Boost Pressure

BIGPAPACRD · **Joined:** Wed May 10, 2006 11:25 pm **Posts:** 29

I have a question for those of you that have installed the boost gauge. Has anyone notice oil forming in the plastic tubing that is coming out of the intake that runs to the boost gauge? I am going through my 3rd boost gauge ever since I've notice this oil forming in the plastic tube. The problem I am having is that my needle on the gauge would shake as the boost goes up an down and seems like after a few weeks of this, I can literally hear the gauge rattle and outputs a false reading than what I would normally get. My next question would be since there is oil in this tubing, would this cause the needle flutter as the gauge is not receiving a steady flow? Thanks

helmet · **Joined:** Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:15 pm **Posts:** 12

DarbyWalters wrote:

No wastegate on the Turbo...the variable vanes controlled by a solenoid take the place of a "wastegate"...the pitch of the vanes controls the boost pressures essentially.

Actually I think it does have a vacuum controlled wastegate??
How do you get more power out of these diesels, I know theres gota be addons?? :shock:

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:27 pm

helmet wrote:

DarbyWalters wrote:

No wastegate on the Turbo...the variable vanes controlled by a solenoid take the place of a "wastegate"...the pitch of the vanes controls the boost pressures essentially.

Actually I think it does have a vacuum controlled wastegate??
How do you get more power out of these diesels, I know theres gota be addons?? :shock:

The CRD turbo is made by Garrett. Check out their educational turbo school on the following link.
To Wastegate or not to Wastegate that is the question?

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/tech_center.html

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:47 pm

There is no wastegate on the CRD KJ application. The turbo is variable nozzle, controlled by a vacuum solenoid (PWM control). Adding a wastegate to the design would be futile.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Wed Nov 22, 2006 7:30 am

MrMopar64 wrote:

There is no wastegate on the CRD KJ application. The turbo is variable nozzle, controlled by a vacuum solenoid (PWM control). Adding a wastegate to the design would be futile.

Thank you for joining the no wastegate club!
Another wastegater 'bites the dust. We keep replying no wastegate on the VGT, but about every month there is always a wastegate query. I just keep posting the Garrett technical section link :wink:

helmet · **Joined:** Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:15 pm **Posts:** 12

Wow you guys know your wastegates!

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 08, 2007 11:05 pm

Sorry for resurrecting an old post, but is there a way to hook up an electrical boost gauge?

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Sure - same steps as adding a mechanical boost gauge, but mount the extra boost map sensor somewhere in the engine bay, then route the tubing to the boost map sensor instead of routing it to the gauge. Electrical wires from the boost map sensor then route into the pillar gauge. Electrical connections should follow the manufacturer recommendations. Autometer gauges, use separate lighting and gauge power connections. Gauge power must come from switched ignition lead, as the self-calibration uses the off pulse from the run to start positions to activate the self-calibration mode on each startup cycle.

Ripster · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2007 8:18 am

For the fluttering boost needle insert a restrictor in line which will ruduce the needle shake.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

One advantage of the electric boost gauge - smooth needle action, no flutter whatsoever. Just wires running from the map sensor to the gauges inside the cab. Cost is higher due to the added map sensor, but worth it imo.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:29 am

I was hoping it would be possible to tap into the current MAP sensor and make it a bit easier to install than the mechnical boost gauge.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Probably not a good idea to have 2 electrical loads on the same factory map sensor - the pcm and a gauge. Adding a gauge map sensor isn't that bad - it took me all of 5 minutes to drill 2 holes and tighten the AutoMeter map sensor (GM map sensor) to the engine bay and then plug in the tubing and electrical connector.

The rest of the time was spent running the wire through the firewall and installing the gauge pod and other wiring. Locating a switched electrical source and an instrument dimmer controlled power source for the gauge lights took the majority of the time.

Boost Pressure

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