any one use Royal Purple??

jeepzilla · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:28 pm

Hey guys, just wondering if any of you guys have tried Royal Purple oil in there kj's.. if so what are your thoughts on it...

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:34 pm

jeepzilla wrote:

Hey guys, just wondering if any of you guys have tried Royal Purple oil in there kj's.. if so what are your thoughts on it...

I use there gear oil,good stuff and haven't had any problems.I wouldn't recomend using the engine oil since it has a high moly content which is bad for our tighter tolerance engines.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 9:13 pm

MY HO, based on a tech paper by a third party, sponsored by Amsoil, is that their product isn't worth the extra price, especially their gear oils. You can do much better for cheaper just buying Castrol or Mobil gear oils. Of course I will say if you want the best of any oils/lubes, filters, just go straight to Amsoil products and don't look back.

jeepzilla · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 9:29 pm

i've only tried R.P once in a ram with a 4.7, I wasn't happy with how it performed. I was just curious to see how it worked in the 3.7.. I've always been a mobil1 guy, I did try amsoil motor oil once an was happy with it..

jason thompson · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:37 am

dont know about the 3.7 but Royal Purple is all I will run in my TJ 4.0
I got cooler temps on the trail ,I have no clue how but after the change you could see a slight drop in trail ride temp
better MPG ,maybe 1/2-3/4 mile on the gallon but it was still something
and it does not tap on cold start up any more
also it seems to run smother

I change it once a year or every 5k which ever comes first
also I get a wix filter to go with it
now if I drove the TJ daily I would not spend the money but for me the molly stuff that binds to the metal
is good because the TJ can sit for as long as 2 weeks and never get started

USPLibby · **Joined:** Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:29 am **Posts:** 377

I've used it in the past, good stuff. But the stores here just don't carry it so I usually just go with Mobile 1.

theBIGbCraig · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:28 pm **Posts:** 20

While I've never used RP, I have heard it is pretty good. Myself, I swear by amsoil and use it for every fluid but gas. My father and I have had great experience with amsoil; he's used it since about '90 and had never been dssipointed.

Without being overly biased, I will say that basically every synthetic will outperform a conventional oil, whether it's Castrol Synthetic Sucks, RP, or AMSOIL. My Libby with 48,000 miles hasveeb driven full throttle (I started driving it) about 50% of the time it's been running for the last 3,500 miles, with no problems or signs of wear. If you care aboutbyiyr car, I'd highly reccomend you syntheticize. While that doesnt answer your question, its my 2cents.

The straightforward answer, in my opinion, is that RP is probably better than what you've got in your jeep if you're asking this question, but for the cost, go with AMSOIL.

dloc_jeep_KJ · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:28 am

i use there gear oil as well. to bad the extra bottle i carry w/ me just dumped out everywhere

gear oil stinks

MP Jeeper · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 1:32 am

i used RP gear oil and motor oil for about a year. Quit using the motor oil when i read about the moly as TJKJ said. Performed just fine but moly builds up after years of use and i didn't want to take the chance. Really pleased w/their gear oil but swithced after reading several 3rd party reviews on motor oil performance. Every review i read had Amsoil products rated best and usually Mobile 1 second. Switched everything to amsoil when signed up as preferred customer.

Good luck!

hooperswish · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:32 am

In the forum "bobistheoilguy" several people have done uoa's (used oil analysis) which showed the rp motor oil tends to sheer down really quickly. It is good stuff, but I would not do extended drains with it. 3k intervals might be a little over kill, but it will keep you on the safe side....
BTW, if you have an '06 or earlier anyone, are you still going with the 5w30, or are you going with the 5w20 like the '07 and up 3.7's? As stated, this engine has tight clearances, so wouldn't the thinner stuff be better regardless of model year? :?:

PCT 1981 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:43 am

If people are going to make a statement as fact, it needs to be backed up with information. Will someone please post a link as to why moly is bad for a 3.7 engine.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:51 pm

As you may know, Royal Purple is well known in racing circles. The chemistry they use is something AMSOIL, Inc. chooses not to use in their oil formulation. One of Amsoil's big selling points is extended drain intervals, such as our 25,000 mile and 35,000 mile oil change intervals. Some additive chemicals may cause adverse conditions when used for long periods.

Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most oil producers. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Molybdenum Disulfide (Moly) in their oil formulations at these higher levels.

