It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 4:15 pm

Depends on the price spread - I was young and as-then uneducated, so I paid 175 for a very low mileage pre-owned '06 module, here - other than that check the oem mileage - doesn't take long to rack up 200kmi on a Ram Cummins - here, they immediately pull the module and store it and the tank, but how long it sat B4 that is unknown, not harmful for a gasser (patooie!) but Diesel fuel degrades and putresces when left to sit - and you'll still need the V6 harness - so caveat emptier, there

Would be extremely handy if there were some way where KJ'ers could trade their tank modules to the Cummins guys for their lp tank modules - they are beginning to replace theirs, also, needing the Jeep modules for racing with external high-output lift pumps

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 4:19 pm

gmctd wrote:

No prob, Joe - your intent was clear, apparently mine was not - I'm the only one (maybe ATXKJ) that has done this, and I did an '07 into an '05 - noone has done an '06, y about.

My back is gray, my hair is dim, and my eyes are old and bent, but I don't as yet feel like expiring - they say three things start to go the older a person gets: one is memory, and while I don't remember the other two, I think you will have absolutely nothing to worry about if you can use a camera and post pics - and then we'll have the '06 CRD\V6 data.

So, whaddaya thimk?

I'll be able to get the parts and proced next month

My hair is gray and I've learned the hard way what my back can and can't do :lol:

I didn't realize no one has done a stealth 06 yet

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 5:32 pm

FYI - I didn't finish mine - I just played with wiring harnesses, seats, carpets and found things I could mess up.

However the next time window I get to play again - I think the 'swap the wires on the new harness connector' will be easier than 'dis-assembling/reassemble' old harness.
(I know, I know, gmctd does that stuff just for fun)
I will however lay out old and new harnesses side by side and check continuity on every wire before plugging it in, just incase I confused a wire color.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:34 pm

I've never dropped a fuel tank or pulled a fuel pickup before. Is there anything I need to know? The 2006 KJ service manual describes a special fuel pickup tool (lockring remover/installer 9340) which fastens to the ring and rotates the assembly to install/uninstall it. Do I need to manually compress the assembly and kinda stuff it in there, or will it properly compress on its own without hanging up?

I imagine it'll at least be a little less stressful than doing it on a gasser.

- Chris

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:52 pm

That's done with a hammer and a blunt chisel or screwdriver - place the tip against one of the tabs, hit it till it moves, do the opposite tab, then back and forth between them, noting progress - the ring will then pop out - install is just the opposite, incl direction of thrust.

The anti-static electrically-conductive thermo-plastic tank is easy when nearly empty - the filler hose and vent tube are still soft and pliant, the clamps loosen easily - the conductive supply\return tubing is plastic, easily reforms as the tank drops (figuratively speaking, hopefully!) - the clamps are push-to-release - there's plenty of service loop in the hoses and wire harness - the strap bolts are not rusted into their respective nuts - at least, they aren't, down here below the 'it don't snow much down here' line.............

Go for it - it'll be over B4 you know it - fact is, if you're not careful, you'll doze off and sleep right thru it, missing all the fun................

dieseldawg · **Posted:** Thu Jan 03, 2008 9:20 pm

Hi All,

I have a new Cummins fuel pump and wiring coming Friday. I ordered the 06 V6 harness to use in an 06 CRD. I may attempt the job this weekend, but with vacation coming on Monday I may not get to it. I am planning on taking pictures and can let you all know how the 06 V6 to 06 CRD wiring swap goes. I also installed a fuel pressure gauge to monitor pressures once the pump is installed, hopefully alerting me to when the filter starts to plug up. I am going to put the CAT conversion back on once the pump is installed as well. Thanks to all for inspiring me to go forward and try this. I am looking forward to a "stutterless" ride and no more air in the filter head.

Craig

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:13 am

Cool - bring it on, 'dawg, with pics..........................

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:09 pm

For your consideration, here's info on the two Cummins fuel manager heads, one without lift pump, one with lift pump designed for CP3 CRD service - should bolt right up to the KJ mounting bracket - as you can see, they are both top-loaders, thus filter change-out suddenly becomes user-friendly - both are the same unit: the '05 is the factory modification for the in-tank lift pump, also part of the '03-'04 factory upgrade kit - simply add Fuel Inlet Temperature Sensor to one of the fuel-return line ports on either side and yer good to go............

Inlet view, here shown reclining, at rest - fuel-return port at top, adjacent mounting-upright - if it were upright

Face-on, showing ease of adaptability to KJ real estate

Outlet view, reclining, with fuel heater\t-stat connector and WIF draincock - WIF sensor has left the building - straight-thru fuel-return port at top, directly opposite inlet side

Interior of both types, filter is resident - if you're sitting down, at ease and calm, note the internal black plastic fuel-heater puck.....ring......thingy

Self-explanatory, and yet even another option for those wanting an external lift pump, and wishing to kill two bugs in one fell swoop

In the last case - and for those wishing to retain the DCJ oem configuration - might wanna drop the fuel tank, replace the two plastic pressure fittings in the supply line with screw-clamped rubber hose to eliminate all possibility of vacuum leaks - requires:
a.) two fixes: one at the tank module, another in the tank-to-chassis line, or
b.) one fix, with longer hose replacing the short adaptor line
That oem two-piece scheme was necessary to satisfy all configurations

FYI - all plastic fuel lines and the tank are anti-static electrically-conductive material, grounded to the chassis thru the various mounting\attaching schemes.

