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 Post subject: A new KJ Front Bumper
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:28 pm 
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Mr. Machine
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Here it is. Had a local 4WD fabrication shop make this for me. Sweet and simple and strong as an Ox. The turn signal/running lights have not arrived yet but they're basically LEDs in a long oval design. They'll be tucked under the upper bar to the outside. On the lower bar to the inside will be fogs. When done there'll be 4 FF75 Hellas instead of just the two shown.

Note it uses the existing front hitch. No worries about ratings that way.

I 'decorated' the KJ body behind the bumper. See that at http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 424#184424

Someone will ask: $350.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:12 pm 
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That's one mean lookin KJ. Very, very, shiny! :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:15 pm 
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gotta throw some cut out teeth & fangs in there Matt :lol:

again awesome bumper :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:46 pm 
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Wonder if you could connect the side of it with some tubing all the way to the boulder bar? Then you would have a mini exo-skeleton.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:12 pm 
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Rear bumper next??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:28 pm 
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Rock Lizard rear bumper.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:41 pm 
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In the bottom two it look like a modern baja bug front end. Looking good.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:33 pm 
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Nice bumper Matty. I like the simple execution. Are you leaving it open or plating it at all? Nice work!

Dave

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:35 pm 
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Nice, Matt--just what you need, nothing more. Perfect.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 11:49 pm 
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Thanks guys. He'll build more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 9:43 am 
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Slick. I love tube style bumpers.

Any reason he didn't follow the basic contour of the sheet metal front subframe section w/ that lower bar so it would be protected? If that spot gets hit it is going to crush pretty easily.
Looking forward to seeing how the turn signals work out.

Does his price include a hitch to build it off or will he be building it differently/ pricing it higher for those that don't have a hitch?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:06 am 
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JJsKJ wrote:
Slick. I love tube style bumpers.

Any reason he didn't follow the basic contour of the sheet metal front subframe section w/ that lower bar so it would be protected? If that spot gets hit it is going to crush pretty easily.


Prolly cuz it was open in the first place with my old bumper and it's cut out. Doesn't mean the next one can't be different.

JJsKJ wrote:
Looking forward to seeing how the turn signals work out.

Does his price include a hitch to build it off or will he be building it differently/ pricing it higher for those that don't have a hitch?


He used my existing hitch. As far as what his price is you'd need to call and ask him. Unless he gets some interest, of course, he won't build more.

This is a guy who is starting his own shop after 15 years at a local shop. Interestingly he's already very busy which indicates the quality of his work. I'm trying to get him as a LOST supporter.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:26 pm 
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whats the dia. and thickness of the tubing?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 2:56 pm 
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1 3/4" diameter. Dunno the thickness but it'd be a stretch to call it tubing.

The assembly BTW weighs about as much as the plastic 'bumper'.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:27 pm 
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If tubing is stronger than a solid steel rod ( in terms of bending), at what point (holllowed out) would the tubing need to be at its strongest thickness?

Where are the mechanical engineers for this?



Nice, Matt.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:38 pm 
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AZScout wrote:
Nice bumper Matty. I like the simple execution. Are you leaving it open or plating it at all? Nice work!

Dave


Thanks Dave. Credits go to Rob McIntyre at Four Wheel Perfection for building this. I wanted something that would protect the front end, look good, and not be so heavy that it knocked down my lousy gas mileage another notch.

Also wanted to somewhat complement the KJ's curves and styling, something the others on the market don't do.

I'm going to leave it open and painted hammertone grey for now. Dunno if you noticed the dressing I put on it. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 52&start=0


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:44 pm 
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Tokyojoe wrote:
If tubing is stronger than a solid steel rod ( in terms of bending), at what point (holllowed out) would the tubing need to be at its strongest thickness?

Where are the mechanical engineers for this?



Nice, Matt.


The support for the "tubes" is 3/8" steel. The 2" receiver is the part that sticks out the most. Far more protection than the plastic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:11 pm 
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Strength depends on tubing material, diameter, wall thickness and design...Most roll cages for SCCA racing are 2" with .120 wall thickness DOM

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:32 pm 
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Some Sch 40 Pipe would be Overkill but some Sprinkler Pipe (Sch 30) would be cheaper lighter and also at least thick enough, maybe cheaper then buying tubing from a metal supply house.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 12:28 am 
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That green spaceman really adds a great touch. Will he make it to Moab?

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Last edited by spencevans on Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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