The CRD is back in the shop, Help with Diag = FIXED

Bovie · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:33 pm

I posted a couple of months ago when my CRD was shaking (Missing I think) after the 2cd start. It was fine when it was cold but once it warmed up and was shutdown for 10-15 minutes then restarted it would shake, have less than 1/2 the power then would turn back to normal after 5-15 seconds and drive like nothing ever happened with 2 exceptions. 1 Time it almost didn't make it up the big hill near my house rpm's were up around 3000 but I had NO POWER. So I took it into the dealer, they could find nothing wrong but did install a rough idle computer update.
Well I drove it around for a couple weeks and the problem was still there. :evil:

Anyway I noticed that if I let the thing idle for 1-3 minutes before taking off I wouldn't have the problem. I spent about 3 weeks driving around like this before I left it idle for almost 10 minutes (because I was talking to someone) backed out of my parking spot and didn't notice the problem navigating (which is where I normally notice it) so I take off and merge in front of traffic and voila NO POWER :twisted:

because it's such a busy street and no where to pull off I keep my foot in it and get it to a stop light but as soon as I take my foot off the accelerator the car shakes really bad and the engine quits. I try to restart about 6 times and nothing. So I let it sit about 2 minutes and restart put it back in drive and the thing takes off like nothing ever happened no CEL nothing.
So I drive the thing do the dealer with out an appointment and say you guys gotta fix this. I explain the problem then the lady goes out and tries to move my car and it does it to her, at least now they can't say nothing is wrong.

Anyway what do you guys think it is?
At first I was thinking trans but I noticed if I start the car when it's warm and rev it up to 1500 it misses for 5-15 seconds so not the transmission. My guess is a leak in the fuel filter housing. The injection pump bleeds off the air and allows me to drive on like nothing happens between occurrences?
But why doesn't it give me a problem when it's cold. I guess it could be an injector or two???

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:14 am

It could be lots of things, but air is a very real possibility. I would hope by now that the dealers know to look for this, but who knows. Air could cause all the symptoms you describe and not set a CEL.

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Did you try bleeding the fuel filter/head when it acted up?

It sounds like air in fuel to me to, causing a fuel starvation problem. The symptoms are most noticeable between 55-60 mph.

Bovie · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:18 am

99% of the time once I'm going I don't have a problem, only twice has it caused a problem once I'm on the road and once it did quit after I started it cold. I've tried bleeding the air multiple times. If only the CRD had a boost pump in the tank, it would be shooting fuel everywhere if you have a leak.

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:39 am

Could be fuel filter yeah. Could be air filter too.

However, what I really think it is is the MAF which is clogged with soot. Clean MAF, be happy.

Instructions here:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=67074

Search for "BOOST CONTROL SENSOR" or "contamination" on the PAGE and it will take you right where you need to start reading

Oh yeah check out the other parts too if you're interested. Good information right there!

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2008 7:31 am

Uffe wrote:

However, what I really think it is is the MAF which is clogged with soot. Clean MAF, be happy.
Search for "BOOST CONTROL SENSOR" or "contamination" on the PAGE and it will take you right where you need to start reading

Uffe.
That would be the MAP sensor on the intake manifold :lol:

The MAF is on the air filter box :wink:

Joe

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:04 am

Yes you're right. I get those two mixed up all the time. However with a picture showing where it is the confusion should be over

CRDLIBERTY · **Joined:** Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:52 pm **Posts:** 72

I posted today about my fuel filter change. Chrysler has some issues! First check the bottom of the filter to see if the wif sensor is tight mine was loose? Just grab it and see if shes ok, my fuel heater is smoked theres a big long post on this check yours. I had the regional head guy take a look at my crd he doesnt know all that much about CRDs, didnt even check my fuel heater. I guarantee its not your maf or map its fuel problem yes but the delivery. I spent 3 years working on my boat which is very similar to this diesel, 2 stroke outboard.

