..of the radiator is lower than the top of the core, take a look. In a pristine fairy tail world where all theory works, you can bleed the air out once and never need to do it again until you change the coolant. With all due respect, I converted an air cooled VW bus to a water cooled VW Turbo Diesel over 18 years ago and put a bleeder on the top of the radiator tank. I did use it to when I changed coolant and I also bleed out the air that would collect in the cooling system. This old conversion I did also had an air bleeder on the neck going into the cylinder head to send bubbles back to the fill tank.
To make the point again, the bean counters are more bound by the all mighty dollar than the laws of physics
Wally3430 may be able to solve his problem by opening a bleed port on the top of the radiator tank, fix, and keep his CRD.
Making the ASSSumption that dealers obsessed with cranking out the money have the common sense to see beyond the OBII scanner out put, defies logic.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Restricted exhaust results in overheating, moreso on a Diesel engine: that wimpy 2.5L gasser (patooie!) muffler is totally unsuitable in this application, or\and maybe plugged soot trap - that can be cleaned by 30min jaunt at hiway speeds, which cremates the trapped soot accumulation from long periods of city-driving - aftermarket is only cure for that 35gal barrel of a misapplied muffler, tho - an owner-installed EGT guage would prove that out

Also, make sure the viscous coolant heater clutch is not engaging, which will really heat the coolant.

210degF is not too hot for a Diesel engine (the aluminum head is secured by 6 bolts per cylinder, so not much chance of it warping) if the coolant system is functional, and one member just posted that coolant temps drop rapidly when the t-stat opens and the fan clutch engages, which is the normal result, particularly with an aluminum head - you should hear an increase in the roar as the clutch engages, then another increase if the t-switch for the aux electric fan cuts in as coolant temps continue rising - you can bypass that with a manual switch, installed in the cabin, to gain aux cooling on demand - system operates as normal when the switch is off

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

gmctd, for my own knowledge, are you saying it's not as "bad" if a diesel engine runs high up on the coolant gauge as with a gasoline engine? My experience with gasoline motors is that running real hot is when things like head gaskets tend to give it up.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Diesel engines usually have 6 head bolts per cylinder (ours does) - gassers (patooie!) usually have only 4 per = warp city if their coolant is any warmer than tepid - that was the big failure of the Olds 5.7 Diesel, only 4\cyl, like their 5.7 gasser (you know!) counterpart.

The potential problem with 210deg Engine Coolant Temp is that water boils just above that at sea level, lower than that at higher elevations, which means the coolant system must be in primo shape to handle the temps: radiator clean\uncorroded, fins clear, antifreeze mix at proper ratio and ph, radiator cap at ~16psi, hoses fresh and live to contain operating pressure, correct drive belt tension, viscous fan-clutch operational to spec, unobstructed airflow path: lights\bumpers\winches\deer\pedestrians\etc

More later - this forum keeps dumping me off and requiring me to sign in after about ~15mins to post reply - just lost an entire comprehensive dissertation on EGT and ECT and the critical relationship, thereof

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Be aware, my friend, that (1) the purpose of EGR is to COOL the combustion temperature, so doing this mod will actually raise the engine temperature, and (2) doing the orm mod is highly illegal, and if caught, subject to hefty fines.

Very true, which is where the EGT guage becomes even more important - unstifled by spent gasses, increased BTU output can easily result in damaging EGT's, where the driver has assumed even greater control but no more awareness

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Hi to all my 05 crd with 69873 miles has this issue to i was reading the a/c would shut off if over heating occures this has never happened and another thing the motor makes no special or diffrent noise eather the little indicator just goes to the middle stops and then starts to climb to the hot side has anyone solved this at all yet

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2005 crd
2002 mitsubishi l200 2.5 tdi
1987 suzuki samurai

Last year, I switched to Evans waterless coolant in my Suburban - which has a cummins 5.9L diesel transplant (replaces 454CID gasser - patooie! )

Nice thing about the Evans coolant is that it's boiling temp is higher, so you don't get the cascade boiling you see with water-based coolants (cascade meaning, once the bubbles start forming the cooling capacity drops rapidly, which accelerate heating what's left, which breaks down faster, all of which means that once it starts things boil in a hurry!).

