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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:31 pm 
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longview wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
SBosco wrote:
All great information and advice. Thanks guys.

Hearing about how much of a pain the rear diff sounds like, provokes a thought...does anybody make a diff cover with a drain plug? I don't know much about the type or model of the rear diff but could probably find one if I did.

Also, I have heard great things about both Redline and Royal Purple products. I have wholesale access to both product lines and was wondering which you guys would reccomend; they both exceed the API GL-5 rating of the mobil 1 gear oil.


Read this:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlube ... Paper.aspx

You would be better off w/ several different brands over those two but between the two, Redline is better than RP for gear oils.


Asking people to recommend an oil is like asking who you should vote for in some elected office.
If you have a brand you trust - use it.
I like Red Line and have used it successfully. I know nothing good or bad about AMSOIL (though my dad has drank the kool-aid), nor Royal Purple. I have heard good and bad things about all 3.


Did your dad also wear the white tennies too? 8) :lol:

I was a user of Redline products before Returning to Amsoil and never had any problems w/ it. I do notice a cooler running 4.0L in my XJ w/ Amsoil products and both my Jeeps showed slight improvements in mileage after switching too. I now run extended drain intervals and Trust that I am running one of if not The best oil products on the market. Sure I am a dealer so I am biased but I was Biased before becoming a dealer anyway when I saw the improvements in my vehicles. I don't make enough off this "hobby" so I don't care what anyone runs and I am sure everyone will be just fine w/ whatever they choose. If you would like more info or a quote, LMK, if not thats cool too.
My point of showing the testing results was to show that just because it is RP or Redline does not mean it is any better than some of the cheaper brands on the market like Castrol or Mobil 1 gear oil. Why buy the Rp or Redline if you can get better overall performance from Castrol gear oil?

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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:39 pm 
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JJsKJ,
I think it is cool you let the folks here order from you at your cost.
You also seem to have experience with different oil brands, which make you more qualified to recommend than most (including me). I was just trying to warn that asking for oil recommendations can quickly turn a forum post upside down.

SBosco,
If you like working on your own machine, I think you would be well suited to save yourself lots of $$ and doing it yourself.
It took me maybe 3 hours total to do both diffs and the transfer case. I am certainly no mechanic, so the average guy could probably make much better time.

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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 11:05 pm 
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CATCRD wrote:
Neither one is locking. Limited slip was an option on the rear for 05 only.


1st question...
How do I know if I have a limited slip rear?

2nd...
What happens in "Part Time 4x4?"

Here is why...
In "Full Time 4wd" (aka AWD) the transfer case is engaged but front and
rear axles are not necessarily locked together.
If the rear has a limited slip, the front an open diff, then everything acts
like 3wd (sorta).

So what happens in "Part Time 4wd?"
My experience with earlier Jeeps (and other 4wd's) tells me that this is
when the front axle is fully locked. Usually via vaccum but there are other
methods too.
If the rear axle is "open" then this would be like 3wd.
But, if the rear axle is a locker (or limited slip) then it should act like 4wd.

Are you catching my drift?

So, I guess what I'm really drivin' at, is which axle needs the special additive?

Is it only the one with clutches/cones?
Or is it the the one that is vacuum/electrical/mechanically actuated?

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:27 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
1st question...
How do I know if I have a limited slip rear?

My experience with earlier Jeeps (and other 4wd's) tells me that this is
when the front axle is fully locked. Usually via vaccum but there are other
methods too.

So, I guess what I'm really drivin' at, is which axle needs the special additive?


First. get a build sheet of your vehicle so you'll know IF you have a limited slip :wink: (Dealer's part's department with your VIN)

What you saw on your "earlier" jeeps is a vacuum disconnect on the front axel and it is NOT a LOCKING feature. It allows the front axel to be mostly disconnected when in 2 wheel drive :lol:
Finally IF you have a limited slip rear then ONLY the rear needs a additive :D

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 11:27 am 
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Hmmm, I'm torn between the Ruff Stuff and the PML. What do you guys think? I only go off-roading every once in a while so I'm thinking that the finned aluminum PML with more capacity would dissipate heat better for most of my driving.

Any comments about the Redline versus Royal Purple?