Contemplate and enjoy, grasshoppers..................

cxturboboost · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 3:12 pm

So,

If you have an 06 and you buy the gas burner harness, do you need to change anything in the harness plug, or just plug in, run the ground and your done? Does the WIF sensor and fuel heater go directly to the cummins housing or is modification required? Thanks GMCTD for sharing your finds.

Pete

Okay...
Read more of this thread (Sorry). I see that the verdict is still out on the 06 CRD. I don't know when I'll be able to do this mod, but I want to be as prepared as possible for when I get ready. Thanks again GMCTD for all your sharing of information...

marauderer · **Posted:** Thu Feb 07, 2008 9:25 am

Thanks to all that have and are contributing to this thread, Especially gmctd. I have read the whole thing and I have all the major symptoms on my CRD. I can't wait to install this mod as it will take out the stumble and the feeling that it is starving for fuel. As for the warranty I wrote off DCX a year ago and said to heck with them as they are never going to make these vehicles right. But, I will eventually.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:14 pm

Ordered the following today:

5143160AA - module, fuel lift pump 2005-2006 Dodge 2500/3500 Cummins
56047848AB - wiring, fuel tank, 2006 Liberty 3.7L

Will follow up with connector/wiring pictures once I have them in hand.

- Chris

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:54 pm

Cool - FYI, take very clear pics of the rear-cabin connector in the V6 harness, such that terminal positions and corresponding wires\colors can be seen for the row on each side - do the same for the rear cabin connector - only real difference should be the 3 wires for the Vacuum Leak Detector wiring, which you don't got none of in the CRD KJ - if those terminal positions are uncommitted in the CRD cabin connector, you can just plug it in and let it ride.

I'm still trying to schedule an appointment with #2son's CRD on the Fleetguard fuel manager head install - previous engagement is the on-going de facto response................

cxturboboost · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:09 pm

Please do post your find. I'm sure I will be doing the same one of these days and would love to know a little about what I'm getting into before I tear it all apart.

Pete

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:09 pm

gmctd wrote:

Cool - FYI, take very clear pics of the rear-cabin connector in the V6 harness, such that terminal positions and corresponding wires\colors can be seen for the row on each side - do the same for the rear cabin connector - only real difference should be the 3 wires for the Vacuum Leak Detector wiring, which you don't got none of in the CRD KJ - if those terminal positions are uncommitted in the CRD cabin connector, you can just plug it in and let it ride.

I'm still trying to schedule an appointment with #2son's CRD on the Fleetguard fuel manager head install - previous engagement is the on-going de facto response................

Got a part number or price yet for the fuel manager head?

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:06 pm

None so far - mine came from Ebay, part number 'you've won this item'.................

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:12 am

chrispitude wrote:

Ordered the following today:

5143160AA - module, fuel lift pump 2005-2006 Dodge 2500/3500 Cummins
56047848AB - wiring, fuel tank, 2006 Liberty 3.7L

Will follow up with connector/wiring pictures once I have them in hand.

- Chris

Go, Chrispitude!

Can't wait to hear about it. Me soon, hopefully.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:06 pm

When you do the install, take LOTS of pictures, make notes, and put together a "How To" document. I'm sure we could find someone to host it.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:48 pm

I ordered the Kennedy lift pump this afternoon based upon recommendations of some others in this forum. Wish me luck..... :shock:

dieseldawg · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:57 pm

Well everyone,

I've finally found some free time and begun my install of the Dodge Cummins Truck in-tank fuel pump. Tonight's project was to get the wiring done from the inside of the cabin to the tank. I am using the V6 harness for an 06 and putting it into an 06 CRD sport. I removed the back seat which involved taking out six bolts around the the seat belt latches and the two sides as well as the two nuts on the two sides. Next, there are 4 bolts along the front edge of the seat that hold the lift brackets to the floor. Remove those then its just a matter of wrestling the seat out the back since the side doors don't open very wide and there is more of a risk of scratching the paint with the brackets hanging loose. With the back seat out, tug on the carpet to get it out from under the plastic edging and push it up towards the front seats. Once you do this, the magic connector will be revealed. At this point, I began comparing the harnesses, quickly realizing that they are quite different. My decision was to remove the positive pump feed wire and the ground wire from the V6 harness and transplant it to the harness already in the CRD.

The connectors come apart quite easily. Start with the V6 harness. (its practice for the one in the jeep) The end that attaches to the fuel module in the tank, it is a matter of removing the outer black part by using a small ice pick or tiny screw driver to pry on the two sides to bow the black plastic out just enough it clears the little gray tabs. Once thats off, pull out the silicone weather shield and you can see the back of the terminals. On the inside of the connector there is a blue shroud. Going in from where the main large clip is, just push that blue thing out the front and you will then have access to the little tabs that release the terminals. The wires just slide right out...you shouldn't have to force anything.