Bovie · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:21 am

So the dealership called me today. The tech was able to replicate the problem, yay

They did a compression test and tested all the injectors. The tech also noted the engine was full of soot. The service manager thinks the EGR might be part of the problem. He said the tech was going to drive it home tonight to get a better understanding of exactly what is happening.

I'm also thinking it's a fuel delivery / air problem. The Cummins and Mercedes Diesels doesn't have these problem Fuel why oh why does the CRD.

But I still love the car. Diesels Rock!!!

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Poor fuel filter head design and an EGR that is prone to fail. SEGR mod takes care of the EGR problem. If you have serious air in fuel problem, might be worth considering going aftermarket (if you can't get a new head under warranty). I'd certainly prefer to spend my $150 bucks on a high quality Racor than sticking another OEM on mine.

Bovie · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:49 pm

I'm under warranty for another 80,000 miles, so the dealership should be fixing everything. But I agree if I was out of warranty I would be throwing on something else.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2008 5:44 pm

Bovie - ask them very directly if EGR issues are covered by your warranty. EGR problems can be... problematic, depending upon your current mileage and which particular warranty is in force.

Good luck,

Mark
==

Bovie wrote:

I'm under warranty for another 80,000 miles, so the dealership should be fixing everything. But I agree if I was out of warranty I would be throwing on something else.

Bovie · **Posted:** Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:34 am

Mark thanks for the advice.

I picked up the car today because after the tech was able to duplicate the problem he drove it really hard and blow a ton of crud out the engine. The service manager told me that they were unable to make it do it again after he drove it hard. The tech even drove the car home last night. They think the problem was a piece of carbon sicking the EGR valve open and thats why I don't have any codes.

I stopped at the grocery store on the way home and it does the same dam thing when I go out and restart it. So I'm going back to the dealer first thing in the morning and telling them I'm leaving it until they can find the problem. I know the problem goes away after 10-20 seconds of driving but something is wrong and the two times it quit in traffic really bother me.

I'd be willing to bet money it's either the EGR or a air in the fuel problem.

I've got about 18,500 miles on it and I bought the 7yr/100,000mi warranty, so I'm be we'll within both the 3/36 and the extended.

Bovie · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:28 am

Well it's back at the dealer. The service manager told me he is going to get the tech to drive the car home again to get a better idea of what is going on exactly. Is there any way to check the fuel filter head for leaks?

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:39 am

Bovie wrote:

Well it's back at the dealer. The service manager told me he is going to get the tech to drive the car home again to get a better idea of what is going on exactly. Is there any way to check the fuel filter head for leaks?

Bleed all the air out of the filter head. Unplug the heater connection and pump the primer a couple times. If you have a leak it will at least drip from the connector. It may spray if the leak is bad enough.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

Bovie wrote:

Well it's back at the dealer. The service manager told me he is going to get the tech to drive the car home again to get a better idea of what is going on exactly. Is there any way to check the fuel filter head for leaks?

I think that your ACV is closing up some time, the flapper is steeking close and the engine starve for air and it shots off.
try and disconnect the maf sensor on the air filter and drive it to see if it happen, you will have a cod, but what it does is that it keep the valve open at all time. or disconnect the cat hose and let some body to fire off the engine and look if the vave close some time when the engine is running, if it does that is your problem.
I think that your ACV is acting up some time because is full of shoot. spray some cab cleaner around there and open and close the valve by hand until is smooth, that wll help a lot.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:42 am

The Flow Control Valve fails in the gearing. When mine died it was open and locked solid, but not from contaminants. Still, it would be worth looking at.

Bovie · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:43 pm

I might but be an idiot but that is the ACV valve? and where is it? pics?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:40 pm

Bovie wrote:

I might but be an idiot but that is the ACV valve? and where is it? pics?

By the discription I think he meant FCV (Flow Control Valve) :lol:

Bovie · **Posted:** Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:47 pm

So the dealership just called. They have been trying to diag it all week. They called Chrysler who was no help, then they started going down the list of anything that could cause the problem. They came to a coolant temp sensor that was reading all out of whack. They are waiting for the replacement part and will test again.

The CRD is back in the shop, Help with Diag = FIXED

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