Thats what I am wondering I assume that everyone so far that we have heard about has an open diff in the front ( I may be wrong but) just one of those thing that make you go mmmmmmmm

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Every case I have heard of with a broken diff housing has had the same circumstances...wheel spinning, grabbed traction, pop!
A front locker would prevent that from happening (unless you are spinning at least 3 wheels)and I beleive it would be a "fix". And a darn good reason for an upgrade!

Im not saying you couldnt still break the thing but I think you would have to try a lot harder.

I wonder if anyone has busted a diff in a rig with ESP?

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It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

Mine has ESP, and broke...that was 3 weeks ago...

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Had 2005 KJ Rocky Mnt. Edition (destroyed)
Had 2006 KJ Sport 4x4
Have 2007 JK 4-dr Sahara 4x4 (tow package so stock 4.10s!!)
AEV 3.5" RS Lift; Schrockworks FR bumper and Warn 9.5ti winch; Cobra 75 CB; Rigid 50" LED light bar; Adventure Trailers (AT Overland) JK Kitchen setup in the cargo area.
Southern L.O.S.T. # 236487

Well theres goes that theory out the door! Well maybe it does, has one broke yet that had a regular locker?

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

So far I haven't heard of anyone breaking if they had the collar or an ARB locker installed.

ARB doesn't recommend the RD100 be installed in the D30a because of the weakness, but I know a number of LOST members have it installed and I haven't heard of anyone with an issue.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

You did the same obstacle like 5 mins before those pics were taken...you almost had the very situation I had, you were bringing the front up and then rocking forward...but you got right up. My KJ is older and seen a little wheeling (about a year, 6 trips at the most)...just think it was about ready to go. I'm not sure if they get older and worn, and the slack in the shaft and the force just takes it. I dunno...all this talk about an ARB locker just makes me wonder if I shouldn't just get one installed in mine before I get a new one put in there. Makes more sense to do it now since it's already guna be out of the Jeep...

I know we discussed that on the way back...do lockers front and rear regulate the speed of the front and rear wheels? I would think that the wheels would roll synchronized or at the same speed...which may help. To my knowledge (very little FYI..), the fronts may or may not spin faster than the rears depending on the situation. Both of my diffs are open, no ESP, no trac-loc, nothing. The use of a locker controlling the speed would help reduce the force when the front wheels drop suddenly.

It seems I've came down harder many times before...

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02' Frankenlifted White Sport on 31" TrXus M/Ts

89' 2 Dr. Khaki XJ- Waggy 44's, 4.88s, 35's, 3-link on 5.5" coils.

Yes lockers F/R will help.With open diffs once one wheel on a axle looses traction one of the rears will also and get uncontroled wheel spin(only on part time 4wd),if in fulltime 4wd if one wheel looses tration all the torque will go to that one wheel,bad deal there.Lockers will keep that one wheel that is in the air spinning the same speed as the one on the ground.I use a little brake pedal action to "lock" up my front diff with my TT and have not had any problems and I see alot of air under one or the other front wheels here in CO.Even with just a rear locker you probally would have not blown the front diff since with both rears providing traction you would have still gone forward without any jumping and bam there goes the front diff.Just to warn you having a front ARB is good but sometimes trying to turn is impossible if the front is locked thus you need to unlock the front diff to proceed,I watch USAFCOP having to do this all the time.Not to boost the TT but I don't have the negitive steering effects of the ARB and with a little brake action can make it lock up like a ARB,plus I'm real easy on the skinny pedal and use my rear ARB even though I get made fun of for using it all the time(heck I paid for it I'm going to use the darn thing).

Let's not forget too that if a wheel is spinning free through an open differential, and the other wheel is totally stopped, the spinning wheel is spinning at twice the speed it would if the other was turning too.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

So the TT up front can be locked up with a little brake pedal, cost about half the price of the ARB and you can install it yourself.... Sounds like a pretty good choice if you have Cmnd Trak. I gotta go with the ARB though cause I like my Full Time 4WD, don't want to give that up.

