Happy 70K - bye bye turbo?

Spowers · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:46 am

Well,

Just rolled 70K this weekend, and to thank me for all of my love to the CRD.
I think the turbo is giving me the finger.

The exhaust note has a louder resonence and there is less boost - sometimes none at all. - no gauge- just seat of pants feel.

What gets me is it appears to be intermittent.

I am going to tear into this this weekend, other than the norms. anything else this could be?

Running ORM
Codes:
P0299
P1252 <- this is a new one -I could not find a post on it
P0403
P1140
P0120

Already did a visible on the boost filter, and hoses, but will go further on the hoses.
Thank for any and all help

Uffe · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:17 pm

Could be between these two codes:

# P1250 Early Fuel Evaporation Heater Circuit
# P1257 Supercharger System Overboost

Found here: http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html

More I found:

P1252 Pedal Correlation PDS1 and LPDS High

Found here: http://www.kbmsystems.net/obd_fault_codes_db.htm

That's all I could find

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:43 pm

most likely thing are the hoses, pull them off and check them for splits.

If you have a crapped out hose maybe you can make do with a temporary patch untill the Samco hoses come out.

Also if you have a crapped out hose we might be able to get you temporary use hose untill the Samco hoses come out.

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:15 pm

Hmmmm, I vote first for the hoses. But, were this an iowa causus, my second vote vote might be for an electronic bugaboo with the electronic pedals. Never did trust the idea of a non-mechanical diesel-pedal. And that code "P1252 Pedal Correlation PDS1 and LPDS High" sounds like some hinky electrical poop. Hate that stuff.

Hmmm, time for a mechanical linkage mod! What do they gain by making a simple thing like a gas-pedal so freaking complicated?

chrispitude · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:43 pm

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

Hmmmm, I vote first for the hoses. But, were this an iowa causus, my second vote vote might be for an electronic bugaboo with the electronic pedals. Never did trust the idea of a non-mechanical diesel-pedal. And that code "P1252 Pedal Correlation PDS1 and LPDS High" sounds like some hinky electrical poop. Hate that stuff.

Hmmm, time for a mechanical linkage mod! What do they gain by making a simple thing like a gas-pedal so freaking complicated?

The electronic pedal in my 2005 Toyota Tundra has been absolutely rock-solid reliable. You probably wouldn't be able to tell it from a mechanical linkage.

- Chris

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:03 pm

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

Hmmmm, I vote first for the hoses. But, were this an iowa causus, my second vote vote might be for an electronic bugaboo with the electronic pedals. Never did trust the idea of a non-mechanical diesel-pedal. And that code "P1252 Pedal Correlation PDS1 and LPDS High" sounds like some hinky electrical poop. Hate that stuff.

Hmmm, time for a mechanical linkage mod! What do they gain by making a simple thing like a gas-pedal so freaking complicated?

Well, either there would be a cable running up to the engine bay where they would be a electronic pickup for the throttle input, or they put it down by the pedal. In this case they put it down by the pedal.

Any way you look at it a modern diesel engine is going to be controlled by a drive by wire system for the EFI. Might as well make life simplier by putting the Throttle pickup on the pedal and eliminate the throttle cable.

Spowers · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:32 pm

Well, looks like it may be the hose - both end are very oily -on the outside! Eeeew!
I was sliding around the outside of the turbo end, and found a spot next to the air box line that you could catch a nail on. not sure if its a crack yet, but it was really soft.

So..how long untill we get the Samco hoses?

As for the trottle position - I am clues less on that one

tigafila · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:38 pm

When mine threw P0299 the catalytic converter was starting to plug. You can check it by loosening or disconnecting the exhaust at the turbo and comparing seat of the pants or if you want to be acurate & don't want to install a boost guage at this point you can get a cheapie vacuum guage from the auto parts store (the scale also shows pressure) tee it in to a port on top of the intake and drive it with the exhaust connected & disconnected. If it is the converter I believe it's at least covered under 8/80 emission warranty. HTH, tigafila

Uffe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:42 am

Does the US CRDs use catalytic converters?

