I had a 25K service plan that is now past so I was getting ready to do my first change and install my Fumoto. I don't have an 8mm socket but I do have metric hex wrenchs so I dug out the 8mm and prepared to change. Of course I couldn't get enough leverage on the 8mm so I got something over the end to add some leverage. Still nothing and an uncomfortable amount of flex.

So, will an 8mm socket and a ratchet make a difference or has the dealer just rammed it in too hard? It would be cheaper to have them change the oil when I go in for the blower recall Tuesday then to find out that they had screwed up the plug on an earlier change and find that I am now the one that gets blamed and has to buy a new oil pan for $800. I am pretty sure I can get them to use my oil and filters and to insrall my Fumoto.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

if in doubt ... have them do it .. I think my dealer charges 14$ for a change if you bring in your own oil and filter ... course I don't cause I have the fumoto too.

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2005 CRD Limited
added Mopar plates, snow, mud
Detours backbone (w/lp8500)
Skink super sliders

Sounds like they either stripped the pan or just cranked it down. No one has changed the oil on my CRD except for me and I have no issues. When I changed the oil on my buddies CRD, which the dealership had changed the oil on it went in tight...so I figured they FUBARed the threads...

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

What I seen with the oil drain thread being tight to screw in and out is if you or the Dealer mistakenly leave the copper seal (washer) off the drain bolt and screw it back in, The bolt goes in just far enought to crush the first thread resulting in a tight thread. If that happens just get a tap with lots of Grease in the flutes and re tap the hole to re-align the first thread. You shouldn'd have to go all the way into the pan, just far enough to correct the first thread.

Use Lots of grease to collect any metal chips to prevent them from getting into the oil pan.

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Curtis
Lost # 3914
2006 CRD Limited
Sp Diesel Module
Samco Boost Hoses
K&N Performance Air Filter
Straight Pipe (No muffler)
SEGR
Mopar Skids
Cummins In Tank Lift Pump
245/70R 16 Wild Country AT's

That is exactly what I did the last change. Stupid me. I took the plug back out with new oil in. Held my finger over the hole while trying to get the washer back on the plug with the other hand. Got the now washered plug started, all while only loosing about 1 cup of oil. This......while the oil was at operating temp. Why oh why didn't I let it cool off first??!!! Anyway, a little hard to screw in but it torqued up just fine.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

cause you were in a hurry like I am most of the time. I would definately take it back to them and question why it was so tight and mention they most likely forgot the washer and expect them to resolve this issue.

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2005 CRD Limited
added Mopar plates, snow, mud
Detours backbone (w/lp8500)
Skink super sliders

When I changed my oil the first time last month (I got my CRD used in
June), I used an allen wrech. When the drain plug initially broke loose
it turned freely but then it started to get tight the more I backed it out.
The plug came out clean without any stripped threads but it did make me
wonder (it went back in the same way). I don't recall if there was any
washer on the plug or not.

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U.S. Army Retired