Help Resistor Block in HVAC failed

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Mon May 08, 2006 8:22 am

I searched and found this thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3251 but I'd like to know if anyone has any other pointers. I did not registar at the site linked that has pictures of the install.

My failure: HVAC fan only works on setting #4. All other fan speeds are non-functional

My Jeep is very stock. Has just over 49,000 miles and has worked flawless for the past 4 years of ownership.

I understand that the block is behind the glove box, but how do I remove the G/Box? I'd like to stop at the dealership on the way home from work today and try to get this fixed.

Thanks guys

wilfredcruz · **Posted:** Mon May 08, 2006 9:04 am

do it yourself.
no tools needed to remove glove box, just open it pres tabs on sides, then slide it out.

then use a screwdriver to remove the old resistor, put new one in.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Mon May 08, 2006 9:26 am

It's really that easy? I'm shocked that Chrysler would actually make something so simple to replace

valvestem · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 222

sleeve84028 wrote:

It's really that easy? I'm shocked that Chrysler would actually make something so simple to replace

Here you go.

streetKJ · **Posted:** Mon May 08, 2006 2:03 pm

valvestem wrote:

sleeve84028 wrote:

It's really that easy? I'm shocked that Chrysler would actually make something so simple to replace

Here you go.

I have the same problem so I thought I'd give it a try, but after struggling with a screwdriver and that harness, I think I need some more help.

So I tried putting the screwdriver in the groove where the yellow arrow points, prying up and prying down while trying to pull the harness out. No luck.

I tried unhooking the orange tab with the tip of the screwdriver, but it doesnt seem like its even really hooked on the black tab behind it.

I tried prying the screwdriver on the blue tabs on the sides of the harness, no luck there either.

Do I need two screwdrivers for this?

Can anyone elaborate further, because as simple as that tab looks, I cant seem to figure out how to release it. Is the orange tab the fuse itself? or do we have to remove the harness to access something behind it?

valvestem · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 222

(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Open the glove box door to gain access to the
blower motor resistor.
(3) Pull out the lock on the blower motor resistor
wire harness connector to unlock the connector latch.
(4) Depress the latch on the blower motor resistor
wire harness connector and unplug the connector
from the resistor.
(5) Remove the two screws that secure the resistor
to the HVAC housing.
(6) Remove the resistor from the HVAC housing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the new resistor in the HVAC housing.
(2) Install the two screws that secure the resistor
to the HVAC housing and tighten to 2.2 N·m (20 in.
lbs.).
(3) Plug in the blower motor harness connector.
(4) Push in the lock on the blower motor resistor
harness connector.
(5) Close the glove box door.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Tue May 09, 2006 8:02 am

Thanks for all the help guys! The hardest part was finding an 8mm box wrench in the tool box to get the lower hex head screw loose with. I am back up and blowing hot air again...

AdamIsAdam · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:09 am

My #1 setting stopped blowing, or so I thought. Rarely use 1 so I didn't notice (not sure anyway).

Yesterday, I noticed #2 speed isn't blowing.

Remembered reading about this some time ago and came back this morning to search.

I LOVE THIS FORUM!

Anyone have a part number or will it be easy to the parts dept to just tell them I need a new blower motor resistor?

AdamIsAdam · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:06 am

Found this info and thought I'd add it here:

P/N: 05139719AA

Pic:

Maximum Carnage · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:46 pm

I think the part is under $15 from the dealership I mean stealership.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:51 pm

It's about 17 or 18 smackers but the guy at the parts counter will know what you are talking about when you say HVAC resistor block.

SoDakJeep · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:55 pm

just happend to me as well only 4 works....haha o well off to the stealership.....

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:17 pm

And just a reminder for anyone changing one of these.....go out to the engine bay and make sure your drain for the HVAC box is open and draining good,cause water is the resistors worst enemy.It's not just on the libby's,it's all of them that don't have cabin air filters to keep leaves and debris from clogging the drain.And another thing worth mentioning,blowing into the drain with compressed air will only prolong the problem as it will eventually return to the drain to clog it again.Instead,use a small pick tool or a piece of coathanger with a small bend on the end to fish the dirt out instead.Carefull not to probe more than an inch or two,you would'nt want to poke a hole in your evaperator or heater core.

Ron

snowsport · **Joined:** Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:52 pm **Posts:** 1211

Ron, do you have a photo of the drain you're refering to?

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Tue Aug 14, 2007 10:45 pm

snowsport wrote:

Ron, do you have a photo of the drain you're refering to?

Not handy,but I can print one up from "Alldata" at work tommorow and post it at lunch time or when I get home after 5:00 Ohio time.Someone will probably beat me to it. :wink:

Ron

AdamIsAdam · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:59 am

VERY INTERESTING! I was off roading two weeks ago and was sitting still on a steep uphill incline with the Jeep running and AC on. When I finally go to flat land, water was POURING out of the drain hose (which is a small black tube with a 90 degree bend mounted just in front of the passenger's feet). So much came out that I thought I punctured a radiator hose at first, before I could touch/smell the water.

So maybe all that water was touching the resistor for a while and caused it to fail? Well, at least I know it's draining properly!

Oh, by the way, the new one is in and working fine. I LOVE THIS BOARD!

(it was $16)

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:22 am

That is great to hear.

Yeah, the bad thing about gravity drain systems is that when you elevate the nose of the Jeep, the drain tube no longer sits at the lowest point on the HVAC system. This allows water to build at the bottom of the case. I don't know if it could have come in contact with the resistor block itself, but it's possible.

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:07 pm

Well I tried to find a pic of the drain tube at work,but "Alldata" really did'nt show anything.I think Adam described it's whereabouts pretty good though.Not sure if water levels could get high enough to reach it,but the blower alone has the air in that case really blowing around,and creating a constant mist.

Ron

snowsport · **Joined:** Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:52 pm **Posts:** 1211

Okay, thanks, I'll take a look and see if I can spot it. Something else, you know the plastic grille just below the window by the hood...that seems to be glued on! The passenger's side let go and lifted and there's just a bead of old dry glue under there, no clips or rivets or anything that I can see. The foam rubber block below the corner of the window nearly fell out.Is there any reason I might want to remove that at a later date, or should I just go ahead and ProBond it back down?

LiLredLibby · **Posted:** Wed Aug 15, 2007 5:15 pm

snowsport wrote:

Okay, thanks, I'll take a look and see if I can spot it. Something else, you know the plastic grille just below the window by the hood...that seems to be glued on! The passenger's side let go and lifted and there's just a bead of old dry glue under there, no clips or rivets or anything that I can see. The foam rubber block below the corner of the window nearly fell out.Is there any reason I might want to remove that at a later date, or should I just go ahead and ProBond it back down?

You could probably use some RTV or seamsealer,or something you could cut with a knife later if you needed to.

Ron

Help Resistor Block in HVAC failed

Who is online