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:42 pm 
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SBosco wrote:
Hmmm, I'm torn between the Ruff Stuff and the PML. What do you guys think? I only go off-roading every once in a while so I'm thinking that the finned aluminum PML with more capacity would dissipate heat better for most of my driving.

Any comments about the Redline versus Royal Purple?


Sounds like the PML would be best overall for Your situation. Read the post I made w/ the gear oil testing and it will show the Redline testing Better than RP. If you have access to both and I am sure they are similarily priced, get the Redline lube.

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:22 pm 
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How much will filling up with AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR® (75W-110) cost me? I like the option of an intermediate viscosity gear oil incase of occaisional towing. Is it cheaper if I buy it from you in bulk?

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-Custom intake (pre-turbo)
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 6:31 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:

1st question...
How do I know if I have a limited slip rear?



Like Joe said, it will say Trak-Lok on your build sheet or window sticker. If so, you should use the limited slip additive in the rear. Some quality oils have this built in, and will say so on the label.

flash7210 wrote:
What happens in "Part Time 4x4?"

Here is why...
In "Full Time 4wd" (aka AWD) the transfer case is engaged but front and
rear axles are not necessarily locked together.
If the rear has a limited slip, the front an open diff, then everything acts
like 3wd (sorta).



Correct, only I would say the front and rear driveshafts are not locked together. Even with limited slip, you could still be driving only one wheel if that one is on a really slick spot.

flash7210 wrote:
My experience with earlier Jeeps (and other 4wd's) tells me that this is
when the front axle is fully locked. Usually via vaccum but there are other
methods too.


The front diff is never locked, if that's what you mean. Part-time means the front and rear driveshafts are locked together. So you'll be driving at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel even in very slick conditions.

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PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 7:27 pm 
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OK, got it.
Thanks guys.

I must be confused with another vehicle but i thought the Liberty had that
feature. :oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 8:25 pm 
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SBosco wrote:
How much will filling up with AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR® (75W-110) cost me? I like the option of an intermediate viscosity gear oil incase of occaisional towing. Is it cheaper if I buy it from you in bulk?


PM sent. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:27 pm 
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hatchetman: how do you like the stryker module? I am considering getting one.

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-Texon Hi/Low HID w/Philips Ballasts
-17" Jeep Oasis wheels
-245/65/17 Destination A/Ts
-PML Alum. Diff. Cvr.
-Custom intake (pre-turbo)
-Custom Sound System w/fully damped interior
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 2:34 pm 
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It's giving me about 28 mpg in combined driving in E or 1 mode. Mode 1 gives a slight kick in the pants feel when you get on it. I'm driving the elantra now though cause it gets 37-38 mpg and has XM radio which is really nice for the 74 miles round-trip for work.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:36 pm 
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I did the front and rear differential service about a week ago and installed the aluminum PML diff cover, and skid row engine/front skid plate. I was amazed about how much metal particles accumulated on the internal magnet within the rear diff at only 27k miles. Anyway, since I filled up with synthetic Amsoil SevereGear, the PML cover is aluminum and dissipates heat better, has a magnetic drain plug (aside from the factory internal one), and with the extra capacity (.7 L) I am going to change the fluid in 50k mi intervals from now on.

I'm glad to say that the liberty now definitely rolls/coasts noticeably better.

Only thing that should be noted was that the torque specs vary between the lubelocker gasket and the PML cover reccomended specs. Lubelocker reccomended 30 ft/lbs where PML cover said 15 ft/lbs. I figured that since the cover anticipated the use of RTV, low torque should be used so as not to squeeze out all of the RTV. So, I torqued it to 30 ft/lbs and the hex bolts supplied with the cover held the torque fine and no leaks to date :-)

BTW, special thanks to JJsKJ for all of the help with the AMSoil.

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'06 CRD Limited, Jeep Green
-Texon Hi/Low HID w/Philips Ballasts
-17" Jeep Oasis wheels
-245/65/17 Destination A/Ts
-PML Alum. Diff. Cvr.
-Custom intake (pre-turbo)
-Custom Sound System w/fully damped interior
-MBRP Stnls Exhaust
Works in Progress:
-Boost and EGT A-Pillar gauges
-Painless Striker I


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