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 Post subject: The Laundry List
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:31 pm 
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Location: Ellicott City, MD
So what's the list of things that may need to be addressed to make this vehicle right? Here's what I'm aware of:

1) Torque Converter
2) EGR and or EGR FCV
3) Fuel filter head

What else do you got? It seems I keep reading more and more stuff... The latest of which is about lift pumps and whether they are necessary or not...

Will it ever stop?


Last edited by T^2 on Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:40 pm 
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Lift pumps are a work around for number 3 :!:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:41 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Lift pumps are a work around for number 3 :!:


Unless #3 is leaking! :wink: I really think we will see a recall on this one but one might still entertain a lift pump since the recall would likely only solve the leak not the possible accumlation of air.

I don't think the EGR presents much problem if you are in the ORM, or SEGR mode which basically disables it. It seems like a few with the FCV issues solve it if stuck by pushing it back open then cleaning it. I don't recall but I think the SEGR keeps the FCV open too.

If your TC is toast then you can get the dealer to fix it under warranty if still covered or if paying yourself go to the better Sun Coast TC.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


Last edited by Cowcatcher on Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:45 pm 
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Some might argue that #4 would be the necessity for an oil separator (such as a Provent) in the CCV line.

I've been running without one. I now have ~42k miles. Perhaps some time in the near future I'll be able to shed some light on this.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:45 pm 
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Hey - welcome to the wild and wonderful world of Customer R&D - we make'em better so they'll build'em better - right?

Add upgraded lower balljoints to your list - apparently Jeep didn't consider the heavier weight of the Diesel engine when they spec'ed the balljoints - if you're planning on keeping it forever, the greasable units are recommended - if not, the same items are available 'permanently lubricated' without the zerks

Major outlay is the transmission upgrade - lift pump is simple and inexpensive - ORM is simple and inexpensive - imo, when the (EGR) warranty period is over, the rest is just normal wear and tear

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:52 pm 
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My list:

Done:
Skid plates ("Trail Rated" vehicle shipping with no skids to protect the oil filter/transmission?)
Upgraded tires (stockers are paper thin and suitable dry pavement)

In process:
V6 air box conversion (I live in the rainy NW and the stock box sucks in too much water)
SEGR (get rid of that darn light)

Long term:
Suncoast transmission upgrade
Engine tuning to overcome lost f37 power (either Inmotion or Edge chip)
Racor fuel filter head and filter (the lift pump seems to be treating the symptoms rather than the disease, imo)

Considering:
Provent or similar mod to keep oil out of the turbo

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:53 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Lift pumps are a work around for number 3 :!:


Two issues of concern that I've noted about the fuel filter head:

1) Air getting into system causing shudder issue
2) Leaking fuel from heater plug

I might see how a lift pump might address #1, but I don't see what it does for #2.

What's the certainty as to the necessity for a lift pump?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:56 pm 
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T^2 wrote:
Joe Romas wrote:
Lift pumps are a work around for number 3 :!:


Two issues of concern that I've noted about the fuel filter head:

1) Air getting into system causing shudder issue
2) Leaking fuel from heater plug

I might see how a lift pump might address #1, but I don't see what it does for #2.

What's the certainty as to the necessity for a lift pump?


The lift pump helps with number 2 because it keeps the fuel head and filter full and less likely that the heater plug will overheat.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:50 pm 
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First things to look at for longevity and safety:


ORM/SEGR
...keeps down abrasive soot in the top end and perks it up a bit

EHM or Provent...keeps dirty oily vapors from intake tract

Unplug Heater at Fuel Filter Head
(possible fire hazzard)...other issues with this Fuel Filter Head are being worked onm slowly...ie. Racor replacement, CAT Filter Mod, ect.

Air Box Mod from 2002 or so...top entry air flow keeps water out of the system better

Suncoast TC/Pump and possible shift kit while you are at it

Fumoto Oil Valve...so you don't strip the stock pan as many have

*****************************************

Things you "want" to do...

Upgrade Skids for offroad and road debris...at least a tranny skid to protect oil filter and tranny pan

LIFT to make it a better JEEP

TIRES
to make the lift worthwhile

Aftermarket Exhaust to open up the flow

InMotion Tuning to bring the performance of the CRD...

Husky Liners to protect the carpet from Mud, Snow, Water, Sode, the list goes on and on

Skids...the ones you didn't do in the aboce including StepSliders

********************************************

Things you shouldn't think about...it will hurt your head...

Rock Lizzard Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier and possible Jerry Can holder

ARB Front Bumper (or other maker) to hold more mods

Winch
for those OffRoad Moments (Synthetic rope and Aluminum Hause to save weight and up safety factor)

POD and GUAGES to give you more information on EGT/TURBO BOOST and or Transmission Temps

MOAB Wheels just look great on any KJ

ROCK LIZZARD Roof Rails so you can put anything up there

LIGHTS :idea: :idea: :idea:

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:55 pm 
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THAT should be a sticky, chief, with really bold graphics......................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:05 pm 
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Is there a complete Racor replacement for the filter head? IOW's does it have both the heater and WIF sensor? IOW's, IOW's, a quick easy plug and play solution?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:26 pm 
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Checkout the 400R series at Racor, with priming pump and WIF and fuel heater - 'course, do the lift pump mod and you won't need the priming bulb version - run the lift pump to prime the filter.

