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 Post subject: No Start
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:20 am 
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It started up fine, put it in reverse and it died and wouldn't re-start. Got to thinking, since this is my first NO START situation: I'll check the fuel filter bleeder, sure enough full of air. Bled the air out and it started fine.

Just a note to you all. Remember the air in fuel your reading about and keep a 11mm wrench handy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 1:16 am 
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I'm thinking they should have built an 11mm wrench into the key. It couldn't have made it any bigger. :roll: Before I replaced the fuel filter head on mine, I had to drive across town to bleed the air out when the Jeep failed to start at the inlaw's.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:48 am 
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Had the same problem this morning. Now to begin the process of elimination and find the culprit. It's got to be a loose fuel line somewhere.

In the past I've read a lot about this problem but never read a solid answer to the fix or, should I say, a discovery of a common design flaw.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout


Last edited by crdmike on Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:50 am 
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Have you checked the electrical connections on the filter head? At least a few of us have had leaks from the fuel heater connection. It is easier to find with the plug removed and the system pressurized by the primer pump.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:55 am 
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Goglio704 wrote:
Have you checked the electrical connections on the filter head? At least a few of us have had leaks from the fuel heater connection. It is easier to find with the plug removed and the system pressurized by the primer pump.


I will look there, thanks.

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V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
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Mobil 1 5W40
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Amsoil Throughout


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:22 pm 
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It's the Heater connection that's leaking. Off to the freaking dealer

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Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
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Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 7:09 pm 
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That is at least four of us that I can think of. Darby Walters, RFCRD, crdmike, and Goglio704 (me) It is not confined to one model year either. :roll:

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:46 pm 
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crdmike wrote:
It's the Heater connection that's leaking. Off to the freaking dealer

This is a common issue and a more serious safety problem than most people realize. Please take the time to file a complaint on the NHTSA website.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 3:35 pm 
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Well, just an up-date:

Got the leaking fuel problem repaired today after close to two weeks of waiting for parts.

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V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 3:50 pm 
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crdmike wrote:
Well, just an up-date:

Got the leaking fuel problem repaired today after close to two weeks of waiting for parts.



What was the cause? What parts?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:54 pm 
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BVCRD wrote:
crdmike wrote:
Well, just an up-date:

Got the leaking fuel problem repaired today after close to two weeks of waiting for parts.



What was the cause? What parts?


It's all in this thread; basically, the electrical connection for the fuel heater at the fuel filter housing was leaking. I found it through some advice from Goglio704 after complaining of a "No Start" situation that I cured by bleeding the fuel but was continuing to happen almost daily. I never had a problem until I plugged the heater in, which could just be a coincidence, but never the less, causing a solid leak that was also allowing air to seep into the fuel.

From the others this has happened to it looks like another weak link to watch. From now on, as a precautionary measure, I'll just do the quick plug in when it's necessary to warm up the fuel.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:13 pm 
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crdmike wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
crdmike wrote:
Well, just an up-date:

Got the leaking fuel problem repaired today after close to two weeks of waiting for parts.



What was the cause? What parts?


It's all in this thread; basically, the electrical connection for the fuel heater at the fuel filter housing was leaking. I found it through some advice from Goglio704 after complaining of a "No Start" situation that I cured by bleeding the fuel but was continuing to happen almost daily. I never had a problem until I plugged the heater in, which could just be a coincidence, but never the less, causing a solid leak that was also allowing air to seep into the fuel.

From the others this has happened to it looks like another weak link to watch. From now on, as a precautionary measure, I'll just do the quick plug in when it's necessary to warm up the fuel.




Never had to plug mine in yet. Heated Garage. I wonder if RFCRD has plugged his in? I think his was the first to leak.

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Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:41 pm 
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crdmike wrote:
It's all in this thread; basically, the electrical connection for the fuel heater at the fuel filter housing was leaking.


BVCRD wrote:

Never had to plug mine in yet. Heated Garage. I wonder if RFCRD has plugged his in? I think his was the first to leak.


If you read a little slower, you'll notice that crdmike is talking about the fuel heater which is located on top of the fuel/water separator. This has nothing to do with the 110 AC plug that I believe your referencing along with not needing to plug it in since you have a heated garage.

When facing the fuel/water separator the fuel heater there are two electrical connectors already plugged in by the factory. The plug on the right is the circuit power for the fuel heater.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:53 pm 
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DZL_LOU wrote:
crdmike wrote:
It's all in this thread; basically, the electrical connection for the fuel heater at the fuel filter housing was leaking.


BVCRD wrote:

Never had to plug mine in yet. Heated Garage. I wonder if RFCRD has plugged his in? I think his was the first to leak.


If you read a little slower, you'll notice that crdmike is talking about the fuel heater which is located on top of the fuel/water separator. This has nothing to do with the 110 AC plug that I believe your referencing along with not needing to plug it in since you have a heated garage.

When facing the fuel/water separator the fuel heater there are two electrical connectors already plugged in by the factory. The plug on the right is the circuit power for the fuel heater.




