Oil in charge Pipe

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2008 1:02 am

So I was doing some work the CRD the other day and had to take off the charge pipe from my intercooler to the throttle body. I was expecting it to be a little oil, but when I had it off and actually looked, it was caked in oil. My other car that is turbo'ed does not even come close to looking like that.

Is this normal for a CRD or do I have an issue some where. I bought my CRD with 12 miles on it in '05 and have worked the thing fairly hard but have always mantained it well. I have managed to keep most everything stock minus the lift but now that my other car in done, I am really thinking about throwing some mods on her.

Thanks in advance

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

If you don't have the Provent or the Elephant Hose mod this is normal. Check out CRD tech section. The closed crankcase ventilates back into the intake. Unfortunately, it does not stop all the oil and it blows right back in. If you have the EGR operating it creates an oily caked mess on the top end of your motor-- which plugs your MAP sensor and reduces fuel mileage. Also the turbo hoses will get soft and blow out on you eventually (from soaking up all the oil).

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Mon May 26, 2008 1:41 am

I will check out the tech section so I can get this fixed. I can not amagine that the intercooler is working efficiently either now.

I originally pulled the hose off to get to the # 2 glow plug because I had a cel and DC told me that was the cylinder. I pulled the plug and it was cracked. My cel light is still on so I have to scan the ecu again and figure it out. My hose clamps come loose often and do blow off on ocasion recently. I think it is about time to fab up some stainless or aluminum charge pipes and upgrade the clamps.

I have another incooler that was suppose to go into my other car but I am thinking about installing it in the KJ. I would def need to do the mods suggested above first though.

Here is the link for my intercooler I have now. I run one on my turbo'ed focus and its great. This one just ended up being a little too big for where I need to place it. I would just need to buy another heat exchanger for the liquid. I am sure there would be plenty of room once the air to air is gone.
http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

I had a shop swap out the hoses for pipes too. Good investment as the dealer wants to rape you for the hoses. I would just clean the inner cooler. It is pretty beefy stock. But if you already have another one, then knock yourself out. No harm seeing if it can help.

FYI the S E G R offroad mod will lower your intake temps around 35-50 degrees and I think it is around $75 or so.

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:41 pm

So the jeep has been sitting for a while since it has had several problems, but I finally going to get all this sorted out. I am ordering tubing tomorrow to make some nice charge tubes. I will be posting up pics soon.

cerich · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:13 pm

some 05's the ecu had the glow plugs messed up,. like it would say bad #2 but it was actually a different plug. There are som ethreads here on it

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:57 pm

I just checked all 4 glow plugs and they all visually looked good. The last plug I replaced was cracked but I did not see anything out of the norm this time around. I did however discover a few interesting headaches as you can see to the pics below. I need to solve these problems asap seeing that its winter now and the track car is going to get me very far in the snow.

Elbow off the intake manifold.

Hungry anyone? This is nothing compared to what is still in there.

As she sits now

By the way, is anyone interested in charge tubes. I will be making at least one set but if anyone is interested, I would make more for little profit. Here is an example of my work. This is the last turbo I did (hot side)

I know there are sponsors on here but I figured I would throw it out there.

Glend · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:35 pm

The current hoses run from engine mounted components to frame mounted components (intercooler in and out). The movement of the engine is a fact of physics and the motor mounts contain a lot of this but there is still an inherent twist of torque. I would think that these Turbo hoses must be made out of flexible materials to handle the movement of the engine. How do metal hoses compensate? Is there a rubber collar of some kind at the intercooler joint end?

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:46 pm

Glend wrote:

The current hoses run from engine mounted components to frame mounted components (intercooler in and out). The movement of the engine is a fact of physics and the motor mounts contain a lot of this but there is still an inherent twist of torque. I would think that these Turbo hoses must be made out of flexible materials to handle the movement of the engine. How do metal hoses compensate? Is there a rubber collar of some kind at the intercooler joint end?

4ply silicone couplers connect the hard lines to the components and do allow for motor movement. The aluminum tubes also get bead rolled to prevent charge pipes from blowing. Here is a link a MAF TUBE I make for the focus. It will allow you to see the bead rolled ends

http://htperformance.net/components/com ... 12beec.jpg

The MAF flange that is welded on there also works for the CRD, I am working on the other flange for the air inlet preasure sensor to perhaps make an air intake system, but not sure yet.

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:49 am

I got pretty busy last week so I didnt get around to finish taking off the valve cover until tonight. Well, its off now and I can not even begin to stress how much crudd is in the plenum. I am sure I have lost more than a few cubic inches of volume in there due to the build up. I will get some pics tomorrow and from I can plan a course of action

If anyone has an SEGR they want to sell, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

Also, there is a plug on the egr cooler, if I unplug that in order to delete the whole system, will the SEGR take care of fooling the computer into thinking it is still there? Basically, will there be any adverse affects?

