SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:11 pm

GGK wrote:

Turbo Tim wrote:

I’m more inclined to believe the AFC (Air Flow Control) valve stuck or might be giving you problems. If the EGR could sneak open just a tad, all that would happen is you would lose some performance, not shaking or shuddering. Now the AFC will choke the engine and if it totally closes, it will shut the engine off. If partially closed could cause the shuddering you felt.
Most of the EGR codes (CEL’s) apply to both units, the EGR and AFC, as both are needed together to make the EGR system work.

If the problem returns after you clear the codes, you might want to check the AFC by pulling the air hose off where it connects to the engine, look in there and see if the butterfly moves freely.

Here's the scenario:

I'm stuck down in Mexico with my 2006 CRD (52K miles, no warranty) and a service dealership that doesn't seem to know what they are doing.
About 500kms ago, I experienced the problem for the first time. When I start the engine and take off, there is no problem with power. However, once I slow down for a speed bump or a traffic light and attempt to go once again, the engine losses all power. By this I mean that when I accelerate again the engine cannot seem to do anything but accelerate very slowly. Accelerating between 1500 and 1600 rpm there is a terrible vibration/shudder that sounds like I am going over a speed bump, and once I get to 2000 rpm the engine effectively cuts power and I cannot accelerate any more. On the highway I am limited to 80km/hr.
If I pull off to the side, restart the engine and then step on it the engine takes off right away with lots of power - at least until I slow down for the next stop light.
I took it to the dealership here in Puerto Vallarta and the first thing they told me was that there was a problem with the air flow sensor. After 3 weeks of waiting for the part, they changed it and the problem persisted. I took it back and the next time they told me it was a problem with intake pressure sensor. This was changed with a delay of another 3 weeks, and the problem persists. Currently thery are doing diagnostics, but I don't really think they know what they are up against.

Do you think the AFC could have something to do with this?

Muchas Gracias!

No, it sounds like you have a fuel or fuel delivery issue, like a plugged filter or air in the fuel head. Bleed it and replace the filter.

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:49 pm

Not to bring this thread back to the SEGR, but ... Many, many thanks to all involved in researching, designing, and making this available. I just heard rumor of another successful build and install here in Oregon.

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 5:30 pm

OK guys, a need help!
I've patched the wires together, taped everything back and drove the Jeep to the dealer today. Here's what they are saying:
- yes the code is P1140 and it mean the EGR valve and it will cost you $865 + installation
- I'm at 63k miles, but the 70k warranty DOES NOT cover the valve "because powertrain mean stuff lubricated by oil"

Is that really true? I'm not going to pay $1000 to repair for a 3rd time the same crappy design, and I want the light to go out because I will be selling this truck at one point...

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 5:39 pm

blacksmoke wrote:

OK guys, a need help!
I've patched the wires together, taped everything back and drove the Jeep to the dealer today. Here's what they are saying:
- yes the code is P1140 and it mean the EGR valve and it will cost you $865 + installation
- I'm at 63k miles, but the 70k warranty DOES NOT cover the valve "because powertrain mean stuff lubricated by oil"

Is that really true? I'm not going to pay $1000 to repair for a 3rd time the same crappy design, and I want the light to go out because I will be selling this truck at one point...

If you have a SEGR, why would you consider replacing the EGR valve? Just leave the SEGR installed, it will run better anyway.

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:11 pm

The light came out (coincidence?) when I installed the SEGR, but reconnecting the wires together did not solve the problem.
Therefore if the straight wires cannot extinguish the light, the SEGR cannot do it either, right?

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:48 am

blacksmoke wrote:

The light came out (coincidence?) when I installed the SEGR, but reconnecting the wires together did not solve the problem.
Therefore if the straight wires cannot extinguish the light, the SEGR cannot do it either, right?

If you have a bad EGR valve the SEGR simulates the presence of the valve and the CEL will go out.

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:51 am

That's a good point!
I'm running out of ideas, when I put the SEGR I can hear the relay click, but if I reset the light it will came back right away...
Could you test the SEGR if I ship it to you?

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2008 2:07 pm

blacksmoke wrote:

That's a good point!
I'm running out of ideas, when I put the SEGR I can hear the relay click, but if I reset the light it will came back right away...
Could you test the SEGR if I ship it to you?