Boiling temp is something like 375F (at ZERO psi!) - so you can typically go safely to whatever temp your OIL can withstand before breaking down - perhaps 325F-350F if you're running synthetic? I run the lowest pressure cap I can find so any leftover water vents out the overflow.

At any rate - the main benefit I see is that you can safely handle the excursions in temp seen when cresting a hill towing without having to slow down, pull over, overheat, etc. Of course, your tranny could be another matter.

I put a Flex-a-lite #284 (6,000cfm dual 15" electric fans for Duramax) behind the radiator, which is a 2G dodge ram radiator for the cummins.

Works like a champ, and doesn't leave the thermostat opening-point until I'm dragging a trailer over the pass - and then it never goes as high as the 454 did... love it.

All of this to say, if you're concerned that your cooling system is on the edge - the Evans coolant may get you pass the bumps without boiling over.

Here's the info from Evan's website on the product I use:


--- begin, from Evans website ---

http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant is the recommended coolant for all gasoline and diesel engines. NPG+ is a stand-alone lifetime coolant that does not freeze, or boil over. NPG+ controls detonation, cavitation, and is non-corrosive. Installing NPG+ requires the radiator, engine block and heater core to be drained completely and then filled 100% with NPG+. NPG+ meets or exceeds both the ASTM D 1384 corrosion test and the ASTM D 3306-94 specifications.

Boils 375°F @ 0 psi
Freezes -40°F
Viscosity 2.3cp @ 212°F
Surface Tension 44dyn/cm

$32.50 per Gallon
---- end ----

BTW - I don't sell the stuff, own the stock, etc. etc...

Mark
-

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

1. Do the orm in the winter and see which way heats up your engine to temp faster.
2. Yes, it's illeagal. That's why it's called "Offroad Modification" or ORM for short.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

I don’t think that or any other stuff will help with the CRD overheating. The reason is the engine water temperature sensor still reports the temperature of the water to the engine computer. Even though you have changed the boiling point, the computer doesn’t know that.
My CRD when the temp gauge gets pegged, it starts “Dinging” at me, like the seat belt warning. I have learned that after 3 or 4 “Dings”, the computer takes over and it is just like you took your foot off the go-pedal. It doesn’t care if you have your foot in it or not, passing a semi truck, life or death, it WILL pull the throttle for you. You WILL now only go 35 MPH, Period!

Someone mentioned that this might also be caused by the temperature of the fuel coming in being too high.
I hope to go for a test ride again only this time with my AutoEnginuity for my laptop running taking some data. I’ll post what I find, but for now it seems like a bigger radiator is needed.

onethehunt is right. Most people think that EGR is supposed to lower combustion temps, but that's not being very specific. It's supposed to lower peak combustion temps that occur in microscopic areas, by introducing an inert gas - a punching bag for other molecules, so to speak. It's not even relevant really, since EGR is used at low loads only, not when climbing a long grade at high load. In our application, most of the increase in warmup time is because our EGR is normally cooled by engine coolant, so the heat that would otherwise be dumped into your coolant system goes out the tailpipe instead when running the ORM.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I have had this damnable overheating problem too and have mentioned it on this forum a couple of times. As usual, the dealer shrugs their shoulders and can't repeat the problem while driving around the block. Perhaps I need to take the dealer up my driveway on a hot day because this happens fairly often.

There may be a gauge software TSB but this sucker is getting very hot no doubt about it - to the point that it has dinged at me before and shut the system down. But, it is not just on hot days. The first time it happened was in the middle of winter while pushing deep snow up a long, steep logging road with the throttle wide open. Ding, ding, ding.....needle pegged.

Oddly, I have never had it happen while running up steep grades on the highway - only when going slow. This would suggest to me that the cooling system may be improperly sized or perhaps the pump doesn't flow enough water at slow speeds or perhaps the fan needs to be larger etc... At highway speeds the water pump may be pushing enough water and there may be enough wind hitting the radiator....??

Whatever the problem is, it happens fairly routinely such that I dare not actually pull anywhere near the loads this thing is rated to pull. And as far as I'm concerned there is no excuse for overheating problems. My F350 will go up steep hills with the throttle pegged with a 4,000 lb camper in the bed while pulling a trailer with the AC on full and the needle never budges. No other car I have owned has overheated while being driven up my driveway.

