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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:14 pm 
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Hmm, like already said we can't judge yet but I think it's great they came out with the kit! I don't know the cost of the setup but you can get a 10-12" GM Fullsize truck lift w/ coilovers for $3,000 flat, just comparing to what I've come from.

http://cognitomotorsports.com/store/page20.html


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:27 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
ahh, I see now, they dont have all the parts listed yet. Idk where that other thread about this went, but I was confused since they didnt address all problems like Al did. :)


look up! i linked to it a couple of posts up.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:18 pm 
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:21 pm 
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KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:23 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


The parts list include a 2" cradle drop and a transfer case drop. Will the transfer case drop help with the drive shaft?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:29 pm 
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Sport wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


The parts list include a 2" cradle drop and a transfer case drop. Will the transfer case drop help with the drive shaft?
It will help with the u-joint angles but when flexing the rear it may(most likely) pullout of the t-case(stupid slip yokes) and then you'll have a bad day.Most lifts above 4" requires a new driveshaft(SFA vehicles need 2),also if this kit centers the rear axle It really will need a new rear shaft,just remember there is only so much of the splines contacting each other in the slip yoke and less when you lift it and move the axle back to center,this = driveshaft falling out or breaking from the lack of spline-to-spline contact under high torque applications.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:34 pm 
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whats an SYE? (im new... :oops: )

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:35 pm 
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wait wait! let me guess.... Slip Yoke....Extension?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:41 pm 
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jerbacher wrote:
whats an SYE? (im new... :oops: )
Slip Yoke Eliminator,it basically replaces the rear output shaft in the t-case and a new rear shaft housing,most make the t-case shorter thus allowing to run a longer drive shaft for better u-joint angles.Then a Yoke(like the yoke on the rear diff) is mounted and a new drive shaft will not have the slip yoke on it anymore.This is a good time to have a CV joint installed on the new shaft(or called double cardon joint,basically 2 u-joints right after each other,thus reducing stress on the u-joints even further),the drive shaft will have a slip yoke biult into it(much stronger and more travel) thus allowing you to only having to replace one half of the shaft if it get damaged instead of a whole new one. Make any sense now?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:47 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
jerbacher wrote:
whats an SYE? (im new... :oops: )
Slip Yoke Eliminator,it basically replaces the rear output shaft in the t-case and a new rear shaft housing,most make the t-case shorter thus allowing to run a longer drive shaft for better u-joint angles.Then a Yoke(like the yoke on the rear diff) is mounted and a new drive shaft will not have the slip yoke on it anymore.This is a good time to have a CV joint installed on the new shaft(or called double cardon joint,basically 2 u-joints right after each other,thus reducing stress on the u-joints even further),the drive shaft will have a slip yoke biult into it(much stronger and more travel) thus allowing you to only having to replace one half of the shaft if it get damaged instead of a whole new one. Make any sense now?


totally. you know everything there is to know about this stuff dont you! :shock: :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:53 pm 
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jerbacher wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
jerbacher wrote:
whats an SYE? (im new... :oops: )
Slip Yoke Eliminator,it basically replaces the rear output shaft in the t-case and a new rear shaft housing,most make the t-case shorter thus allowing to run a longer drive shaft for better u-joint angles.Then a Yoke(like the yoke on the rear diff) is mounted and a new drive shaft will not have the slip yoke on it anymore.This is a good time to have a CV joint installed on the new shaft(or called double cardon joint,basically 2 u-joints right after each other,thus reducing stress on the u-joints even further),the drive shaft will have a slip yoke biult into it(much stronger and more travel) thus allowing you to only having to replace one half of the shaft if it get damaged instead of a whole new one. Make any sense now?


totally. you know everything there is to know about this stuff dont you! :shock: :D
Not yet,still learning,then again new stuff comes out so fast now you can never know it all.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:23 pm 
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation! :D

Here is a list Marlin E-mailed of what comes with the kit:

§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1



Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use


Last edited by Guest on Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:25 pm 
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KJpilot wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation! :D


a six pack of beer and a drive to toledo cant cost that much right? :lol: (hopefully tom will read this)

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:31 pm 
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jerbacher wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation! :D


a six pack of beer and a drive to toledo cant cost that much right? :lol: (hopefully tom will read this)


I am ready for anything :wink: WAIT a minute what did I just agree to, oh well if it means laying under a Jeep for a few hours, I am in there, I will be waiting in the garage for ya Jon!

Tom 8)

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:33 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
jerbacher wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation! :D


a six pack of beer and a drive to toledo cant cost that much right? :lol: (hopefully tom will read this)


I am ready for anything :wink: WAIT a minute what did I just agree to, oh well if it means laying under a Jeep for a few hours, I am in there, I will be waiting in the garage for ya Jon!


Tom 8)


HA! no i dont have that kind of money laying around... but i did have money to buy some quick discos. so.... ya know...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:38 pm 
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KJpilot wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:

Here is a list Marlin E-mailed of what comes with the kit:

§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1



Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use




WOW! A "removal of the wheel wells" comes with the kit?

:lol:


Seriously though.....Wow! New diff gears comes with the kit? 4:10,1 or 4:56,1?

So who has info/experience with 4:56,1 gears?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:43 pm 
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What's this:

Image

Looks a little fragile.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:43 pm 
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In our dreams we can have 4.56 gears, but only in our dreams :(
But then if you went 6 inches of lift 4.56s would not be low enough 4.88s or so maybe even 5.13s would be better depending on the tire size, but we all know we want the biggest , right :wink:

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:51 pm 
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KJpilot wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
KJpilot wrote:
I'm surprised that it is that inexpensive. It is a complete kit after all. Yeah, maybe somethong can be done with the CV joints, but for crying out loud, EVERYTING else is included & is all bolt-in! That is simply outstanding at $3,600!

I was certain it was going to be more like $5,000.
Don't forget install($$$$) and I'm sure the stock drive shaft will not work(or not live long with those angles and probally will be to short) so a SYE and new rear driveshaft will be in order(more$$$$$).


I capitalized EVERYTHING for a reason! That price includes driveshafts! new 4.10 gears and oodles of other things! Yeah you got to put it in... but most kits do require installation! :D

Here is a list Marlin E-mailed of what comes with the kit:

§ Front strut kit

§ Al’s A-arms New Gen 4

§ 2” sub frame for under K frame

§ Steering knuckle extension

§ Transfer case cross member shim plates

§ Y link for on top or rear axel

§ Long control arms on rear axel w/ factory sway bar

§ Longer drive shaft

§ Rear shocks and coil springs

§ Steering rod extension

§ Longer brake hoses

§ Removing inner front wheel wells if using 33” tires

§ Re-gearing axels 4:10,1 or 4:56,1



Options

§ Factory rubber bushings or Johnny Joints

§ Front strut adapters to use with other lift kits

§ Adapter plates to use factory Y link

§ Differential Locker for off road use
Well then that's a bargin if it comes with a new rear driveshaft(though no SYE and CV shaft :cry: ) and gears.Though you can only get 4.10's.Labor isn't going to be cheap with the gear install.

Quote:
tommudd

In our dreams we can have 4.56 gears, but only in our dreams
But then if you went 6 inches of lift 4.56s would not be low enough 4.88s or so maybe even 5.13s would be better depending on the tire size, but we all know we want the biggest , right

Yep 4.56's would be nice,so would 4.88's,Supeior gear just came out with 4.88's for the 8.25,can't go any lower in the 8.25(like it matters since you can't go lower then 4.10's in the front end).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 6:01 pm 
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Because the front dif is aluminum or because it is a Dana 30 regardless of being aluminum or cast metal?

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