Absolutely. PM me for my address, I'd be happy to look at it.

rubicon03 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:52 pm **Posts:** 28

We now have 10,000+ miles on each of the two CRD's that I installed the SEGR's on in early April of this year. I might add 10,000 TROUBLE FREE NO CEL miles!
The only word for their performance is Excellent!
My wife is a Happy Camper,and that is good for me!!
Thanks again LOCO,Tim and UFO !
rubicon03

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

I install my SERG 7k ago but one thing that I notice is that the oil at about 3k (when I replaced it) is as black as muck. I thought that the SERG close the EGR and the oil will stay clean longer than 3k.

I have an Dodge Sprinter and the EGR system works different that the CRD, the oil stay clean well above 5k.

Is the SERG working Normal, is the EGR semi open and the SERG keep the Cell off.

What is the answer. Can UFO,Loco, or Tim can explain what is going on.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

I install my SERG 7k ago but one thing that I notice is that the oil at about 3k (when I replaced it) is as black as muck. I thought that the SERG close the EGR and the oil will stay clean longer than 3k.

I have an Dodge Sprinter and the EGR system works different that the CRD, the oil stay clean well above 5k.

Is the SERG working Normal, is the EGR semi open and the SERG keep the Cell off.

What is the answer. Can UFO,Loco, or Tim can explain what is going on.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:02 pm

Welcome to owning a diesel. If you installed the SEGR and the CEL is off, it is working and the EGR is OFF! (It is now disconnected and cannot function at all).
The oil getting black has to do with burning diesel fuel and little to do with the EGR.
The harder you work a diesel, the faster the oil will turn dark. Yes the EGR is disabled and is no longer putting exhaust back into the intake manifold, but the engine still is running on diesel fuel, and making more power, which is more carbon (soot) in the oil.
Hope that makes sense.

Black05CRDLTD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2008 8:23 pm

Hopefully UFO or someone can help. Installed my SEGR at the beginning of May 08, did get a CEL initially that went off on its own (did not get the code). Everything has been good until about two weeks ago when the CEL came on. CEL will stay on for a few days then go off and come back on again after a few hours or days. This happens even with the bypass plug installed, also after about twenty minutes of driving I seem to get a power loss (maybe some kind of safe mode). I cycled the key and it gave me two codes, P0120 and P0420. I took it to the dealership (bypass plug installed of course) and they said they were getting an excessive EGR flow. So they replaced the EGR valve (under warranty). It did run better than with the old EGR valve so maybe it was defective. I left the bypass plug in just to check that everything was okay, then two days after CEL again, same two codes. This clearly rules out the SEGR but not my installation. I re-soldered all my connections (solder is a little heavy on some connections not sure if this could cause a problem) but no change, is there any wires that get cut, spliced, tapped during the installation that could trigger these codes? For obvious reasons I have to rule out anything that I did before I go back to the dealership.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:47 am

There are two valves - one is the EGR, the other AFC? Did they check the other? On mine, and others, the two often fail together... they certainly are supposed to work together.

Mark
-

Black05CRDLTD wrote:

Hopefully UFO or someone can help. Installed my SEGR at the beginning of May 08, did get a CEL initially that went off on its own (did not get the code). Everything has been good until about two weeks ago when the CEL came on. CEL will stay on for a few days then go off and come back on again after a few hours or days. This happens even with the bypass plug installed, also after about twenty minutes of driving I seem to get a power loss (maybe some kind of safe mode). I cycled the key and it gave me two codes, P0120 and P0420. I took it to the dealership (bypass plug installed of course) and they said they were getting an excessive EGR flow. So they replaced the EGR valve (under warranty). It did run better than with the old EGR valve so maybe it was defective. I left the bypass plug in just to check that everything was okay, then two days after CEL again, same two codes. This clearly rules out the SEGR but not my installation. I re-soldered all my connections (solder is a little heavy on some connections not sure if this could cause a problem) but no change, is there any wires that get cut, spliced, tapped during the installation that could trigger these codes? For obvious reasons I have to rule out anything that I did before I go back to the dealership.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Black05CRDLTD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:53 am

msilbernagel wrote:

There are two valves - one is the EGR, the other AFC? Did they check the other? On mine, and others, the two often fail together... they certainly are supposed to work together.