Thanks a bunch. I was confused. I guess I never dreamed that he would plug in, un plug one of those as needed. Is he doing this to prevent a possible future leak from heat cycles, or possible future fire from a leak? I noticed those when I changed the fuel filter. I was concerned about disconnecting them if I chose to take the whole head off for filter replacement. Didn't want to screw em up. I opted to used a strap wrench. Thanks.

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Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:12 pm 
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My Jeep is still at the dealer and has been since Nov, 28 2006. I don't have a list of parts yet but basically every part from the tank pick up to the Injectors has been or is being replaced. The filter housing helped a lot but something in the pick up tube was leaking. The mechanic cussed a few words when I asked it the quick connect by the tank. He wanted to cut the fitting out and replace it with a hose. Good instinct but DC wouldn't allow it. I looked at my old rail and it had a lot of goop in in. Don't know how that got past the filter, had to come from the pump.

They are replacing the CP3 pump, rail and injectors now. They say the bad fuel I got ruined the pump but they are going to warranty it anyway??? Shell oil says their fuel passed every test and I was the only one to file a claim. Their fuel is tested daily (by the same idiot that can't give you correct change), so it can't possibly be their fuel. BTW, the pumps where I bought the fuel are shut off and they don't have a sign up for diesel anymore. The mechanic says bull manure, he fixed another truck at the same time with the same problem. It was Shell diesel. Shell denied my claim so I am having my fuel sample tested by a lab.

Personally, I think the extended running with air in the fuel is what messed up the pump. The pump requires fuel to cool and lube it. If air is in the fuel, you get metal to metal contact and ruined seals. I've had bad mileage and a lot of smoke since new. Took it in two times for the problem and the previous dealer said there were no codes so no problem. There is a specific test in the Service Manual for Air in Fuel. Poor mileage and excessive smoke are reasons to run the test. Insist that it be done and get it fixed soon.

Fun times.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:14 pm 
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Just a question. Not really to Blake because I think he has other issues. You who have had the air leaks, is it possible that the leaks were created by over pumping, and bleeding and priming the fuel system? I have read that primer damage can occur if you over do it. Could this higher pressure have cause the seal leak at the electrical conection?

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Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:20 pm 
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BVCRD wrote:
Just a question. Not really to Blake because I think he has other issues. You who have had the air leaks, is it possible that the leaks were created by over pumping, and bleeding and priming the fuel system? I have read that primer damage can occur if you over do it. Could this higher pressure have cause the seal leak at the electrical conection?


No, the only time you use the primer is to bleed air because the engine wont start. The bleeder diaphragm pressure is designed for that system.

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2006 CRD Limited
V6 Air Filter Box Mod with Amsoil EaA-201 Air Filter
Mann Provent CCV Filter
Magnaflow Muffler
Mopar Skids
Mobil 1 5W40
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Amsoil Throughout


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:41 pm 
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crdmike wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
Just a question. Not really to Blake because I think he has other issues. You who have had the air leaks, is it possible that the leaks were created by over pumping, and bleeding and priming the fuel system? I have read that primer damage can occur if you over do it. Could this higher pressure have cause the seal leak at the electrical conection?


No, the only time you use the primer is to bleed air because the engine wont start. The bleeder diaphragm pressure is designed for that system.



I didn't know if excessive pumping damage was linked to the fuel heat area. What if people hearing all this air stuff went out and tried to find some air, and pumped too much and damaged it that way?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:50 pm 
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BVCRD wrote:
crdmike wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
Just a question. Not really to Blake because I think he has other issues. You who have had the air leaks, is it possible that the leaks were created by over pumping, and bleeding and priming the fuel system? I have read that primer damage can occur if you over do it. Could this higher pressure have cause the seal leak at the electrical conection?


No, the only time you use the primer is to bleed air because the engine wont start. The bleeder diaphragm pressure is designed for that system.



I didn't know if excessive pumping damage was linked to the fuel heat area.

The pressure is working in the same area. This hand pump shouldn't generate enough pressure to cause damage. The leak issue is likely a failure of the ring/casting encasing the heater element but can't tell exactly because I didn't get to inspect the damaged part. Most likely it cracked allowing fuel to flow around the element and out the connector when pressurized. When the engine is running, it's under vaccuum thus air flows in slowly and is slowed even more by the seal on the electrical connector, thus hard to find.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:03 pm 
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RFCRD wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
crdmike wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
Just a question. Not really to Blake because I think he has other issues. You who have had the air leaks, is it possible that the leaks were created by over pumping, and bleeding and priming the fuel system? I have read that primer damage can occur if you over do it. Could this higher pressure have cause the seal leak at the electrical conection?


No, the only time you use the primer is to bleed air because the engine wont start. The bleeder diaphragm pressure is designed for that system.



I didn't know if excessive pumping damage was linked to the fuel heat area.

The pressure is working in the same area. This hand pump shouldn't generate enough pressure to cause damage. The leak issue is likely a failure of the ring/casting encasing the heater element but can't tell exactly because I didn't get to inspect the damaged part. Most likely it cracked allowing fuel to flow around the element and out the connector when pressurized. When the engine is running, it's under vaccuum thus air flows in slowly and is slowed even more by the seal on the electrical connector, thus hard to find.




But the manual does say that excessive pumping may damage this thing. Am I correct or not?

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Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?


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