Automatic x-mission maintenance

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Fri Nov 24, 2006 4:24 pm

I need to refill and replace the main sump filter in my transmission. (according to the manual)

Do I need to drop the pan?
where is the filter located?
What is the fluid capacity of the transmission?

What fluid do you guys use? (I know amsoil, ehehe)

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Fri Nov 24, 2006 6:53 pm

Gopherbeats,

I think Eddo is putting together a write up. So you may want to contact him for some more info.

You will need:
Flter (about $17 at the dealer)
RTV (i used permatex ultragrey, just make sure it's recommended for a trans pan)
5 quarts of ATF+4 fluid

As far as tools go you will need:
10mm socket and socket wrench
Extention (3")
Torx Bit (I forget which one. Hopefully you have a set)
Putty knife
Large drain pan
Funnel
jack/jackstands or ramps

Lift the truck. Get under the car and break all the pan bolts free (I think there are 13) but don't loosen them yet. Once all the bolts are broken free you can start remove in the bolts from the front, rear and left side of the pan. Leave all the bolts in the right side of the pan finger tight.

Put your drain pan under the pan. Now using a screw driver or putty knife start working the left rear corner of the pan free from the RTV holding it in place. Once the corner pops free the fluid will start draining. Once it stops you can start loosening the remaining screws and keep pulling the pan down more allowing more fluid to drain. You'll eventually get to the point where only 1 screw is left holding the pan on and you've got as much fluid drained as you can. Remove the last screw, and carefully lower the pan holding it horizontal as it still has fluid it in. Dump the rest of the fluid out of the pan, clean the pan and magnet. Use a putty knife to scrape all the RTV from the pan and trans (this is time consuming, but doing a good job here will prevent you from dropping the pan later to fix a leak).

Using a torx bit remove the two screws holding the filter. When you pull the filter off more fluid will drain, so make sure your drain pan is still in place. The filter is also full of fluid so be prepared for that as well. The neck of the filter should have an o-ring on it. Be sure to get this off the filter and put it on your new filter. If it isn't on the filter it may still be up in the trans. Be sure to find the o-ring and be sure it gets put on the new filter.

Put the new filter in place, and snug up the torx screws. Do not over torque them you will strip the aluminum. I forget the torque values but I used a torque wrench and want to say it was like 180 inch pounds of torque. Maybe someone with a service manual can chime in.

Once you are sure both pan and trans mating surfaces are cleaned of all RTV wipe them both down and get them as free from trans fuild as you possibly can. Put a bead of RTV on the pan (it might be easier to put the bead on the trans I'm not sure). Be sure to create a circle of RTV around each bolt hold. Put the pan into place as soon as you can. You don't want the RTV to set up. Start threading the 13 bolts in and get them all finger tight. Then in a criss cross pattern tighten them all down and then go around and double check them all again. Again I forget the torque values, I want to say like 220 inch pounds. I used a torque wrench to avoid striping out the holes.

Ideally if you can, wait for the RTV to set up before filling the tranny back up. Waiting 1 -2 hours is good insurance. Pull your tranny dipstick and using a funnel pour in 4 quarts of ATF+4 down the dipstick tube. I have done 2 42RLE transmissions and in both cases they took between 4 and 5 quarts of fluid. So 4 is probably a good starting point. You do not want to overfill it.

If it is cold outside, you may not be able to accurately measure the fluid at this point. 4 quarts should get you close enough so you can go out and drive it to get it warmed up. Once it is warmed up (15 miles) you can check the fluid by shifting into each gear for 10 seconds with the truck running and then finally shifting into neutral. Apply the parking brake with the truck in neutral and pull the dip stick. Wipe is clean, reinsert it and pull it again. Try to keep it horizontal so the fluid doesn't run up or down the dipstick. Look at both sides of the dipstick. It can be hard to tell exactly where the fluid ends but if you look close you should see a line that goes all the way across the dipstick. If show fluid trails up the stick partially (only covers part of the dipstick) this is just residue that got pulled up while pulling it out of the tube. Carefully add more fluid to bring it up between the 2 "HOT" holes in the dipstick. Be careful not to overfill it.

Check for leaks the next morning.

Eddo and others. Please feel free to correct anything I might have left out from memory.

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:17 pm

Cool!!!! thanks for the write up!

I never did a tranny oil change yet, so this is very helpful!!
I can get it done in a jiff now.

Thanks again

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Nov 25, 2006 12:25 am

Once you have the four quarts in, shouldn't you remove a coolant line and flush the rest of the trans. I heard its the perfered method for today transmission.

saxdogg · **Joined:** Fri Jun 02, 2006 7:26 pm **Posts:** 199

I used this rtv call "the right stuff"...comes in a can like that cheese you squirt out on crackers. It's easy, and it has no wait time...you can put the fluid right back in once you get the pan back on. Used it on the diff cover too.

jp

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Mon Nov 27, 2006 12:33 am

Thanks for all the input. I did the fluid change for the tranny this weekend, along with the x-fer case oil, and new sparkie plugs..

Do your self a favor and go to the dealer first for the tranny filter, despite what other auto parts stores say ( at least here in CT and for an 04, NAPA, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, and Advanced Auto Parts) , do not have to correct filter for the Tranny.

Actually the dealer had it, and it was chreaper than all of the previously mentioned stores.
I used some Permatex Ultra grey RTV, good for trannsmission pans. I sssembles the pan and let it sit for about 2 hrs before adding the oil as it was pretty cold by the time I got the thing back togethor.

So far everything is happy.

If any one has any questions about tranny oil change, just let me know.

I also changed the spark plugs... It was my fault (I should have checked the part number from the last time I changed them) but when I was about to install the first pug I noticed that again they had sold me the wrong plugs. .... so back to the auto store to exchange things.

Changing spark plugs and Tranny fluid are not hard at all, its all the driving around trying to get the right parts after you take everything apart to realize you were sold the wrong ones thats frusterating.

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:41 am

Very cool! I'm glad it went smoothly.

Gordo · **Posted:** Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:10 pm

gopherbeats wrote:

If any one has any questions about tranny oil change, just let me know.

I have a question - will you come change mine?

No, honestly though, how much did all of the parts/fluid set you back after it was all said and done for the whole project?

Thanks!

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:10 pm

Fluids and Stuff:

5 qrts Synthetic ATF+4: $4.89
One Tube of RTV: $4.99
Tranny Filter: $12.95
O Ring for filter $2.00

Total tranny: $44.39

Spark Plugs total: $15 something including a tube each of antiseize and dielectric grease

T-Case: 2 quarts of atf+4 $9.78

Mind you these are actually part store prices.. I did not buy them from wally world.... So I am sure you can perhaps save a couple duckets on the fluids if you wanted to.

Total total: $69.19

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:06 pm

gopherbeats,
I'll pay you $100 plus parts if u come do mine! :wink:

I'd rather pay you then the dlr!! :lol:

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:38 pm

hmmmmmmmm its very tempting

Give me 3 weeks when I am definatly done with school and I'll be over there in a jiff...

hmmmm gives me an idea to stand out on the corner with a sign that says:

"Will do maintenance for Liberty mod items!"

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:53 pm

Cacher123,

Just do it yourself. It isn't that bad. Just make sure you have everythign you'll need, some time to complete it, and preferable another ride available incase you need to run up and get anything from the parts store.

Automatic x-mission maintenance

Who is online