME948s and Rancho 17004s.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/theuniverseman
Member ID Rockies 069661

One thing to beaware of when installing these bad boys. They are so stiff when they are new, that I went through 2 seals on the passenger side before there was enough flex in the joint to ride without putting pressure on the seal. In addition, check the intermediate shaft on the right side (it usually remains on the inside of the diff when you remove the shaft. See if it is grooved from the OEM roller bearing (2002 and 2003) models I believe. The newer bearing are the "plastic" type. There is no bearing (no rollers) just a wearing surface like a rod or main bearing.

In the pictures the one with the spline on the end is the drivers side, the one with the stub is the right side and it fits over the imtermediate shaft.

Al

PS they are no longer than the OEM units, as far as I know, they can be field swapped if you have the correct tools, it will be a bear of a job, and the outter nut on your axle hold the shaft in place, plus it feels like the shaft snaps into place once installed.

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One Ruby, One Grand Cherokee, One YJ, One disassembled CJ, one Chevy Mason dump, one hotrod IH Pick-up, couple of antique tractors.
Former owner of a 5.5 inch lifted KJ

Got me thinking again....I hate that....It hurts....ussually my wallet!

Do you have any pics of the stock one without the boots?
How does the attach to the cv? On piece or splined and clipped??
Any specs? spline count etc?
I have never looked at these, just wondering....might be able to figure out what they are using.
Look real similar to a jeep product that is in a non jeep vehicle

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2006 CRD KJ sport 2.5" with 235/85/16's
95 F250 PSD (not stock)
73 Bronco Buggy (REALLY not stock)
90 Miata (sold)
'49 Studebaker PU (sold)