That would depend on how far you lift, and what other lift devices you have. If you're only doing a clevis lift on a stock suspension, you really don't want to lift it much (like an inch or so, at most. that's 1/2" in the clevis). That shouldn't cause any UBJ/coil contact, I wouldn't think.

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Ron


"There are few problems in life the liberal application of duct tape can't solve."

I have an '02 Sport I don't mind the rear end up higher look that seems to bother a lot of people. But then again when I started drive that was the look we were are looking for (If you couldn't own a true muscle car make your look like a muscle car.) Anyway having finally since have gotten my first taste of crawling, I have brand new tires 235/70-16, it will be a while till I replace them. Do I add clevis or spacer or both to gain a little clearence, or just get my armor plating and skids and wait till I can put bigger meats on the ground???

My brother is plannimg to add add an inch for $50 (4 spring isolators and 1/2" clevis gap) and run 235/75's. Plus mopar armor and front hooks. Pretty cheap way to increase your clearance and protection. I guess it depends on what kind of wheeling you do. Looks like you are in Co and would have a lot more options than I, in Iowa....

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77 CJ5 - sold

05 Lt Kaki CRD sport - OME HD FLII - Als UCAs - 255/70/R16 Grabber AT2
3/4 Mopar skids and hooks - Aux lighting F&R
no muffler - Sirius- Browning buckmark mud flaps
$2.76 walmart compass - and a big Black Lab in the back - sold

80 CJ7 4in springs etc.

06 TJ Unlimited

I just put 245/75-16's on with no lift, really not much rubbing but I wanna get a little more clearance. Could someone be so kind as to post the link to the "how to do the clevis lift" thread? Ive been looking around but can't find it and I'm running out of time on my lunch break. Can you do this with average mechanic's tools? Need an alignment afterward?

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

Clevis lift
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=168

Anytime you touch the frontend it's a good idea to get an alignment -
The Clevis lift probably won't move things enough to be a problem if you decide not to.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Thanks a bunch!

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

takes about 10 - 15 mis a side.. remove two bolts ( upper and lower clevis bolts ). hit clevis with hammer to remove, install conduit washers, and reassemble( may need a small crowbar for lower clevis bolt ). dont need to even bother disconneting upper ball joints... piece of cake

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04 SILVER KJ 4X4 LIMITED
5/8" CLEVIS LIFT
CLEAR CORNERS
245/70/16 A/T TIRES
MOPAR FACTORY SUB SOON!!!!

How many conduit washers do you have for 5/8" lift?

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

don't you need a spring compressor to do this? or is that for the rear with the iso pads?

Ok, the whole "2:1" ratio for the lift... I don't follow. I'm a physics guy... I see the point of the "it's further from the pivot point" but... I don't think it applies here. Whether a clevis lift, OTT spacer, or strut spring spacer it makes no difference.... all do the exact same thing... Make strut "taller" so it sits higher. If one gives a 2:1 ratio, they all would.

I'd have to disagree with the 2:1 thing... but if someone can explain, please do!

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T.J. N
07 KJ; 2.5" RRO lift + 1/2" clevis lift & xtra isolators; 245/75R16 Dayton Timberline MT's;
ProComp ES3000 shocks; ProComp Explorer 5" driving lights; Mopar Tail light guards,
grille inserts, roof x-bars, tow hooks; full Mopar plus custom skids, custom spare tire riser;
Magnum hood deflector
soon: winch in factory front bumper...

do not need a spring compressor for either end, to do a clevis or the isolater, one person can do the rear in 20 minutes by themselves easy, takes longer to jack it up and remove the tires than anything

tom

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

The clevis and OTT will both give the same lift given the same thickness/spacer added because they both make the strut longer...just in different ways. Adding the same spacer to the spring will give a different lift because it does not make the strut longer it only adds more preload to the spring so it does not compress as much when weight is added, which is a little more complicated...especially if you are dealing with progressive springs.

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It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox