Liberty Hitch HELP!!!

FigMAn · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:09 am

Does the factory Jeep Trailer Hitch use all 3 holes on each side of the frame? My problem is I was installing a Reese Hitch which only uses the 2 closest to the rear and the middle bolt snapped off flush with the frame. I tried to get it out with and easy out to now avail. Im hoping the factory hitch uses all 3 on each side this way I will have 5 holding it on. Im olny using it to tow a small boat. Thanks for any help....Rich

DnA Diesel · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:16 am

FigMAn wrote:

Does the factory Jeep Trailer Hitch use all 3 holes on each side of the frame? My problem is I was installing a Reese Hitch which only uses the 2 closest to the rear and the middle bolt snapped off flush with the frame. I tried to get it out with and easy out to now avail. Im hoping the factory hitch uses all 3 on each side this way I will have 5 holding it on. Im olny using it to tow a small boat. Thanks for any help....Rich

Yes, 3 per side! You should be okay with 5 bolts (come included with the hitch) but I'd think about drilling out the broken bolt at some point. Installation torque is 60-65 ft-lbs IIRC.

Cheers,
Duey

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:17 am

My Hidden hitch uses all three on each side

I got it here

http://www.etrailer.com/

FigMAn · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:31 am

OK Thanks !!

chetos · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:43 am

I am sure that bolt could be drilled out somehow. I doesn't look like a fun job but it could be done.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 12:58 pm

What grade bolts were you using? It shouldnt of broken that easy unless it was cross threaded or something..

RFCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:18 pm

I had a difficult time threading the bolts while installing my hitch. Had to use a tap to clean the threads.

tulsa · **Posted:** Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:52 am

Jeepster and DnA Diesel are right, the touque requirements usually are 60-65 ftlbs and the bolts should be CL 8.8 or better. I believe 10.9 is about like grade 8. If you broke the bolt off it suggests that the bolt was defective to begin with. Looks like the bolt welded to the frame would twist out before the bolt should break. I would contact the manufacturer and have a come to Jesus meeting. Is the hitch a classII or classIII?
Lewis

DnA Diesel · **Posted:** Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:14 pm

Mine were a bit stiff starting into the thread, but smoothed out as soon as the full diameter of the bolt's shank entered the nut/frame rail. I had lubed each bolt with my favourite LPS before I started them...carefully ensuring each was starting into the threads properly. Once they started going in properly, I cheated a bit by using my impact wrench to drive the bolts in ALMOST to the frame, then hand tightened all six using my torque wrench. I am very careful with impact wrenches...they can be a blessing (and a curse, if wielded by a young pup with no idea when they should or shouldn't be used - like using one to take off the lockers of my rims to put winter steelies on...snap...idiot kid!)

An 8.8 bolt is pretty strong! 8.8 = 800 MPa ultimate yield (115,000 PSI tensile) with a .8 yield (or 80% of ultimate) strength or 92,000 PSI yield strength. For an M12 bolt with 113mm2 (.17 sq.in), we're talking ~16,000 lbs nominal yield strength in axial strain...one bolt alone would hold the Libby up with a greater than 3:1 safety factor!

Cheers,
Duey

chetos · **Posted:** Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:22 pm

I had problems too when installing my hitch. It took me an hour and half to install it. Lots of cranking of two bolts. Then I looked at the threads and saw how dirty they were. I sprayed some boeshield rust remover and scrubbed out with a toothbrush then sprayed with wd-40 and 'viola' the other 4 zipped right in.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:14 am

For all the bolts on my chassis stuff I use "never seize" on the bolts. Mine were clean so I had no problem but it helps to lube the threads with it. Down the road if you want to add a skid plate for the fuel tank they'll come right out

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:00 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

For all the bolts on my chassis stuff I use "never seize" on the bolts. Mine were clean so I had no problem but it helps to lube the threads with it. Down the road if you want to add a skid plate for the fuel tank they'll come right out

x2. Mine were alittle rough going in when I put my hitch on... But I used anti-seize and when I took the hitch off to add a skid, them came right out and went back in no problem.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:54 am

Any recommendation on brand or style of Hitch for my Liberty? I’m looking to tow a ultra light travel trailer. Should I have the TOW package installed at the Dealer which includes Class III Hitch, wiring harness, adapter, heavy duty engine cooling with auxiliary oil cooler for transmission?

