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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:59 pm 
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no mate i had no problems with my factory struts and shocks with the ome coils BUT

once your lifted you will want to try stuff ;) the more stuff you try the more Droop and flex you will need


you guys are lucky in the states to buy 2 struts and 2 shock ( rancho RSX ) states side you would only get 1 1/2 2shocks here in australia

depending how old and how many miles your jeep has traveled replacing the front struts is a VERY good Idea the rears are easy but you will have to take the front coil assembly apart to put in the new spring

hell James at Jeepers and creepers has the RSX 17505 front struts at $75.00 ea

and the rear RSX17004's at $62.00 ea

but yes it is possible and you would get the 1 1/2" advertised

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:10 pm 
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Alright, great. Exactly what I was hoping to hear.

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I've got a little thinking to do now as to how I want to approach this. Ideally I'll be installing in 3-4 weeks.

If I think of anything else, I'll be back for more advice. This board is immensely helpful.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:53 pm 
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If you got 50k on the stock struts and have plans to pull them for what ever reason then I say replace them
IMO struts/shocks never go more than 35-45K ,at least none that I have ever owned stock or otherwise

YES you can put the OME springs on the oe struts but like I and others have said why?
Doing that is like polishing a turd ,rub away it is still a turd
the same would go for putting on a spacer lift
One thing I dont know is what will happen to the ride it may get worse
The higher pring rate may cause tire bounce on the worn strut


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:29 pm 
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I guess what it comes down to is that every time I say, "ok, I'll save for the good stuff", something comes up and I end up back at the start ( for example, college textbooks....a real kick in the teeth at $650 a semester).

So I'm just at a point where I'm going to at least do something now. If I have to tear it apart again to replace struts, fine. By doing things this way, I'll have the look and height I want now, at a slightly better quality than spacers, and the ability to add later on.

This also is less of a shock to my savings than would be a ~$500 full suspension overhaul, which when on a college budget, is nice.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 5:23 pm 
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CTjeeper16 wrote:
I guess what it comes down to is that every time I say, "ok, I'll save for the good stuff", something comes up and I end up back at the start ( for example, college textbooks....a real kick in the teeth at $650 a semester).

So I'm just at a point where I'm going to at least do something now. If I have to tear it apart again to replace struts, fine. By doing things this way, I'll have the look and height I want now, at a slightly better quality than spacers, and the ability to add later on.

This also is less of a shock to my savings than would be a ~$500 full suspension overhaul, which when on a college budget, is nice.

I know what you mean. I really wanted the Rusty's Coil Lift, but I was strapped for cash at the time, so I made due. My expenses were as follows:

Daystar spacer lift + shipping from All J: $190
Dinner with my brother's family after he did most of the lift install (5 hours): $85 w/tip
Fuel for roundtrip travel to my brother's house: $40
Alignment and retorquing of suspension bolts after 500 miles: $100
TOTAL = $415

The one lift-friendly Jeep dealership wanted about $500 to install the $170 Daystar. I said NO WAY because I was still paying off my tires and a few other Jeep items. They wanted to charge $900 to install the $700 Skyjacker kit.

Even if my brother and I had put on the Rusty's kit, it would have cost me about $725 when all is said and done. Way more than I could budget at the time. I know in the larger world of 4x4 offroading, the best KJ kits are cheap compared to high-end kits from Full Traction, Pro Comp, and others. But I had to weigh the cost of the lift against the amount and difficutly of wheeling I do. 12,000 miles later, I feel I made the best decision I could. Yes, I'm compromising a bit on ride quality, but the improved ground clearance has helped me on the trail, I can fit my tires better, and my KJ looks better.

Is it ideal? No, but it's a compromise I can live with. I know my struts could fail at any time. I assumed that risk knowing the possible outcomes. With only 40,000 miles on the KJ, it didn't make sense to discard oem parts that were still working. When my struts are blown, I will yank the front spacers and upgrade to OME struts and OME medium springs. I know in the long run that I will pay more for not installing a coil lift from the start. But you know what? With all my other expenses, I'd still be saving for that lift right now and taking a lot more bypasses on the trails.

