Clicking when turning.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jul 20, 2007 11:37 pm

Idk whats causing it and I cannot figure it out. It usually only does it when I turn left at or close to full lock. No vibrations.

Ive jacked it up by the lower control arms and turned the steering wheel to lock and everything is fine. I can spin the wheel all day and its as smooth as it can be. No slack in the cv joints what so ever.

I only have the rustys lift with 2 conduit nuts so my lift isnt near as high as a liberty with the franken lift would be. Ive confirmed its at least 1" lower.

Any ideas? I need to get this figured out.

27k miles.

SILVERJEEPKJ · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 12:09 am

cv joints are bad.... need to replace the cv halfshafts>>>>>> :cry:

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 12:19 am

Ive checked both of them and they seem to be fine. I cant just replace both of them to see if it goes away.. $$$

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:12 am

Then just take them out and see if it quits.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 11:27 am

Can anyone give me a run through about how they come out. Ive been thinking about painting the front suspension like I did the rear, so that would work out great. :twisted:

I know how to get down to actually taking the cv out of the diff. Do I need to take the boots off? Or can I just pull it out of the diff? Ive read something about clips? Whats that about? Do I need to replace the clips once I get them out? I guess it would be ok to just drain the diff and plug the holes once I get the cv's out?

I may just take the boots off and buy me some new bands and repack them all.. Im sure the factory greased them as good as they did those ball joints. :roll:

Ive taken the boots off some of the ball joints and there was hardly anything in it.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 12:49 pm

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Idk whats causing it and I cannot figure it out. It usually only does it when I turn left at or close to full lock. No vibrations.

Ive jacked it up by the lower control arms and turned the steering wheel to lock and everything is fine. I can spin the wheel all day and its as smooth as it can be. No slack in the cv joints what so ever.

I only have the rustys lift with 2 conduit nuts so my lift isnt near as high as a liberty with the franken lift would be. Ive confirmed its at least 1" lower.

Any ideas? I need to get this figured out.

27k miles.

Hey Blake....You might want to double check the anti-rattle clips on your brake pads.I've had some instances where you'll get what we call pad kick,and the pads will move just enough to cause a clicking like a bad CV joint.Just a thought :idea:

Ron

JNJ-Z · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 1:57 pm

HI BLAKE,
I AGREE WITH LIL RED LIBBY. BUT ALSO LOOK FOR SMALL STONES THAT SOMETIMES GET STUCK BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE PADS! I HAVE SEEN THIS WHEN PEOPLE HAVE GONE THREW ALOT OF WATER AND MUD!

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 10:12 pm

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Can anyone give me a run through about how they come out. Ive been thinking about painting the front suspension like I did the rear, so that would work out great. :twisted:

I know how to get down to actually taking the cv out of the diff. Do I need to take the boots off? Or can I just pull it out of the diff? Ive read something about clips? Whats that about? Do I need to replace the clips once I get them out? I guess it would be ok to just drain the diff and plug the holes once I get the cv's out?

I may just take the boots off and buy me some new bands and repack them all.. Im sure the factory greased them as good as they did those ball joints. :roll:

Ive take the boots off some of the ball joints and there was hardly anything in it.

I just pulled mine. Just yank while holding the inner part of the half shaft, they come right out. SM shows a using a prybar. I'd replace all the clips while your at. For less than $5, I think it's worth it. I just went through a repair that I'm convinced was from not replacing a clip when I put in my moogs. I was thinking of repacking mine when I replaced the clip this time but never did. Ended up replacing a real needle bearing with a plastic one and a new seal instead.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2007 11:57 pm

Thanks a bunch for the replies everyone. Ill check the pads tomorrow lilred.

Do the bearings need to be replaced after you remove the cv dave? I would rather leave the real bearing in there and not replace it with plastic if I can. Why would they want you to replace it with a plastic one anyway? I remember Al saying he had alot of trouble with those wearing out.

Im just not sure its the cv joints. I jacked it up from the front skid plate letting the wheels droop and turned the wheels putting them at the most extreme angles I could and they didnt make a noise. I then sat it down with the wheels still turned and jacked it up from the lower control arms so that it would sit almost like it would when driving and they were both smooth as can be.

Ill take the wheels off tomorrow and check everything.

Clicking when turning.

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