Only problem - the fuel heater is t-stat controlled but has no output for ECM monitoring - the oem heater 'puck' could be opened and the temp probe removed and installed in the Racor, to the same end - appeasing the ECM

You couldn't just separate the puck and leave it lay somewhere in the area, because it would monitor underhood temps, not the cooler flowing fuel temps - ECM would throw a hissy and CEL ya into submission

So, no - not quick'n'easy plug'n'play, but certainly no hill fer a stepper.

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:37 pm 
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The temp probe in the factory puck is epoxied in place in a blind plastic well. I won't say it is impossible to remove, but I will say it is impractical. Retmil46 and/or Ranger1 have found a pipe thread mount thermistor with a very similar curve to the factory unit.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:39 pm 
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So that's the issue. The ECM requires feedback from the stock filter head/heater... The Racor doesn't provide this feedback I take...

So in essence, there isn't a simple plug and play replacement...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:48 pm 
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I noticed that - again, I get little hands-on with my son's Jeep, so if someone will post a clear 4-view top-bottom-side-front view pic of the removed puck, it may be possible to derive a suitable almost-plug-n-play option for that

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:09 pm 
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If you'll check this pic, it's the Racor 200s series filter, and that's oem on the Euro versions

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=24780

and here's the Racor link =

http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCatalo ... SEPARATORS

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:14 pm 
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The other option is to do what I (and most, I suspect) have done to their jeep: nothing. Other than changing out the oem tires and adding a tranny skid plate, I have made no mods. I have neither taken out the egr, had a new torque converter put in, pulled the fuel heater, added a gas version air box, put in a separate lift pump, and I STILL use the 0w-40 Mobil 1 oil that the dealer puts in (I get free changes) and use no fuel additives. I had blackstone look at the oil and it showed no problems.

And guess what-my Jeep runs perfectly fine. It starts every time (in all weather) gets good to great (for a SUV) mpg, is great in the snow, fine on dirt trails, and has never left me stranded. It IS NOT a perfect car (what is?) but I don't obsess about it, nor do I believe you need to be a mechanical engineer, or a true gear head to succesfully own one. Just keep up with the fluid changes and do the recalls.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:28 pm 
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vtdog wrote:
The other option is to do what I (and most, I suspect) have done to their jeep: nothing. Other than changing out the oem tires and adding a tranny skid plate, I have made no mods. I have neither taken out the egr, had a new torque converter put in, pulled the fuel heater, added a gas version air box, put in a separate lift pump, and I STILL use the 0w-40 Mobil 1 oil that the dealer puts in (I get free changes) and use no fuel additives. I had blackstone look at the oil and it showed no problems.

And guess what-my Jeep runs perfectly fine. It starts every time (in all weather) gets good to great (for a SUV) mpg, is great in the snow, fine on dirt trails, and has never left me stranded. It IS NOT a perfect car (what is?) but I don't obsess about it, nor do I believe you need to be a mechanical engineer, or a true gear head to succesfully own one. Just keep up with the fluid changes and do the recalls.


How many times have you had to have the EGR or EGR FCV replaced?

How often have you driven the vehicle with dangerously bad turbo lag due to imminent EGR failure?

How many times have you had the fuel filter head start spewing fuel out the heater plug connector, leaving you stranded in the middle of the road and nearly causing a fire?

I would love to be able to just put fuel in it, drive it, and occasionally do the routine preventive maintenance, checks, and services. However, I’ve not had much choice in the matter, because the Laundry List has foisted itself upon me.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:32 pm 
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And that's good input, as well VT - we seldom get the other side of the story, about the one that runs and runs till the wheels fall off. (would that be classified as casual owner-maintenance?)

For me, these forums are paths to upgrades and performance, but serve to most as places for help and assistance, so we always see the downside - fortunately the downside helps in the improvement processes, so the forums work well for everyone

BTW, VT - if you have not, pop the hood and take a look at the fuel heater plug - Autumn temps are dropping, and that's when the heater could become dangerous - a quick look now might save your Jeep - and your life.......................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:48 pm 
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I somewhat agree with VT. We do have some intense gearhead CRD owners. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I put on the Fumoto because there have been too many reports here of stripped oil pans. I bought the CAT an it is still in the box given issues that cropped up with quite a number who made the change.

I have ORM'd and that is worthwhile and easy and have the SEGR coming that may stay in the box with the CAT for a while (perhaps through warranty). I ORM'd to save me from EGR failure.

I have done the air box converstion simply because everytime I checked my air filter it looked like it had been installed for 20K miles. I also sucked 1 QT of oil after wet weather when new in 1K miles, the only oil my CRD has ever used and that was in the first 5K.

Mostly I have just kept up with all the TSB's and recalls (except the F37), and kept it serviced. Oh yes, and put real tires on it from my he man roads. I'm happy.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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