The New Fuel Filter, Filter Head, Lift Pump Thread

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 12:22 pm

done, with pic, #10197756

crdmike · **Joined:** Tue May 16, 2006 7:25 pm **Posts:** 138

Mine looked something like that about 10 months ago. I took it into the dealer and this was my DCX answer:

Special order part it usually takes 10 days to get; it's OK to drive like that until it comes in.

Keep in mind that you're dealer will put the same junk back on. Once you get her back, best bet is to unplug the heater until you invest for the fix.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 5:40 pm

Be sure to file a report inclosing your picture let the feds know if you haven't already :lol:

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 5:53 pm

crdmike wrote:

Mine looked something like that about 10 months ago. I took it into the dealer and this was my DCX answer:

Special order part it usually takes 10 days to get; it's OK to drive like that until it comes in.

Keep in mind that you're dealer will put the same junk back on. Once you get her back, best bet is to unplug the heater until you invest for the fix.

I think if many here would put dielectric grease on the termials and plug on the heater connectors there will be less problems. I did mine when this problem first turned up, now 32,000 miles and still going strong. As far as the air in the fuel, that is in the fuel anyway and separates in pockets at the high point under vacuum. I'm working on a fix for that, we must remember we can't fight the nature of the beast, just feed it.

fatweasel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 8:00 pm

No biggie,

$150 bucks and 20 minutes later you will be on your way. I did mine this weekend, the part came in the day after I ordered it.

tigafila · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 8:42 pm

I took the head off, cleaned all of the fuel out of the plug with alcohol and blew out with shop air, mixed up some plastic epoxy and put it in the very bottom of the socket with a toothpick. It stopped the leak at that point but continued to leak other places on the head till I went with the Racor. I don't think silicone is compatible with diesel but I could be wrong. Tigafila

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 8:54 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

Be sure to file a report inclosing your picture let the feds know if you haven't already :lol:

done, with pic, #10197756

""I think if many here would put dielectric grease on the termials and plug on the heater connectors there will be less problems. I did mine when this problem first turned up, now 32,000 miles and still going strong. As far as the air in the fuel, that is in the fuel anyway and separates in pockets at the high point under vacuum. I'm working on a fix for that, we must remember we can't fight the nature of the beast, just feed it.""

I can see how dielectric grease would help reduce corrosion or rust that might degrade electrical connection pins to the point the might break off and see something like the picture after maybe 5 years or tons of salt-water exposuse. This is not what occured in this case.

I can not see how dielectric grease (which I use frequently elsewhere) would reduce over-heating of the element and burn-out which occurs inside the filter-head in air accumulating at the top of the filter. What you see is not just a pin, this is a piece of the element that came out all the way from the inside the filter-head...hence the sucking air sound from the hole. The reason it so freely came out is that during the over-heating and burning-out phase, it must have burned back the surrounding plastic allowing it (and air, and fuel) to freely travel.

Where can I get a rocket launcher? eBay?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:33 pm

BBB wrote:

Is there simple a fuse/connector one could pull out to just imobilize the filter fuel heater alone (for summer months) or would that fuse/connector also power the sensor and others and cause a CEL? If the heater leads could be isolated, a simple bi-metal inline thermostat could be installed to let the heater be powered on below a specific user adjustable tempurature set point for winter months. Is the computer is looking for the heater resistance 100% of the time? If so what is the resistance so a resistor could be wired series-parrallel with the new themostat?

In the fuse box I pulled the 20A fuse labled "fuel heater." I just did it
today so we will see what happens.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:13 pm

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

Be sure to file a report inclosing your picture let the feds know if you haven't already :lol:

done, with pic, #10197756

""I think if many here would put dielectric grease on the termials and plug on the heater connectors there will be less problems. I did mine when this problem first turned up, now 32,000 miles and still going strong. As far as the air in the fuel, that is in the fuel anyway and separates in pockets at the high point under vacuum. I'm working on a fix for that, we must remember we can't fight the nature of the beast, just feed it.""

I can see how dielectric grease would help reduce corrosion or rust that might degrade electrical connection pins to the point the might break off and see something like the picture after maybe 5 years or tons of salt-water exposuse. This is not what occured in this case.

I can not see how dielectric grease (which I use frequently elsewhere) would reduce over-heating of the element and burn-out which occurs inside the filter-head in air accumulating at the top of the filter. What you see is not just a pin, this is a piece of the element that came out all the way from the inside the filter-head...hence the sucking air sound from the hole. The reason it so freely came out is that during the over-heating and burning-out phase, it must have burned back the surrounding plastic allowing it (and air, and fuel) to freely travel.

Where can I get a rocket launcher? eBay?

The termials is very small for the amount of amp being drawed for the heater. Any looseness or drit will cause heat at the plug and melting of plactic through the heater puck. I remember Ford blower motor switches burning up with out exposer to the elements for it under the dash. Usally cause by loose termial till connector frys with the switch. Dielectric solved that problem so I don't see why it wouldn't help with this problem. It is a cheap fix and a lot better than waiting until it frys.

Stan Wright · **Posted:** Sun Jul 29, 2007 11:56 pm

Stan Wright wrote:

Tigafila - Where did you get your Racor unit?