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:08 am

Almost any brand name trailer hitch will be effective for pulling moderate loads. I think Reese and hiden hitch are one in the same now???

The only big benefit to the tow package was that the hitch was already there, along with the trailer harness. Saved me the hasssel of trying to lift the hitch into place and installing it on my own.

The heavy duty engine cooling is just an additional fan (mechanical.) and the oil coolers.... I'm sure most people on this board can chime in with their results of trailer towing without the factory tow package installed.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:28 am

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Any recommendation on brand or style of Hitch for my Liberty? I’m looking to tow a ultra light travel trailer. Should I have the TOW package installed at the Dealer which includes Class III Hitch, wiring harness, adapter, heavy duty engine cooling with auxiliary oil cooler for transmission?

On our CRD's without towing package everything is there, besides the hitch and wiring, but the power steering cooler. It comes with the towing and off road packages and used to be standard on the first model liberties but not now. On hitches, I like hidden hitche recievers but there's another that is 2" longer that gives more room by the spare tire. But everytime you get something out of the back you'll bang your leg :!:

Another answere is a 10" ball mount instead of the standard 8 inch one. There's a good write up here.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1691
Considering our CRD/Transmission and Torque situation a aux transmission cooler would be a good idea except it might give a dealer reason to void your warranty :cry:

I ordered my hitch from etrailer :!:

Wobbly · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:28 am

Joe Romas wrote:

On our CRD's without towing package everything is there, besides the hitch and wiring, but the power steering cooler. It comes with the towing and off road packages and used to be standard on the first model liberties but not now. On hitches, I like hidden hitche recievers but there's another that is 2" longer that gives more room by the spare tire. But everytime you get something out of the back you'll bang your leg :!:

Another answere is a 10" ball mount instead of the standard 8 inch one. There's a good write up here.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1691
Considering our CRD/Transmission and Torque situation a aux transmission cooler would be a good idea except it might give a dealer reason to void your warranty :cry:

I ordered my hitch from etrailer :!:

The benefit of a transmission cooler for towing is obvious, but why a power steering cooler is beneficial is not that clear. What's the rationale?

Thanks

Jeger · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:26 pm

Wobbly wrote:

The benefit of a transmission cooler for towing is obvious, but why a power steering cooler is beneficial is not that clear. What's the rationale?
Thanks

This if funny...two different people in different topics...exact same question.

Jeger wrote:

It is my understanding that PS coolers are added to help keep the pump cool when you are maneuvering a trailer. Depending on the situation and driver experience, you could really give it a workout...ever watch someone back a trailer for the first time? If not you should try it, just go to the closest boat ramp....and bring popcorn.

Wobbly · **Posted:** Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:58 pm

Jeger wrote:

Wobbly wrote:

The benefit of a transmission cooler for towing is obvious, but why a power steering cooler is beneficial is not that clear. What's the rationale?
Thanks

This if funny...two different people in different topics...exact same question.

Jeger wrote:

It is my understanding that PS coolers are added to help keep the pump cool when you are maneuvering a trailer. Depending on the situation and driver experience, you could really give it a workout...ever watch someone back a trailer for the first time? If not you should try it, just go to the closest boat ramp....and bring popcorn.

I haven't seen the CRD P/S cooler setup. Does an auxiliary fan kick on based on fluid temperature, or does the engine fan remove the cooler heat? BTW, I saw a reference to a 'viscous heater'. What's that do?

Liberty Hitch HELP!!!

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