You do the best you can with what you got. One way you can save money on a good lift is buy it on a credit card promotion; they sometimes will send you convenience checks with 0% interest for 6 mos or a year. You can pay for your coil lift that way, and pay for it over time without interest.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:15 am 
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I'm planning to change to OME springs, does anyone have to install a bigger bumpstops??
I used to have an OTT lift in the past (very bad experience, I know :cry: ) and those guys never told me I needed a bigger bumpstops :evil: , in fact the assure there is no needed to have them (it was my first lift kit) :oops:
Anyway I just want to know if is necessary for the OMEs,if the case what is the best option and where can get those??

Thanks for any help


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:44 am 
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I have a OME lift and dont require bumpstops but iam also only running 235/75/16's. Iam sure if you had the 245's you would have some rubbing at full "stuff". I recommend the OME its a great choice.

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2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:10 pm 
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Location: Harahan LA (the burbs)
radame wrote:
I'm planning to change to OME springs, does anyone have to install a bigger bumpstops??
I used to have an OTT lift in the past (very bad experience, I know :cry: ) and those guys never told me I needed a bigger bumpstops :evil: , in fact the assure there is no needed to have them (it was my first lift kit) :oops:
Anyway I just want to know if is necessary for the OMEs,if the case what is the best option and where can get those??

Thanks for any help




We have 245/75 MTR's on OE wheels and only get very little rubbing at very full stuff on the rear ,1 tire in the air

I can tell you this ANY rim other than the OE wheel ,limited for sure, and you will have problems
I can just clear the flair and it rubs a "clean spot" in side the wheel well and they also rub on the inner back wall
I have how ever wheeled a bit like this and when I wach it it looks fine ,no bad pull on the liners
I could stop it with a 1" bump stop spacer but like I said it only rubs at very full stuff the front is fine ,lots of room


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:10 pm 
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Video guy,

Nicely said. It's all a compromise. If it was up to everyone, we would all be driving on 35's with SFA. Many people are limited be it on budget or time, or both.

The Liberty will never be a rock crawler, or a mud bogger, or whatever other offroad contraption you can find that can only go offroad, but it is a very capable vehicule offroad in. So, why save for the Ferrari, when you can get a GTI, SRT4,8 or any other fairly quick car. If it meets your needs, then it's perfect.

I'm happy as hell with my Daystar lift. No, problems whatsoever. Even with a clevis lift, the spacer has a lip that acts as a bump stop for the UCA.

In the front the spring rate is changed with the spacer. So now, I have room to mount a winch without it looking like it's dragging its front end. It's a little tighter but frankly I couldn't notice.

In the back, the factory spring is the same. So, nothing has changed here. The only benefit I can see to a full spring is if you need a higher rate spring. If you use factory shocks, the range of motion of the axel remains exactly the same. I know that there are people who disagree with this but ask them to show you and you'll see.

We are currently in the process of doing the final preparation for a trip down the continental divide straight to Moab for a total distance of more than 5000 miles (8000 km). The vehicule will carry pretty much 2 weeks of supplies and will be close to it's maximum weight. We will try to distribute the weight as close to the front of the vehicule as possible since the back springs are stock. If it sits ok then no further modifications will not be made, but if it sits a little low than maybe an extra isolator will be used. Personally, I'd rather use a solid steel spacer, or reweld the spring perch slightly lower, but with the price of these spacers you can't go wrong. If this doesn't work, then maybe and only them would I get HD springs. And that's only for the back.

Currently, I have it loaded with about 250 lbs worth of stuff and it seems like it's level. With 2 guys and 700 lbs of evenly spaced equipement, it could be a different story. But, as soon as we test it out fully loaded, I will post some pics.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 11:21 pm 
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jason thompson wrote:
radame wrote:
I'm planning to change to OME springs.....


