I was wondering what everyone thought of the CCV going into the exhaust system. I google'd it and found the pics of a guy who did it on a powerstroke.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/75668541IJEooH

Here is the kit that will need to be welded onto the exhaust...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

I think that it would be a more economical solution than a provent and more driveway friendly than the EHM.

Should it be mounted as close to the exhaust manifold as possible or further down the system?

Would it clog or foul the cat or muffler?

Do you think that off the ccv a 90 degree angle up then across and down would prevent the oil seeping down into the exhaust?

Thanks in advance for everyone's opinions. Just trying to come up with something better and cheaper for us...

There was some discussion of this. I think it was dropped because someone (I think it was gmctd) pointed out that the pressure in the exhaust was typically higher than the pressure at the CCV. reverse pressure, no vent. The check valve in the kit is a good idea, but if the exhaust is holding the check valve closed most of the time it defeats the purpose. Going without a check valve would mean pressurizing the CCV, not a good thing.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

So the belief is that the exhaust will flow so fast that it will "suck" through the ccv? Is the ccv always open or does it open and close as needed?

The CCV valve maintains a small amount of pressure in the engine block. If you were to change that you could blow seals if too much pressure and possibly suck oil out if it was too high

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

We are not changing what the CCV is doing or how much pressure it maintains, just routing where it goes... right?

Reverse pressure into the crankcase. The CCV has no valve in it. Anything that is higher pressure than the crankcase (which shouldn't have that much pressure anyway) will force the gook back into the top of the engine, and then add more pressure. Not a good thing.

Exactly the opposite, The exhaust wont suck at all, the exhaust would be pressurizing the CCV.

If the kit you specified sets up a venturi or something like that then it could be creating a vacuum, but then you run into the problem of the oil clogging the venturi, stopping the vacuum. You would need a diverter or similiar to vent off if the bung to the exhaust was clogged.

Might be possible, just need to make sure the case can vent no matter what.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

What's expensive about a Provent type solution? I made a piece out of PVC and a stainless scrubber, it filters the liquid and passes the vapor into the intake. Total cost about $30.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Do the international liberty diesels use the same CCV that we use or is it different? Any intl. owners please respond...

Same in Australia.

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05 CRD Renegade

Same in Denmark.

You want to do the oil catch tank mod. It's easy and you'll thank yourself for doing it when you do your next oil change and empty the container in the oil catch tank. I collected ½ liter (~½ quart) of oil in my oil catch tank over 8,000kms.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

This may have been covered in another post but... what about putting a T connector in the CCV hose and running a catchcan towards the ground and running the other end to the normal location. OR will just putting a piece of steel wool in the stock hose right next to CCV on the engine keep oil out of the intake?

Would i need a "filter" and if so where would i put it? Would it be after the T connector close to the intake?

Thanks for the help and all the information everyone.

I think the reason the factory unit is so inadequate is because the oil vapor is carried with the blowby. You need a barrier in the flow that will condense the oil vapor and allow it to drain from the air flow. I basically ran the crankcase vent into the side of a section of PVC full of stainless steel scrubber, and ran the top out into the intake. The bottom drains into a tube with a valve on the end, and I drained about a cup after a 5k oil change.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Do you have any pictures??

No I don't. But it's similar to, just a bit smaller than what "TDIWagonGuy" offers. It's a 2" PVC T stuffed with stainless mesh, and plastic barb fittings connected to 3/4" heater hose. The bottom drain is 2 feet of 1/2" vinyl with a cheap ball valve at the end. It is tucked out of the way of the exhaust.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

Im trying to design more of an 'inline' system and am looking for some insight/opinions....

A few inches off the CCV hose i want to run a 90 degree fitting up towards the hood in an effort to keep most of the oil in the case. Then have a filtering unit taking care of the vapors before they make it to the intake.

Do you all think that the right angle will keep most of the oil in the case?

In short: no.................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go