Moly is a processed mineral that is similar in appearance to graphite. Moly has good lubricating properties when used either by itself (in dry power form or as an additive to oil or other lubricants). Particles of the Moly can come out of suspension and agglomerate. Over time this may actually clog or partially clog oil filters or oil lines and the remainder normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. This seems to be more likely when using extended drain intervals. The only test we ran on Royal Purple involved their 20W50 Racing oil versus our AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W50 Racing Oil (TRO). We ran two 4 ball wear tests with different parameters, a spectrographic baseline, FTIR scan and volatility tests. The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to the AMSOIL TRO with only a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the AMSOIL TRO left a .41mm scar and the Royal Purple oil left a .66mm scar. The lower the scare damage number the better! There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index. The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures.

Note: This information was provided by AMSOIL, Inc. Tech Department. An independent lab tested the Royal Purple 20W-50 racing oil against the AMSOIL 20W-50 racing oil. Test results found Moly in the Royal Purple oil sample.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:53 pm

If you are planning to take an oil analysis, then run any oil you want so you can monitor it’s performance. If you are not going to monitor your engine oil by an Oil Analysis, then I would stick with low mileage intervals never exceeding 3,000 miles. I change my oil based on an oil analysis, therefore it saves me time and money. I may go 15,000 miles or more before needing to change my oil. It is true, used Amsoil at 10,000 miles might actually be in better condition than Mopar oil at 3,000 miles. In my 07 KJ, I run 0W20 as recommended by Amsoil. I also average 23 mpg on the highway. I can honestly say that I am “seeing” good results based on data collection with using Amsoil. I will continue to use their products, save money, and prolong the life of the engine, transmission, and gears all at the same time. As far as the Molybdenum Disulfide additive is concerned, just stay with short intervals and you will be fine.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:08 pm

Gear oil reading w/ RP results inside.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlube ... Paper.aspx

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:25 pm

Cummins Engine Oil Recommendations Bulletin No. 3810340-02.
On page 7 it has a section on FRICTION MODIFIERS and states:

There is firm evidence that certain friction modifiers, including (moly) for example, can in certain cause formulations and result in cam follower pin failure at relatively low mileage. Molybdenum compounds in motor oils can degrade and cause bearing corrosion and is particularly aggressive towards copper. In almost all cases, any engine oil formula having "moly" will also contain a Copper Deactivator which will protect bearings from the moly compounds. The only problem, the copper deactivator decomposes at relatively low temperatures and looses it's potency after a few thousand miles.

PCT 1981 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:09 pm

Thanks for the replies. I only asked because I have been running Redline oil since new. I am getting due for my next oil change and will run a UOA and see how it looks. At the oil forum I go to I have not heard of the moly issue.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:55 pm

My 2007 only calls for a different grade of oil due to the change in the all temp.

hooperswish · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:52 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

My 2007 only calls for a different grade of oil due to the change in the all temp.

So I guess going with 5w20 would be fine for '06 and back that are spec'ed for 5w30? Warranty issues maybe? I would love to go with amsoil 0w20 as well, but that just SOUNDS too thin. 23 mpg sure sounds good though...

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:18 pm

hooperswish wrote:

dieselenthusiast wrote:

My 2007 only calls for a different grade of oil due to the change in the all temp.

So I guess going with 5w20 would be fine for '06 and back that are spec'ed for 5w30? Warranty issues maybe? I would love to go with amsoil 0w20 as well, but that just SOUNDS too thin. 23 mpg sure sounds good though...

2002-2006 KJ Amsoil 0W-30 or 5W-30, 5W30 XL
2007 KJ Amsoil 0W20, 5W20, or 0W30 (technically, it is okay to run the Amsoil 5W-30 in the 2007/2008 models.)

jeepzilla · **Posted:** Sun Mar 16, 2008 3:27 pm

hey guys just wanted to update this post with my findings so far.. I went with amsoil, an I have to say I'm sorry I did so far.. I lost 1.2 MPG's when I switched... went from 17.3 with mobil 1 down to 16.1 with amsoil.. combined city/highway... I drove the kj 500 miles before I did the check..
Here's how I got my findings... I filled up the tank an zerod out the trip OD.. ran the tank down to about 1/8th tank, then filled the tank again.. I took the milage from the trip OD an divided it by the number of gallons it took to fill the tank again... I did this with both oils. I know thats probably old info on how to find out MPG's but for those who don't know an to answer the question on how I figured it out... I'll drive for another tank or two an check milage again, I'm hopping it gets better with time or I'll be switching back to Mobil 1..

any one use Royal Purple??

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