Mine most likely doesn't use one, I can check it later today if needed.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 4:05 am

Uffe wrote:

Does the US CRDs use catalytic converters?

Mine most likely doesn't use one, I can check it later today if needed.

It does, Im give it a 75% chance yours has one.

Uffe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:06 am

Wouldn't such a beast reduce the smell of a diesel?

Hmm, maybe I should start inhaling some exhaust gasses when its warm to tell the difference between my former Patrol and the KJ...

Spowers · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:02 am

It changes the exhaust scent.
I stinks - nothing like a cold morning and the smell of a freshly started diesel. But once the Cat warms up - Yuck!

New senario on my problem - It appears to be getting better with the temperature drop.

Could - and this I know very little about - but could a 5 day temp cycle of 30's->60's->30's have messed up the computer enough to cause this problem.

This morning, we are back down to 30's and it ran great the entire way into work?

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:05 am

Vacuum should be ~26", measured with a vacuum guage, rather than a designated finger

P1250, 1251, 1252 is vacuum reservoir errors - check out the wiring, connector, and possibly the solenoid, over between the fender and the airbox

Vacuum problems = Boost problems

Spowers · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:37 pm

OK, this has really got me stumped :
The colder it gets the better its running
THis evening were at around 30 and its got all its off the line pick up back even after the engine is up to temp.?

Also the inlet hose has gone WAY up in price $171 but the dealer was nice and would let it go for $145 if I needed it.

I say a $200 Samco hose is not out of line at all

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:53 pm

Spowers wrote:

OK, this has really got me stumped :
The colder it gets the better its running
THis evening were at around 30 and its got all its off the line pick up back even after the engine is up to temp.?

Also the inlet hose has gone WAY up in price $171 but the dealer was nice and would let it go for $145 if I needed it.

I say a $200 Samco hose is not out of line at all

$300 for Samco hoses.

You should be able to get the stock hoses for around a $100 by showing the price match online, or just ordering them online.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:16 pm

With the boost our CRds have (over 30PSI), it is a wonder the hoses stay on as well as they do. With some of my older diesels of the past with only a 10 psi boost, hoses popping off after 70k were part of life. I would check the clamps every oil change. With spring type clamps like my wife's TDI a road obstruction like a stick or small stone can knock the clamp loose and the hose can pop off, been there had that happen. A TDI with a popped off hose is a real dog almost as bad as the old Pugouet 405 diesel.
Just remember, always, check your hoses before you start looking for a turbo failure.

Steve :wink:

chadhargis · **Posted:** Sat Jan 26, 2008 9:20 pm

I just got the P1250 code today. I reset the code but watched the MAP guage on my Scanguage and I was getting very low boost. Still getting boost, but the MAP would not go above about 19psi unless you stomped the pedal to the floor then it would get up to about 23psi. Normally it gets up in the 30's.

When I restarted again, I got the P0299 underboost code. I figure it's the boost solinoid, but I have no way of testing it. Guess it's time to take it to the dealer for warranty work. Glad I haven't reflashed my ECU with the InMotion tune yet.

I did check the CAC hose, and it's fine. On good and tight with no splits or residue on it. It's got to be a vaccum leak. That's the only thing else it could be since the VGT is controlled by vaccum.

chadhargis · **Posted:** Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:32 pm

I did some searching in my service manuals and found that the P1250 is a "VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID CIRCUIT OPEN" code. Looks like the solenoid is either bad, has a blow fuse, or is grounded. It's too dark out tonight, so I'll check it in the morning.

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2008 4:36 am

What the hell - 30 PSI??

LOL that's 2 bars of pressure. Nearly the same as in my tyres. Why do they go that far? Many older turbo diesel engines don't run at pressure higher than 1bar, maximum. Heck most run with 0.8 bar that's 11.6PSI.

Spowers · **Posted:** Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:32 am

chadhargis - Keep us posted on your success.

As I am out of warranty - I am slacking on taking mine in- I think mine is a failing solenoid - At idle you can hear the turbo vanes engage- then disengage.

I checked all of the vacuum lines - they all look good and are tight

Are you getting intermittent engagement at all?

Happy 70K - bye bye turbo?

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