so whats the deal...Aussie TJM Bumper???

ratmloud · **Posted:** Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:13 pm

anyone get the final word on The tjm bumper yet? I need price and availiblity in the U.S.A?

I can't decide, I dont like the arb and I dont want the rocklizard because I want the winch mounted perm. to the bumper and cant seem to shell out the 1100 on the trailready, so Its either the tjm or buy a welder and start making my own.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:46 pm

ratmloud wrote:

anyone get the final word on The tjm bumper yet? I need price and availiblity in the U.S.A?

I can't decide, I dont like the arb and I dont want the rocklizard because I want the winch mounted perm. to the bumper and cant seem to shell out the 1100 on the trailready, so Its either the tjm or buy a welder and start making my own.

Buy a welder for a few hundred and start making your own! :wink:

Can't wait to see it! :shock:

ratmloud · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:58 am

JJsKJ wrote:

Buy a welder for a few hundred and start making your own! :wink:

Can't wait to see it! :shock:

I JUST ordered a welder...

so I will be making my own, as well as a roof rack. oh ya and some more sliders :wink:

Jeger · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:05 am

Which welder did you get?

ratmloud · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:22 am

I got a hobart 140. I wanted to be move it around easy able to tack, etc on 110v

I usually use a miller tig but its on 220 and not easy to move around, and slower.

I have used a friends hobart 140 and its is fantastic for a 110v, so i grabbed one!

it does a great job on gas at 3/16 or
fluxcore on 1/4' steel...

gopherbeats · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:51 pm

Sweet! I'll take the extra bumper you weld up!

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:55 pm

ratmloud wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

Buy a welder for a few hundred and start making your own! :wink:

Can't wait to see it! :shock:

I JUST ordered a welder...

so I will be making my own, as well as a roof rack. oh ya and some more sliders :wink:

WTG! You will surely earn back the cost of that welder with those projects.
Mine has paid for itself a few times over now.

Jeger · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:27 pm

I was going to go with the handler 187. But if the 140 will turn out good welds on 1/4" w/ flux core....perhaps I will save a couple hundred bucks and get it instead. Then I will also have a more portable welder. What do you think? For a hobby type (not production work) welder will the 140 make me happy with up to 1/4" material? Oh, and have you ever tried it on aluminum?

ratmloud · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:39 pm

never done alum.

but if you have 220v more power is always better, depends how much 1/4 you gonna weld?. The 140 will do 1/4 on flux with good results if prepped properly (good bare metal and beveled edges)

I wont prob ever (hardly ever) use 1/4.

everything from bumpers to sliders to whatever is gonna be 3/16, no need for 1/4. so the hobart 140 will be good to go.

BTW I am no pro welder, just your average driveway mechanic, new to welding becasue I hate waiting on people and they just dont make enough stuff they way i want it, SO I made some rock sliders and thy turned out way better than i expected, so I figure make some more stuff :lol:

ratmloud · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:51 pm

HERE is another question.....MY topic was "so whats the deal" and now it says "so whats the deal.. aussie tmj bumper??

why? who changed it?

I didnt write that...I would never say aussie and its TJM not TMJ

please leave my posts alone :cry:

raceinfan · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:06 pm

probably one of the admins changed it so people would know what the thread was about

I just changed the TMJ to TJM

if your bumper comes out good I might have you make me one & take a ride to your house to put it on :twisted:

chetos · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:25 pm

ratmloud wrote:

never done alum.

but if you have 220v more power is always better, depends how much 1/4 you gonna weld?. The 140 will do 1/4 on flux with good results if prepped properly (good bare metal and beveled edges)

I wont prob ever (hardly ever) use 1/4.

everything from bumpers to sliders to whatever is gonna be 3/16, no need for 1/4. so the hobart 140 will be good to go.

BTW I am no pro welder, just your average driveway mechanic, new to welding becasue I hate waiting on people and they just dont make enough stuff they way i want it, SO I made some rock sliders and thy turned out way better than i expected, so I figure make some more stuff :lol:

220v vs. 110v doesn't equate more power correct?? I have a table saw that when wired at 110v, I tripped my garage breaker all the time so I rewired it to 220v and ran a 220v outlet from the junction box. It runs smooth now but not anymore power. I don't know anything about welders, though. Wish I did. :cry:

OzLtd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:56 pm

ratmloud wrote:

HERE is another question.....MY topic was "so whats the deal" and now it says "so whats the deal.. aussie tmj bumper??

why? who changed it?

I didnt write that...I would never say aussie and its TJM not TMJ

please leave my posts alone :cry:

Or better still, shouldnt this thread be moved to the FAB section now ?

Guest · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:44 am

chetos wrote:

220v vs. 110v doesn't equate more power correct?? I have a table saw that when wired at 110v, I tripped my garage breaker all the time so I rewired it to 220v and ran a 220v outlet from the junction box. It runs smooth now but not anymore power. I don't know anything about welders, though. Wish I did. :cry:

220v system will allow for the purchase of a higher power unit. Your table saw won't gain more power by switching from 110v to 220v, and neither will the same welder gain power if you rewire it. However, when you go to a 220v system, you can buy a higher power unit & be at a household current draw (amps). I just got a Porter Cable router, It is 110V, 3.25 HP, at 15 amps. If I could convert it to 220V, it would still be 3.25 HP, but it would only draw 7.5 amps. If the 220V circuit I installed was 15 amps, I theoretically could put a 6.5 HP router on that same outlet.

chetos · **Posted:** Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:18 am

KJpilot wrote:

chetos wrote:

220v vs. 110v doesn't equate more power correct?? I have a table saw that when wired at 110v, I tripped my garage breaker all the time so I rewired it to 220v and ran a 220v outlet from the junction box. It runs smooth now but not anymore power. I don't know anything about welders, though. Wish I did. :cry:

220v system will allow for the purchase of a higher power unit. Your table saw won't gain more power by switching from 110v to 220v, and neither will the same welder gain power if you rewire it. However, when you go to a 220v system, you can buy a higher power unit & be at a household current draw (amps). I just got a Porter Cable router, It is 110V, 3.25 HP, at 15 amps. If I could convert it to 220V, it would still be 3.25 HP, but it would only draw 7.5 amps. If the 220V circuit I installed was 15 amps, I theoretically could put a 6.5 HP router on that same outlet.

Yeah, what he said. Thanks!

Why wouldn't manufactors give you the oppurtunity to rewire something running @ 15 amps--like your router?? I am in the market for planer and I have to chose one that I can rewire because I really don't feel like rewiring my garage. 15 amps @110v in my garage is scarry!!! BTW. I just noticed your HP...3.25??? That's pretty nice. I thought my Dewalt kit 2.25 was nice. Geez....

Guest · **Posted:** Fri Mar 30, 2007 2:58 pm

chetos wrote:

BTW. I just noticed your HP...3.25??? That's pretty nice. I thought my Dewalt kit 2.25 was nice. Geez....

It's a monster! I bought it for a router table install. Haven't had a chance to use it, the table doesn't exist yet, & probably won't for a month or so :cry:

My other car is in need of serious work, & I was already short of time :shock:

so whats the deal...Aussie TJM Bumper???

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