Mark
-

They only replaced the EGR valve itself. Because I was getting the CEL with or without the SEGR I am wondering if it has anything at all to do with the EGR. The P0120 code is a "throttle pedal position sensor" and the P0420 something to do with the exhaust catalyst. I just wonder if it has anything to do with my installation.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Hello all and thank you in advance for the help. I got my SEGR kit wired in and was fairly confident that everything was going to be ok. I got a CEL with the P0130 code and i checked and its a heated O2 sensor.... Admittedly i didnt do the circuit test before wiring the kit in but i had a good reason. I didnt understand how to do it. I even looked at the alternate test by gmctd. I have the segr wired in and was wondering if there was a way to test everything while it was wired to the vehicle. I gave up on the test prior to splicing because i didnt understand how i could remove the resistor. Any ideas what could be wrong? If someone could please give me the barney style to test the circuit i would really appreciate it. I used to be in the Marine Corps and im used to having everything broken down very simply.

The Jeep runs and i did get 30+mpg on the highway and normal boost and fuel pressure readings.

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:09 am

Black05CRDLTD wrote:

msilbernagel wrote:

There are two valves - one is the EGR, the other AFC? Did they check the other? On mine, and others, the two often fail together... they certainly are supposed to work together.

Mark
-

They only replaced the EGR valve itself. Because I was getting the CEL with or without the SEGR I am wondering if it has anything at all to do with the EGR. The P0120 code is a "throttle pedal position sensor" and the P0420 something to do with the exhaust catalyst. I just wonder if it has anything to do with my installation.

If your bypass plug truly shorts the wires you cut and leaves open the wires you tapped, even if your wiring was wrong, you would not be getting these codes.

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:15 am

aandlwoods wrote:

Hello all and thank you in advance for the help. I got my SEGR kit wired in and was fairly confident that everything was going to be ok. I got a CEL with the P0130 code and i checked and its a heated O2 sensor.... Admittedly i didnt do the circuit test before wiring the kit in but i had a good reason. I didnt understand how to do it. I even looked at the alternate test by gmctd. I have the segr wired in and was wondering if there was a way to test everything while it was wired to the vehicle. I gave up on the test prior to splicing because i didnt understand how i could remove the resistor. Any ideas what could be wrong? If someone could please give me the barney style to test the circuit i would really appreciate it. I used to be in the Marine Corps and im used to having everything broken down very simply.

The Jeep runs and i did get 30+mpg on the highway and normal boost and fuel pressure readings.

As far as I know, the CRD does not have an O2 sensor (but I've been wrong before). If you have a bypass plug, install it and clear the codes to see if they re-appear. If not, I can get you one. Other than that, I don't know of a test that will verify correct operation other than what you've already done. Re-verifying the wiring is always a good starting point; the MAF wires are commonly swapped, with pin 1 going to the ECM instead of to the MAF sensor, like it should.

If you care to send me the box, I can test it electrically, no charge. Just pay postage.

msilbernagel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:45 am

Hmmm.. when mine was running poorly once, I "power braked" at a light or two to keep the engine running. If the ECM sees motion, brake, and a foot on the accelerator, it complains - and I think P0120 is one of the codes. That one could be incidental to whatever else is going on unless it's happening - unprovoked, so to speak.

Mark
-

[/quote]They only replaced the EGR valve itself. Because I was getting the CEL with or without the SEGR I am wondering if it has anything at all to do with the EGR. The P0120 code is a "throttle pedal position sensor" and the P0420 something to do with the exhaust catalyst. I just wonder if it has anything to do with my installation.[/quote]

Black05CRDLTD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:50 am

UFO wrote:

quote]If your bypass plug truly shorts the wires you cut and leaves open the wires you tapped, even if your wiring was wrong, you would not be getting these codes.

If I had poor continuity on one of my connections or the heavy solder I mentioned, would that trigger these codes? Just have to be sure before I head back to the dealership. Don’t want them poking around and finding the SEGR.

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

Who is online