The connector that mates to the connector inside the Jeep comes apart in the same fashion minus the blue thing. You do need to remove the blank fillers before the black part will come off. Now we have a red thing. Using needle nose pliers, pull on one of the red nipples and the whole red piece will come out. Now you can release the little clip and slide the terminal out.

I removed all the electrical tape and got the two wires out of the V6 harness. You will have to clip the ground at one point where it splits and heads to another connector. Just keep the correct part of it.

Now go ahead and get back to the Jeep and I started inside attaching the ground (see pic) and putting the positive wire in slot number two on the already existent harness. Now its just a matter of untaping spot by spot and running the wires through the exisiting harness all the way back to the tank. Takes a little while, and get frustrating trying to push the wire into the plastic conduit, but I think it gives the cleanest installation. I would recommend using a multimeter and testing the wires to make sure you have the right spot. You should have +12v power for around 25 seconds after the key is on (no engine running) and then the power goes out. If you bump the starter, the power will come back on for 25 seconds and then go out. Check this. With it quiet in the garage, I could hear the relay turning off under the hood followed by the meter showing no voltage.

Now put the back seat back in and put the inside of the Jeep back together. I will post the next step of installing the module in the tank as soon as I get to it.

Here are some pics at this site. http://mysite.verizon.net/jeepcrd/

I will keep them there as long as verizon lets me. Hopefully there are no usage limitations. oh well.

Hopefully this gives a good idea to start with.

Craig

Just remember...Its not my fault if you do something to your Jeep following my instructions and it damages your vehicle. I described the best I could at how I did what I did. It worked for me. This is at your own risk.[/url]

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 11:34 pm

dieseldawg wrote:

Well everyone,

I've finally found some free time and begun my install of the Dodge Cummins Truck in-tank fuel pump. Tonight's project was to get the wiring done from the inside of the cabin to the tank. I am using the V6 harness for an 06 and putting it into an 06 CRD sport. I removed the back seat which involved taking out six bolts around the the seat belt latches and the two sides as well as the two nuts on the two sides. Next, there are 4 bolts along the front edge of the seat that hold the lift brackets to the floor. Remove those then its just a matter of wrestling the seat out the back since the side doors don't open very wide and there is more of a risk of scratching the paint with the brackets hanging loose. With the back seat out, tug on the carpet to get it out from under the plastic edging and push it up towards the front seats. Once you do this, the magic connector will be revealed. At this point, I began comparing the harnesses, quickly realizing that they are quite different. My decision was to remove the positive pump feed wire and the ground wire from the V6 harness and transplant it to the harness already in the CRD.

The connectors come apart quite easily. Start with the V6 harness. (its practice for the one in the jeep) The end that attaches to the fuel module in the tank, it is a matter of removing the outer black part by using a small ice pick or tiny screw driver to pry on the two sides to bow the black plastic out just enough it clears the little gray tabs. Once thats off, pull out the silicone weather shield and you can see the back of the terminals. On the inside of the connector there is a blue shroud. Going in from where the main large clip is, just push that blue thing out the front and you will then have access to the little tabs that release the terminals. The wires just slide right out...you shouldn't have to force anything.

The connector that mates to the connector inside the Jeep comes apart in the same fashion minus the blue thing. You do need to remove the blank fillers before the black part will come off. Now we have a red thing. Using needle nose pliers, pull on one of the red nipples and the whole red piece will come out. Now you can release the little clip and slide the terminal out.

I removed all the electrical tape and got the two wires out of the V6 harness. You will have to clip the ground at one point where it splits and heads to another connector. Just keep the correct part of it.

Now go ahead and get back to the Jeep and I started inside attaching the ground (see pic) and putting the positive wire in slot number two on the already existent harness. Now its just a matter of untaping spot by spot and running the wires through the exisiting harness all the way back to the tank. Takes a little while, and get frustrating trying to push the wire into the plastic conduit, but I think it gives the cleanest installation. I would recommend using a multimeter and testing the wires to make sure you have the right spot. You should have +12v power for around 25 seconds after the key is on (no engine running) and then the power goes out. If you bump the starter, the power will come back on for 25 seconds and then go out. Check this. With it quiet in the garage, I could hear the relay turning off under the hood followed by the meter showing no voltage.

Now put the back seat back in and put the inside of the Jeep back together. I will post the next step of installing the module in the tank as soon as I get to it.

Here are some pics at this site. http://mysite.verizon.net/jeepcrd/

I will keep them there as long as verizon lets me. Hopefully there are no usage limitations. oh well.

Hopefully this gives a good idea to start with.

Craig

Just remember...Its not my fault if you do something to your Jeep following my instructions and it damages your vehicle. I described the best I could at how I did what I did. It worked for me. This is at your own risk.[/url]

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webmaster@colorado4wheel.com

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