Idea and Title by DarbyWalters...
Write Up by oldnavy...
Thanx to OldNavy for taking the time to gather all this info
^(1% inspiration)^......................^(99% persperation)^
This Thread will be CLEANED every few days so try to keep it relevant
CCV/Pressure Regulator:
What we call CCV, D/C calls a Pressure Regulator and serves to vent the engine blow-by gases into the intake for burning thus reducing emissions from the engine. This unit is also a pressure regulator to help ensure that turbo pressure does not over come the venting process. The problem with this idea is that there is little to no back pressue to the CCV, the hose is plumbed to the intake side of the turbo just down from the air cleaner and has a very small negative pressure or sucsion on the vent hose. The design of the PR is to also act as an oil catch and drain back system that will keep oil from the intake CAC (Charged Air Cooler, also called InterCooler) system. We are all witness to the sucess of this system. All that would have been required is to have left out the pressure valve and made a filter assembly about the same size with drain back to engine.
My knowledge of this type of CCV/PR system is from experience with VW TDI diesel engines and designing, building and selling a filter unit for the VW that was and is still a sucess, with 2 or 3 people contacting me monthly for a filter for their VW. Here is a link to Old Navy CCV filter
http://www.stancomachine.com/CCV.htm with picture of the filter I designed and had built by local shop and with pictures of the OEM CCV or PR as VW also calls the device.
Now for the Elephant Hose Mod:
This is the Elephant Hose Mod at time of install.
This is after about 300 miles of mainly around town driving. I am sure that most will agree that this does not need to be in the CAC system.
INSTRUCTIONS: Remove the engine cover by unscrewing the Oil Cap first. Then the Engine Cover will just pull off by pulling up the front first and then the back. There will be four rubber mounts...make sure that any of the rubber plugs that remain on the posts are placed back on the Engine Cover. Next remove the hose from the CCV...it will just pull off. Plug the hose you pulled off and zip tie it near the winshield washer resevoir. Now attach your clear 4FT Long 3/4" ID hose to the CCV and run the hose to the driver side of the engine and down toward the ground. Zip Tie it along the way to keep it secure. You can also Zip Tie or Hose Clamp the Clear Hose on the CCV but not too tight. Pop the engine cover back on and screw on the oil cap...YOU ARE DONE! If you want to add a catch bottle at the end of the EMH, you can to catch any oil that might drip after collecting in the hose. It should not be a very big amount at all.
WARNING: This mod modifies your emmision controls and will cause it to fail Vehicle Inspection Requirements. Specifically it defeats the Crankcase Gas Recirculation function. Until a fix is found for the problems discussed above, it is a way to avoid some CCV/EGR/PR problems.
Provent Filter Mod:
Above is the Provent installed on another member's CRD. Notice as to how this set-up is shoe horned in and has a very hard to rig hose connecting system for the average person. This is a very good system and works great, the problem is it has to be maintained (not too much trouble) cost $140 to $200 depending on where you buy the filter and how much waste you have with the plumbing materials.
The downside is this unit was known to freeze up on VW TDI owners, as has the Elephant Hose Mod, when a lot of ice and snow on low ground clearance cars get splached on hoses or filter (depending on where mounted, VW's had room problem also) and when the moisture that comes out from short trips usage freezes up in hoses and or filter, as it will in a CRD under those conditions. Those who had this problem were people who just drove a short distance to work and parked the vehicle for the day in sub freezing weather. Then on return trip home same thing happens, but this time the drive doen't thaw all the moisture and blow it out so it freezes again during the night and after a few days of this it freezes up. When the venting is closed off it has caused seal failure and big repair bills. This can be easly avoided by letting the engine run enough to get moisture out of the crank case/oil system and regular checking the devices in the winter or parking in a heated garage as we do.
EGR & EGR Flow Control Valve:
Below is a picture from the FSC (Factory Sevice Manual) showing the location of the EGR & EGR FCV on the driver side of the vehicle.
The EGR FCV (also called a anti shudder valve) is located on the mouth of the intake manifold with the CAC hose connected to the EGR FCV. The FLV surves only one purpose and that is to ease in the shut down of the engine when you turn the key off, it also helps to prevent or lessen the effect of a diesel runaway engine. This runaway can happen if the turbo seals blow, you were to break a piston ring, or blow a hole in the top of a piston. Again as I said this FCV serves a dual purpose but most of use will only relate to the smooth shut down it provides the diesel engine.
The EGR is totally different beast and is not really related to the FCV/Anti shudder valve. The EGR valve is the main emissions control component in the exhaust gas recirculation system. The valve is located on the intake manifold, and opens a small passageway between the exhaust and intake manifold to allow a metered amount of exhaust to flow back into the engine. This reduces combustion temperatures and helps control the formation of oxides of nitrogen. The EGR valve is opened by an electronic solenoid on the CRD, while some mfg's use vacuum to operate the EGR. The valve should remain closed while the engine is cold and warming up, at idle or at full throttle. It should only open once the engine has warmed up and is running at part-throttle. If the valve sticks shut (or is disconnected), NOX emissions will soar but have little effect on the running of the diesel. If it sticks in the open position or fails to close all the way, it acts like a vacuum leak resulting in a rough idle, hesitation and possible stalling.
High EGR flow is required during cruising and mid range operation.
Low EGR flow is required during light loads and low speed operation.
No EGR flow is required for Idle, warm up and wide open throttle.
This is why the people who drove the VW TDI's at low rpm's or as some would say babied the engine for mileage had the manifolds clog up rather quickly (20k to 30k miles) and those who did regular full throttle runs or as some called it "drove it like they stole it" had far longer periods between intake cleaning, often getting 2 to 3 times the miles on car before the cleaning was needed. In otherwords when we cruise down the road at 68 to 70 mph trying to get max mpg's we soot the engine up the worst that at any other time.