We have 245/75 MTR's on OE wheels and only get very little rubbing at very full stuff on the rear ,1 tire in the air

I can tell you this ANY rim other than the OE wheel ,limited for sure, and you will have problems
I can just clear the flair and it rubs a "clean spot" in side the wheel well and they also rub on the inner back wall
I have how ever wheeled a bit like this and when I wach it it looks fine ,no bad pull on the liners
I could stop it with a 1" bump stop spacer but like I said it only rubs at very full stuff the front is fine ,lots of room



Hi Jason, thanks a lot for the info but rubbing is not my concern!
I was talking about front bumpstops, my concern is regarding damage in the struts due the OTT I had long time ago.
If you don't install bigger bumpstops in the front with an OTT lift your struts will blow out as the susp compress all the strut, I would like to know if there is a risk to have the same problem as the susp is longer

Thanks!!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:57 am 
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tommudd wrote:
Oh yes someone said you can not get a coil lift for under 500 mine was 460 shipped to my door


Yeah, but is that with the Rusty's POS shocks? I got the same price from rusty's but I upgraded to the OME rear shocks. With shipping it was over 500.

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RRO sliders,Skid Row tranny plate,oem skids
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245/75 R16 wrangler M/T R's Al's arms, Moog LBJ's
K&N drop in filter, Thule racks 60"
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:45 pm 
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Location: Harahan LA (the burbs)
radame wrote:
jason thompson wrote:
radame wrote:
I'm planning to change to OME springs.....


We have 245/75 MTR's on OE wheels and only get very little rubbing at very full stuff on the rear ,1 tire in the air

I can tell you this ANY rim other than the OE wheel ,limited for sure, and you will have problems
I can just clear the flair and it rubs a "clean spot" in side the wheel well and they also rub on the inner back wall
I have how ever wheeled a bit like this and when I wach it it looks fine ,no bad pull on the liners
I could stop it with a 1" bump stop spacer but like I said it only rubs at very full stuff the front is fine ,lots of room



Hi Jason, thanks a lot for the info but rubbing is not my concern!
I was talking about front bumpstops, my concern is regarding damage in the struts due the OTT I had long time ago.
If you don't install bigger bumpstops in the front with an OTT lift your struts will blow out as the susp compress all the strut, I would like to know if there is a risk to have the same problem as the susp is longer

Thanks!!!



From what I have been told the OME struts are the same length as the OE strut some one else may know for sure
I do know that I can get 1 rear tire 6" in the air and still not hit the bump stop on the front
I can still see silver piston on the strut

Just to be sure just call OME/ARB direct and ask


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:22 pm 
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steepcreekfreak, not sure if u can read or not, but I DO NOT HAVE A RUSTYS LIFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dont like them. :wink:
I have OME Heavy Duty coils from ALL Js , Rancho struts and shocks as it says below :lol: :lol: :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 11:59 am 
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tommudd wrote:
steepcreekfreak, not sure if u can read or not, but I DO NOT HAVE A RUSTYS LIFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dont like them. :wink:
I have OME Heavy Duty coils from ALL Js , Rancho struts and shocks as it says below :lol: :lol: :wink:


sorry didn't read your profile. I figured a OME coil with new struts and such would cost a bunch more than that. 460 is the cost for a standard rusty's lift.

By the way what do you not like about the rusty's? I love mine. I have had almost no sag and it rides great.

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03' renegade with light bar, limited slip rear diff,
rusty's 2.5 lift, 3/8"clevis, 2 iso pads
RRO sliders,Skid Row tranny plate,oem skids
Curt rear hitch with D shackle,
245/75 R16 wrangler M/T R's Al's arms, Moog LBJ's
K&N drop in filter, Thule racks 60"
Husky mats,Wet Okole seat covers
Garmin Nav, Spidertrax spacers


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:31 pm 
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Well for one with Rustys dont like their service, 2nd when I was starting to look at lifts back in 04 some said that Rustys springs would sag after a while, plus ARB/OME is a trusted name in providing good handeling lifts. They do not lift only to see how high they can go but for ride, handeling, etc. I tried to deal with Rustys but after waiting for parts that never came, and promises that never came through, I thought I could find other places that needed my money more. Its like the rear shocks, keeps selling them even if they dont work. In my book they are only one step above RRO But I do realize that people buy his lifts due to the lower cost and most will never keep the Liberty as long as I plan to. OK off the soapbox now :wink: :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:02 pm 
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Tommudd honestly that is exactly the same reasons why i went with the OME lift as well. Not trying to bash rusty's or anything...!