I thought I'd post this info for reference. I just ordered a Racor 245 filter assembly (P/N 245R122) from www.blinefilter.com/store for $143. According to the part number this should include the heater element. The replacement filters (R25S) are $20.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:25 am

I may have an intermediate solution, for those that aren't comfortable ditching the stock filter assembly for whatever reason, and haven't yet had problems with a melted fuel heater or other leaks developing on the stock filter head.

Stanadyne builds their filters on a modular basis, and offer a side load fuel heater, 12V 150 watt, built in thermostat (45 F - 85 F), that threads into one of the side ports on their standard filter heads. This can be 1/4" NPT, 3/8" NPT, SAE straight thread, metric o-ring, etc.

In other words, you can order one of these fuel heaters from a Stanadyne dealer without having to buy an entire fuel filter assembly.

You could construct a separate housing for one of these Stanadyne heaters out of the appropriate size pipe fittings and hose connectors, and install it in the fuel line either before or after the filter. For the electrical connection, you would need to change the connector on the fuel heater harness to match that on the Stanadyne heater.

You could then leave the fuel heater in the filter head disconnected, or plug it up with your favorite epoxy of choice! :twisted:

For those that haven't had their stock fuel filter assembly damaged (yet) by the installed fuel heater, to where it is still sound and doesn't have any air/fuel leaks, or like me who have been running with the fuel heater disconnected to prevent any damage, this could be a way to restore fuel heat prior to the onset of winter without risking damage to the fuel filter assembly, and a cheaper/easier alternative than buying an entire Racor/Stanadyne fuel filter setup and trying to come up with a solution for the fuel temp sensor.

Go to www.stanadyne.com and check out their Fuel Manager brochures for further info.

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:26 pm

Retmil,

Did insulating the filter head and filter canister help? What did you use for insulation?

I've got the same symptoms, starts quickly and lots of power when cold, but if I shut it down and restart, it takes too long to start and takes a while to get any power out of it. Its gutless until it runs for a couple of miles. The 'starting cycle taking longer when hot' was not an issue before I switched to the CAT filter, but don't recall if the CRD was gutless when started hot with the stock filter.

Those that have done the Racor swap, any similiar symptoms?

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Thu Aug 02, 2007 1:57 pm

I am running stock and I can't say that I am having the problem despite recent weather consistantly in the high 90's and above.

tigafila · **Posted:** Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:06 pm

1800 miles and not one hiccup. Tigafila

bbertram · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2005 4:17 pm **Posts:** 144

Not one stall in the cool weather, just stalls in the super hot weather and after driving. I think heat soaking is the problem on hot days after driving. May wrap my fuel filter on the next change with heat reflective tape.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:11 pm

I wonder if the gasser KJ in tank lift pump would fit in our CRD?

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:30 pm

Well, I'm finally going to make the switch. However, based on what I've seen over on the TDI forum, I'm going to give a Stanadyne FM100 a try.

Ordered this morning from Reliable Industries.

33641 - FM100 filter head with four 3/8" NPT ports (2 inlet, 2 outlet) and 4.3" long 30 micron FF/WS element installed, no hand primer pump (since I have an electric lift pump) - $35.50

29899 - See-Thru plastic drain bowl - $29.28

35160 - 12V 100 watt side load heater 3/8" NPT to match ports, thermostat controlled 45 F on/85 F off, comes with matching electrical connector and harness - $42.95

31869 - Two 30 micron 6" long FF/WS filter elements, $14.19 each - I ordered 30 micron to use this as a primary filter and water separator, as I will still have the 1R0750 2 micron CAT filter installed downstream as a final filter.

The hand primer pump can be ordered separately as an option, but from reading one gent's experience over on tdiclub running a Stanadyne filter with a restriction gauge installed, the hand primer noticeably increases flow restriction thru the filter. Since I have an electric lift pump installed and can easily switch it's power supply fuse tap to an ACC fuse port for repriming the filters, I opted not to get the hand primer.

If using the Stanadyne as the only filter, they also have 6" long 5 micron and 2 micron filter elements, around $15 each. 31877 - 6" long 5 micron element, 35612 - 6" long 2 micron element.

And the reason I finally decided to make the switch -

Ordered from www.omega.com - TH-44004-1/4NPT-80, Thermistor, 2252 ohms at 25 C, 1/4" NPT pipe thread, 80" wire attached, $61. The new fuel temp sensor.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:58 pm

How did you decide on that particular thermistor? I'm betting you've done you're homework - and I want to copy the answers to the test. :wink:

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:52 am

[quote="retmil46"]The hand primer pump can be ordered separately as an option, but from reading one gent's experience over on tdiclub running a Stanadyne filter with a restriction gauge installed, the hand primer noticeably increases flow restriction thru the filter. Since I have an electric lift pump installed and can easily switch it's power supply fuse tap to an ACC fuse port for repriming the filters, I opted not to get the hand primer.
quote]

retmil: Hmm, but what if your lift pump fails while driving in the woods? Then you are back in the same boat with the potential to pull in air, get a bubble, then a stall. A hand primer would be handy then. Also, your lift-pump could be calibrated (lord knows how) to make up for the restriction from the hand primer.

The only reason I am even considering replacing the OEM head with another OEM is the primer pump. Its saved me twice now.

Jeger · **Posted:** Sat Aug 04, 2007 9:01 am

He could always suck the air out by mouth :lol:

The New Fuel Filter, Filter Head, Lift Pump Thread

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