I'm ordering a diff collar as well. After seeing this first hand, I want to buy some extra insurance.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Whats better is All J's has a TT for $300, seems to be better than spending $1000+ on an ARB locker.

I may look into this...just need to get the diff first. I've pulled it in our shop and my dad and I got everything prepared for an install. We may attempt it ourselves...

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02' Frankenlifted White Sport on 31" TrXus M/Ts

89' 2 Dr. Khaki XJ- Waggy 44's, 4.88s, 35's, 3-link on 5.5" coils.

Collar won't fit a CRD.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Thats a REALLY good idea....I'll be doing the same!

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02' Frankenlifted White Sport on 31" TrXus M/Ts

89' 2 Dr. Khaki XJ- Waggy 44's, 4.88s, 35's, 3-link on 5.5" coils.

Still would like to know where you can get one of those collars

Chris

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2002 Liberty, 3.7L auto, Franky

I'll be the guinea pig on this one. I believe the reason it wouldn't fit is that the Aluminum one that was ordered for the group buy was too tall, wouldn't fit in the space available on the CRD. I ordered a steel one, not as tall as the aluminum one, I'm going to give it a try. I found a thread from AndySRT who was going to do the same, but not sure if he actually ordered it and got it installed.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

think it was a 1 time group buy thing. dont think any companies actually make one. could be wrong though.

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02' Sport- SOLD

07' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 1500 4x4
Yeah it's got a hemi!

Ordered it from McMaster, 3.5 in inside diameter, needs to be machined out. to 3 9/16. Not sure if outside diameter will be ok or will need to be machined down as well.

I'll keep you posted.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Sorry to hear about this Evan - Been there before - almost same place... it just sucks.
Fortunately I was able to pull both half shafts out and drive it back home - of course after fixing the broken balljoint - now that i see back on it, it is something I would never do again. Both Bakerkj - when he broke and myself drove our rigs back home.
I think it does have to do with a lot of luck or something else - those rock ledges at Badlands are legendary for being rig trashers - I'veen front diffs and shafts being torn bad at the same spots. It happens every single weekend we go there.
I read that you probably do not have warranty and that sucks even more - I got mine replaced under warranty and the dealer knew how I broke it....
Good luck finding a replacement - if I see anything around, I'll let you know

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Henry, yea it was just bad luck. I'm just wishing I would have packed it up early and headed home. It was going to be the last line I was guna hit before heading back to the parking lot to air up. I know yours happened less than 200 feet away...and you're right, those ledges are just the place to eat rigs. I'm not sure there was anything I could have done differently...I'm not sure the speed of the tires really had any effect on it, the amount of force it had when it landed probably led to it's fate. It does suck about no warranty, but I was the person to assume the consequences of wheeling my vehicle without one. I thought we all had a great day, and we weren't looking for damage. We (the group) all made pretty smart decisions out there the whole day, this was just something that happened regardless.

I'll be doing some extreme searching of the junkyards this week, and I sure hope I come up with something. I was considering pulling the shafts to drive to school and back but for the time being I have my dad's F150 to travel in and I'd feel soo much safer commuting in that (about 30 miles one way to college) than the KJ. I just wouldn't want something to go wrong. I drove it into our shop tonite and I could smell the strong scent of burnt diff fluid. It's staying put until I get one installed. Thanks for the help...if anyone knows where I can get one at a decent price please let me know. I would extremely appreciate it. All of you guys at L.O.S.T. have been great, definitley the midwest crew. You all rock!

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02' Frankenlifted White Sport on 31" TrXus M/Ts

89' 2 Dr. Khaki XJ- Waggy 44's, 4.88s, 35's, 3-link on 5.5" coils.

Throw a little R and D and $ at this and put a regular (read: not aluminum) D30 in there? Or something better...!?

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127390/14
2006 Kawasaki KLR650

That may do it. If I remember right, some people with the CRD did get them on, but then had noise from contact. Just a little smaller might do it.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k