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2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:24 pm 
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renegadekj ~ I noticed in your sig that you also used the Rusty's strut plate. Did you need to add the plates to level your KJ or just for a bit more lift.

tommudd ~ You've helped me out before and I'm hoping you can, again. I still keep coming back to running the OME springs with either Rancho or OME struts and shocks rather than a Rusty's coil lift or a Frankenlift. Because of the cost difference I'll probably opt for the Rancho's. Which Rancho rear shock did you use? I've seen one mentioned on the forum for stock height and another for use with a 2 1/2 inch lift.

Finally, is an extended bumpstop like the Daystar unit recommended with the OME rear springs?

My plan is to use the OME springs for a mild lift and go up one size to a 245/65/17 tire on my stock rims (or a 245/70/16 if I find a good deal on some Moabs) to keep the unsprung weight down and hopefully acheive better off-roadability without sacrificing too much, if any, fuel mileage. I'm also hoping to avoid the BJ contact problems of a taller lift.

Thanks

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OME / Rancho Lift / Rockcrusher rear Diff Cover / Super Skink Sliders (not installed yet)
245/75R16 GY MT/R's with Crager 16 x 8 x 5" BS wheels
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:37 pm 
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Where do you guys buy your products from? I've only really browsed the selection of the two aforementioned establishments.

Im looking for an OME Lift as well. For the 1.5" setup with coils and shocks, it rang in at about $1200CDN locally. Or about $1050-$1100USD. Compared to the advertised prices online, thats ALOT. Nearly double.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:39 pm 
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sandracer
I did used the rusty's plates to level out the suspension. I bet that if i had of used the HD coils in the front( Like i remember tommudd said i should do :? ) it would have been pretty level. Buy the way be prepared to ream out the holes in the rusty's strut plates, they didn't line up AT ALL. You would think that they would have the holes right?! Sandracer if you alsoo want more lift with the OME coils you can do a clevis and rear isolator lift also. (I'm installing the clevis lift soon)

Josh

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**REMEMBER YOU CAN ALWAYS GET A HUMMER IN A JEEP.... YOU CAN'T GET A JEEP IN A HUMMER**
2003 Jeep Liberty(KJ) Renegade,235/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors 245/75/16 MTR's,Factory Skids, Selec-Trac,trac lock,Husky Floor Liners,OME Lift,948 rear/926 front,Rusty's strut plate,clevis 2.5 "s, Al's UCA's Gen 4.5.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:49 pm 
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renegadekj wrote:
sandracer
I did used the rusty's plates to level out the suspension. I bet that if i had of used the HD coils in the front( Like i remember tommudd said i should do :? ) it would have been pretty level. Buy the way be prepared to ream out the holes in the rusty's strut plates, they didn't line up AT ALL. You would think that they would have the holes right?! Sandracer if you alsoo want more lift with the OME coils you can do a clevis and rear isolator lift also. (I'm installing the clevis lift soon)

Josh


It's not that I want to lift as high as I can, I'd just like my KJ to sit fairly level.

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2007 KJ Limited 4x4

29G, Tow pkg, full skids, bun warmers, moon roof
Amsoil Air Filter, CB, custom cargo box
OME / Rancho Lift / Rockcrusher rear Diff Cover / Super Skink Sliders (not installed yet)
245/75R16 GY MT/R's with Crager 16 x 8 x 5" BS wheels
L.O.S.T. # 005465


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