Does anyone know of any after-market kits available to help cool this hotheaded, temperamental mule down a bit?

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

Have any of those having the guage tell them the temperature is high actually verified it with a true guage with the temp numbers printed on the face? Autozone sells a nifty little radiator cap with a thermometer built right in for 14 bucks.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I'm convinced mine really is overheating, but, then again, it is nothing more than conjecture until I have verified it. I'll get one of those nifty devices tomorrow. Good suggestion Nursecosmo.

This just occured to me: Is the water temperature at the cap a good sampling of the temperature where the OEM sending unit is placed? Could it matter whether or not the gauge is in the flow or near the outlet from the engine??

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock

Once the thermostat opens up(after 5min or so of operation) the top of the radiator will be the same or very close to the block temp. The bottom temp will be significantly less.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I wouldn't run that stuff in a CRD or any newer Chyrsler vehicle.We need HOAT coolant(GO5) which is a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology coolant,it still has some silicates in it and our cooling system parts are designed for that silicates.That stuff from the web site has no silicates,just like the other "lifetime" coolants(Dexacool and such),and have been found to cause major damage to cooling system componetes(water pump and such), even if totally flushed,in which a system was designed for a silicate based coolant.It would be better to add the old green stuff to your system since it is silicate based also.Also HD coolants are not for regular vehicles like the CRD since they operate better when subjected to those higher temps all the time and not just sometimes like a regular vehicle see's.In the long run you will damage your cooling system with that stuff.


Easy way to fix a overheating problem------------------------stop pulling those 5000LBS+ loads with the A/C on in 100+ degree weather while in OD(which is when most I have read about have been complaining of anyway in other posts).

I have not had overheating issues yet, but I don't tow. Just for reference last time a LOST guy was having issues with his CRD overheating offroading, so was my friend in his Cherokee. (It was 112+ out). Both vehicles had to cycle the usage of the ac to control engine temp.

Another person has postulated that the removal of the lower air dam on the front bumper makes overheating worse. It apparently acts as an air deflector and creates a low pressure zone that draws air up into the engine bay from beneath. For those of you with ARB's or cut bumpers, maybe that is part of the issue. If so the hood loovers could be part of your answer.

welli took a lazer thermostat to the side of the head of my crd started at 180 f at about 95 ambient temp cranked the air on ran it at about 2500 rpm well at 215f the fan clutch kicked in the temp gauge went over to one line from the H fan clutch running and the temp gauge went back to the middle max temp hit 217 at the exhaust side of the head ..

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2005 crd
2002 mitsubishi l200 2.5 tdi
1987 suzuki samurai

Thanks, Allengua, for the info on fan activation temperatures. I take it that the fan clutch is not activating soon enough, so you overheat a bit.

We all count on good input like yours.

It is also nice if we can read your post clearly and easily.

Just for fun and on pedantic impulse, I have edited your post with punctuation so that everyone can read it more easily. and maybe also convince you to use those keys at the bottom of the keyboard!

"Well, I took a laser thermometer to the side of the head of my CRD. Started at 180 F. At about 95 ambient temp, I cranked the air on, ran it at about 2500 rpm. Well, at 215f the fan clutch kicked in. The temp gauge went over to one line from the H. Fan clutch running and the temp gauge went back to the middle. Max temp hit 217 at the exhaust side of the head".

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06 CRD LTD - Suncoast TC- Shift Kit - Spicer UJ - FRKNLIFT - F37 - Magnaflow - 22.0 City - 24@65MPH - Fumoto F-102 - AUX T Cooler - Tank Lift Pump

So....it's the 3rd of July and the Lithia dealer had my Jeep all day long. I finally went down there and they said they could not duplicate the overheating. I said, "No doo doo, you have to have a long, steep incline---and this is exactly what I said the first three times I had it in for this." So the service dude went to speak to his mechanic. He came back and said the mechanic is going 300 miles outside of town this weekend and he will take the Jeep on a road trip and he'll bring his scanner with. Anyways, I let him take it. I'm forseeing he'll come back with having no problems, but an empty fuel tank that I'll have to refill. I asked the service manager what happens if he cannot fix it this time. He said, hopefully he will. I said, I like that shinny new 2008 cummins mega cab out on the lot....