Thanks,

Jason

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 11, 2008 6:45 pm

The plug you are referring to is the EGR valve and by disconnecting it you'll set a fault that the SEGR isn't capable to clear.

Using the SEGR disables the EGR by means of the mass air flow sensor and is a much more robust solution than just disconnecting the EGR valve and staring at the light.

In reference to your post, are you saying that you removed the timing belt and have then removed the cam cover/valve cover? or have you just removed the elbow off of the cam cover. It is normal for this generation engine to have those deposits in there and there haven't been (knock on wood) too many issues because of it. You will get much better benefit:cost and benefit:time by just removing the boost pressure sensor and keeping it clean as opposed to taking the engine apart.

As for cleaning it, drop it in a parts washer or soak it in a large pail of carb cleaner for a few days, rinse it good and you should be good to go.

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 11, 2008 11:46 pm

Yes, I removed the cover completley in order to fully clean it. I have have removed a great deal of solid build up and I can not see how that can be good for the motor and its efficientcy. The exhaust manifold is going to be plugged and the egr tube and I hoped to remove the entire system. Will the motor still run if the egr is unplugged or will it throw the computer into a "limp" mode and shut down? If it is just going to throw a light, than I can deal with it for now and figure some thing out in the near future. It may even be possible to have a tuner re-tune the ecu and to shut that code down.

I want to clean and do this right the first time around is basically what it comes down to.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:56 am

HugeKJ05 wrote:

Yes, I removed the cover completley in order to fully clean it. I have have removed a great deal of solid build up and I can not see how that can be good for the motor and its efficientcy. The exhaust manifold is going to be plugged and the egr tube and I hoped to remove the entire system. Will the motor still run if the egr is unplugged or will it throw the computer into a "limp" mode and shut down? If it is just going to throw a light, than I can deal with it for now and figure some thing out in the near future. It may even be possible to have a tuner re-tune the ecu and to shut that code down.

I want to clean and do this right the first time around is basically what it comes down to.

It will not go into limp if the EGR is blocked. Some here have been able to add a blocking plate to the EGR and remove the flapper from the FCV and the engine wont throw a code but others get a CEL from it. Those without the CEL also have Inmotion stage 2 tunes.

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:23 am

Inmotion stage 2 will not get rid of a p0401 aka Insufficient EGR Flow as in egr plate and fcv butterfly.

Supposedly Kerma Tuning will.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 2:04 am

CRDMiller wrote:

Inmotion stage 2 will not get rid of a p0401 aka Insufficient EGR Flow as in egr plate and fcv butterfly.

Supposedly Kerma Tuning will.

oops, my mistake.

mackruss · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:18 am

CRDMiller wrote:

Inmotion stage 2 will not get rid of a p0401 aka Insufficient EGR Flow as in egr plate and fcv butterfly.

Supposedly Kerma Tuning will.

We have a member with a Kerma tune, blocked EGR and butterfly removed from the FCV and no CEL. If MTB logs on and reads this post he will probably advise you.

I was fortunate in not getting a CEL when i blocked my EGR and without a Kerma tune but then the export models seem to be programmed differently, something i'm still researching at the moment.

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:40 am

All this info is a great help. I am going to work on the jeep today since we have had a really bad ice storm and I spun my Focus out last night on the way home. I guess that is what I get what you run a car with track tires on it in the snow and ice.

So its alot of nasty cleaning today and then i think i will remove the egr system in its entirety. As for the plug on the egr vavle, I spole with one of my friend for North Eastern Uni. and had told him that this unit is going to either see a voltage, a restince or a frequency back for the component. I asked him if we could make a module to trick the comp and he said its duable, just bring the vavle to NEU and some students will figure out the solution.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:05 pm

That's what the SEGR does - send LocoCRD or UFO a pm - they might have an extra or at least get you on the next group.

and if you give a constant signal - the computer will adjust and give an error - you have to have a modulating signal.
This was in the original thread - which I'm now getting errors trying to find - (will update if I find it)

HugeKJ05 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:19 pm

^^^So you are saying if unplug the MAF, install the SEGR, then I can uninstall the egr valve so it obviously will be unplugged, I may have a chance that no code will pop up?

By the end of today, the whole thing will be off the jeep for good!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:26 pm

I couldn't find the original Thread - I did find the link to TurboTim's diagram

http://picasaweb.google.com/Turbo4tim/Ckt#

I believe the EGR can be gone, but I haven't done that - Tim kept the Flow Control Valve to help on shutdown.

I don't know anyone who's physically removed the EGR - most just block it off -
and Export models appear to not have problems with the EGR blocked off and the FCV butterfly gone -
US models get a Check Engine Light

Oil in charge Pipe

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